MK3S to MK3S+ and MMU2S to MMU3 upgrade  

RE: MK3S to MK3S+ and MMU2S to MMU3 upgrade

I would upgrade the Mk3s to MK3S+,  and install the basif Mk3S+ Firmware but I would install the MMU Filament sensor instead of the MK3S+ filament sensor. 

I would not use the Filament sensor, whilst I checked that all other MK3S+ Functionality, worked. (this saves disassembling the extruder to move the filament sensor, for the MMU)( the filament sensor for the MMU is a bit stiff, when the MMU is not connected. when the MMU is connected, the Mk3S MMU3 firmware, starts the extruder turning the Bondtech gears, as the filament approaches the extruder  which makes the filament sensor work in combination with the MMU Pulley motor, to enable smooth transition of filament control, from the pulley motor to the extruder motor) 

the Mk3S Filament sensor has a ball bearing, two magnets, a filament sensor lever and an 'Adapter Printer' with a hole for the ball bearing, in the filament path inside the extruder and the filament sensor wiring is shorter for the Mk3S+ setup... 

The MMU3 setup, has an adapter printer without the ball bearing hole so the filament runs straight through. the magnets and filament sensor lever are not required. and the filament sensor moves to the top of the filament sensor chimney, which is part of the MMU3 Kit. 

the Bondtech idler door off the Mk3S+ is replaced by the one which comes with the MMU3 kit. (this one, has a finger that operated the relocates filament sensor. and the filament sensor is actioned, when the filament passes between the Bondtech gear, and the Bondtech Idler. on it's way into the extruder. 

take your time assembling the parts and follow the online assembly guides (Including the User Notes) 

Good Luck, Joan.

RE: MK3S to MK3S+ and MMU2S to MMU3 upgrade

I'd disconnect the mmu completely, upgrade the mk3s to mk3s+ but install the new mmu idler door and new mmu chimney along with the upgrade. Then calibrate it all since you have to replace the pinda with a super pinda you need to redo first layer cal. Then do the mmu upgrade.

RE:

thx for the replys - does this mean I should start with

9B ( https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/9b-mk3s-extruder-mod-kit_420370) or

9C ( https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/9c-mk3s-extruder-upg_333386)?

Sorry for these stupid questions, for me it is not really clear where to start...

RE: MK3S to MK3S+ and MMU2S to MMU3 upgrade

just for the records...

I did the upgrade from MK3S to MK3s+ without any MMU3 parts. Upgrade itself, Z-Calibration, etc. was smooth (only have a problem with filament autoload, but could also a bug - https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/issues/4373 - need to got deeper here...)

Just one question, should there MK3S+ written instead of MK3S on the LCD (Firmware for S and S+ is the same in my eyes)?

Next step is then the MMU3 upgrade...

BR, Andi

RE: MK3S to MK3S+ and MMU2S to MMU3 upgrade

I recently added a Revo hot end to my MK3S. Then I upgraded to MK3S+ and MMU3, I had no previous MMU. I noticed the same thing on the LCD as far as no +. Mine changed to MK3S R when I added the Revo and Revo firmware but no change when upgrading to S+.

I printed all the parts and did the MMU3 and S+ upgrades at the same time. I also replaced all the linear bearings, I figured I might as well, if I'm going to disassemble most of the printer anyway. I ended up using the original MK3S assembly, MMU3 and S to S+ instructions all at the same time to complete the build.

Because I took almost everything apart I ran the XYZ calibration and then first layer calibration when done. When testing the MMU3 I only had to change two settings and one was because of the Revo. Not including the Revo change, the only thing I needed to adjust after following the instructions was the IR sensor needed to be a quarter turn more sensitive for me to not get some loading errors. Since then it has been working great but it's only been a couple of prints so far.

And not that you asked but I think the Revo was a good upgrade as well. I had some problems with the V6 leaking most of the time after a nozzle change. I bought a torque wrench for changing nozzles but never did seem to get it right. Maybe because of cheap replacement nozzles not having a good mating surface?

Good luck with the rest of your build.