RE: I'm Considering getting an MMU2 but...
I do not even own any prusament. So that's not the cause. You do need to use quality filament. Cheap filament will give you nothing but headaches. I live in Germany and always order from 3djake.de I use their "cheap" filament and its perfect. The RMU-mk3 is a MUST. Otherwise just ensure its all built correctly.
RE:
I was at my wits end with the thing and about to throw it in the trash, but instead I took the time to understand how to recover from every failure I was able to tune the unit to the point where it works fairly reliably. I have a completely stock unit and I use Sunlu PLA, Prusament PETG and PLA, and Matter Hackers PVA. I am confident that if I printed more multi-color I could make it run flawlessly and I might even add a mod or two at some point but it works pretty good for me in the stock config at this point. I will get maybe 3-4 load failures requiring manual intervention during a 48 hour 5 color print. Some people might consider that bad I guess, but to me the product is well worth the extra trouble. The failures probably add 8-12 hours to the print depending on when they happen so that is a pain in a production shop I guess, but for a hobbyist its not a big deal, and I know some of the people on the forum have mastered the unit and get flawless performance with a few mods.
RE: I'm Considering getting an MMU2 but...
I purchased the MMU2S one month ago, just after few weeks the purchase of the i3. Building was nice and I must admit I was afraid reading all forums about MMU failures.
After 1 month and several prints..I can say I'm very impressionne, no failure. 2-3 or 5 colors, simple and complex prints.
I'm using several brands of filaments, Amazon, Arianeplast, Prusa, some end of Chinese filaments, no issue.
I didn't tune the filament tips in slicer, it works out from the box.
So I can thanks Prusa with this part of machinery bringing colors in our prints!
RE: I'm Considering getting an MMU2 but...
Oh I hope you have not bought that P3P...I call it the brick. Some folks have success but most do not and give up. 800 dollars of pure waste. The support and engineering staff offer no meaningful insight and the forums on Mosaic are littered with unanswered questions. It is not even something you can tinker with. They have created a walled garden....of ugly little rocks.
RE: I'm Considering getting an MMU2 but...
Yeah, I have one of them 🤬
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...
RE: I'm Considering getting an MMU2 but...
So, I can't get it to even interface with my Mini+ extruder. Just sits there. When I hook it up to my CR6 SE it gets to around 40% and suddenly loses "ping" and just stops. Wondering if you might share you success or approaches? Their support is some of the worst and they just keep offering the same stuff again and again.
RE: I'm Considering getting an MMU2 but...
Different people have different experiences. The MMU2S turned out to be something I did not care to work with. Then I got a Mosaic Palette 3 and I love it. Beyond user error I have had very few issues with it. It just works.
Mk3S+,SL1S
RE: I'm Considering getting an MMU2 but...
Do you happen to be using it with a mini, perhaps? I would just love to get it working with that machine
RE: I'm Considering getting an MMU2 but...
I'm trying to use P3 with a Mk3S+. First stab ended up with filament coming out of all sorts of orifices on the Palette... Mosaic support was useless, to put it politely. I ended up fixing it by reseating the small brass fittings inside the machine. But this out-of-the-box experience was so sobering it took me weeks to get back to it. I need my machines to print, not to tinker with. The next time it started printing okay but then I ran into splicing issues. Just using standard overture pla, splices kept breaking. Okay, I get the point of splice tuning but I can't really tune everything for every combination of filaments I want to use. If it's so sensitive it feels fatally flawed to me. Anywho, it's back on the back burner again because, print, not tinker, you know. If I wanted to tinker, I might as well have stuck with the MMU, plenty to tinker there. And don't get me started on their website. I don't know what the person managing it consumes each day but it's the worst organized I've seen in a long time. Well, the words Organized and Palette support site shouldn't really be used in the same sentence....
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...
RE: I'm Considering getting an MMU2 but...
So, my issue is outside of the box. I think I have a handle on that. It is the firmware and slicer. With my CR-6 SE (CE Firmware) i can make the thing work and communicate. However, it will consistently give an error 134 which is a splice break. However, there are no breaks and when I pull the filament and measure I am well within tolerances. I shared this info with Mosaic, but got no where with them. They ask me to change splice setting but no rhyme or reasoning when I tell them my numbers they say they look good and then act like they addressed my issue. I have done the latest firmware update and hoped to get it to work with the Prusa Mini. It does communicate and get it to heat up, but it wants to use and freezes at the "smart loading". I have got nothing back from them on this. I don't understand a box that they don't even have or provide the ability to export diagnostic capability for. Ugh. So, I am trying to find someone using the P3P/Brick with the mini and see what they are experiencing.
RE: I'm Considering getting an MMU2 but...
I have not tried Mosaic support, but I have found the Mosaic Palette page on Facebook to be helpful. There are Mosaic staff people that respond, and send people replacements for faulty parts at no charge, etc.
Mk3S+,SL1S
RE: I'm Considering getting an MMU2 but...
Thanks. I will try there. I don't think the box itself is the issue. It seems that it is very finicky about the machine and firmware. They are very overbroad in what they say it works with but in talking with people there seems to be more narrow set of machines. Really looking to figure out how to get it to work with my mini. Thanks for your recommendation.
RE: I'm Considering getting an MMU2 but...
The Palette 3 Pro actually works really well but the documentation isn't up to the level that it needs to be for users to be successful. Specifically there isn't enough information on what the settings really do.
Feel free to send me a PM if you need help getting your Mini working with the P3/P3P. I am also working on a guide that goes over how to get smart load working right, but is going to take a more few days to get done.
RE: I'm Considering getting an MMU2 but...
I really appreciate the help.
Here is what I was told from the Mosaic folks, but have not had a chance to try. I have a bond tech IFS extruder as a point of reference.
1) Turn off the filament sensor on the mini
2) Remove the short amount of PTFE tubing that comes out the back of the extruder.
3) Skip smart load
4) Start loading as directed.
I don't believe my machine was letting me skip the smart load but again I am dealing with some problems with a Revo Micro upgrade that I want to work through first. Your expertise and guide are very much welcome.
Regards, Cort
RE: I'm Considering getting an MMU2 but...
Good luck with the upgrade. I scribbled down a few thoughts. below.
1) Turn off the filament sensor on the mini - The filament sensor needs to be removed
2) Remove the short amount of PTFE tubing that comes out the back of the extruder. - I actually left the tube in place and entered a custom output tube length that included the added length of the printer's input tube. With the short output tube and stock input tube, the custom length for my printer is 76cm. Leaving the tube in has the advantage of not having to use an extruder clip and you don't need to put the tube back in if you want to do a single color print. The output tube will move right up against the printer's input tube and maybe move back a little with retractions. But bottom line there isn't any place that it can go. As long as the input for your extruder is at a similar angle for your printer, it should work the same way.
3) Skip smart load - Easier said than done and not really necessary. With the long length of the filament path from the extruder to the hot end, the palette 3 will probably give you a warning that it isn't detecting filament movement. If you click ok and smartload again, the smartload process starts moving the filament again. I do double check that the extruder gear isn't turning before hitting smartload again just incase there is a jam.
4) Start loading as directed. - Once you get through smart load, then everything else works as expected.
Note: The manual load is done by moving the extruder motor from the Mini's menu: Settings | Move Axis | Move E. You need to slowly jog the extruder motor until the remaining distance reaches zero. It is really easy to go too far which will cause the palette and the printer to get out of sync.
Keep us posted with your progress.
Regards,
Bruce K7ZPJ
I really appreciate the help.
Here is what I was told from the Mosaic folks, but have not had a chance to try. I have a bond tech IFS extruder as a point of reference.
1) Turn off the filament sensor on the mini
2) Remove the short amount of PTFE tubing that comes out the back of the extruder.
3) Skip smart load
4) Start loading as directed.
I don't believe my machine was letting me skip the smart load but again I am dealing with some problems with a Revo Micro upgrade that I want to work through first. Your expertise and guide are very much welcome.
Regards, Cort
RE: I'm Considering getting an MMU2 but...
Oh, this is simply amazing! This is precisely the type of detail I was looking for.
Why do I need to remove the filament sensor? I ask because this is integrated into the Bondtech IFS integrated extruder so it is not a matter of just decoupling but actually taking it apart.
I concur and will put the ptfe back in. I like your approach using a custom length. Very nice.
I will give all of this a try in the very near future. Need to make a decision on keeping the E3D revo in the mini. E3D says in their directions you don't need a PID but the diagnostics they give you say do a PID because of the new heater core configuration. I really do dislike when a printer is down.
Thanks again for your help. This kind of detailed instruction is greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Cort
RE: I'm Considering getting an MMU2 but...
You won't need to remove the filament since it is in the extruder and not on the input tube.
Removing the external filament sensor made running without the guide tube clip a work a little better and inserting the filament easier.
Good luck in getting the printer back up.
Bruce
Mosaic P3 issue.
After enjoying it for 2 months, my Mosaic Palette 3 has recently developed a very weird behavior that make it unusable. I spent time really dialing in the splice tuning. I have done about 15 fairly intricate prints successfully. I am familiar with the operation of the device. I have verified that the correct splice settings are in the g-code. Now when I start a print, the very first splice is not the same as what I got splice tuning. I have tried to troubleshoot by stopping the print before inserting the filament into the print head so I know it is not anything happening in the print head. I pull out the first splice from starting a print. The splice in very narrow and easy to bend in one spot and then next to that it is way too thick to go through a PTFE tube. It won't feed into the hot end. Mosaic doesn't seem to really do customer service. They have a Facebook group and the admins seem to be Mosaic staff and give help. I posted my issue there and the admin asked some questions and ask for more pictures. Then nothing. Also another user commented that they had the same issue but hadn't had time to look into it.
Has anyone here had the same issue and found a fix? I can't imagine what could cause this. If it was mechanical, the problem would happen also in the splice tuning process. It would seem to be an issue with FW is my best guess. I have updated to the most recent FW and the same thing happens.
Mk3S+,SL1S
RE: I'm Considering getting an MMU2 but...
After enjoying it for 2 months, my Mosaic Palette 3 has recently developed a very weird behavior that make it unusable. I spent time really dialing in the splice tuning. I have done about 15 fairly intricate prints successfully. I am familiar with the operation of the device. I have verified that the correct splice settings are in the g-code. Now when I start a print, the very first splice is not the same as what I got splice tuning. I have tried to troubleshoot by stopping the print before inserting the filament into the print head so I know it is not anything happening in the print head. I pull out the first splice from starting a print. The splice in very narrow and easy to bend in one spot and then next to that it is way too thick to go through a PTFE tube. It won't feed into the hot end. Mosaic doesn't seem to really do customer service. They have a Facebook group and the admins seem to be Mosaic staff and give help. I posted my issue there and the admin asked some questions and ask for more pictures. Then nothing. Also another user commented that they had the same issue but hadn't had time to look into it.
Has anyone here had the same issue and found a fix? I can't imagine what could cause this. If it was mechanical, the problem would happen also in the splice tuning process. It would seem to be an issue with FW is my best guess. I have updated to the most recent FW and the same thing happens.
Yes, I have experienced inconsistent splices / operation. My issues started when I upgraded to the 22.03.29.0 firmware. I went back to alt-22.02.09.0 and did a factory reset on it and started out with new calibration prints. This seemed to get it working again. I upgraded to 22.04.19.0 when it became available and it is working without any issues. If you go this route make sure you record the values for Loading Offset, Historical Modifier, and output tube. If you find it fixes the splice problem then you can use the old historical modifier so you don't lose all of the print statistics that were collected.
Some questions:
What slicer are you using Canvas or Prusa Slicer / P2PP ?
What firmware are you using: 22.03.29.0 or 22.04.19.0 ?
Can you post the link to your posting in the Palette Users group on FB or send me a PM with the link ? (I don't want to have to post all of the pictures again. )
Have you made any changes; Filament, settings ???
Don't give up. The P3 is a bit fiddly, but is really nice when it is working well.
Regards,
Bruce
RE:
Many thanks! Using P2PP. I was using alt-22.02.09.0 when this issue started and then I upgraded to v22.04.19.0 to see if that would fix it and it didn't. I did not do a factory reset or run the calibration print. I am using the same filament, Filamentum PLA and the same colors as I have used successfully before the issue showed up. I won't have time to try this for a day or two, but I will give it a shot when I can.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/130130450956865/user/100000721455114
After enjoying it for 2 months, my Mosaic Palette 3 has recently developed a very weird behavior that make it unusable. I spent time really dialing in the splice tuning. I have done about 15 fairly intricate prints successfully. I am familiar with the operation of the device. I have verified that the correct splice settings are in the g-code. Now when I start a print, the very first splice is not the same as what I got splice tuning. I have tried to troubleshoot by stopping the print before inserting the filament into the print head so I know it is not anything happening in the print head. I pull out the first splice from starting a print. The splice in very narrow and easy to bend in one spot and then next to that it is way too thick to go through a PTFE tube. It won't feed into the hot end. Mosaic doesn't seem to really do customer service. They have a Facebook group and the admins seem to be Mosaic staff and give help. I posted my issue there and the admin asked some questions and ask for more pictures. Then nothing. Also another user commented that they had the same issue but hadn't had time to look into it.
Has anyone here had the same issue and found a fix? I can't imagine what could cause this. If it was mechanical, the problem would happen also in the splice tuning process. It would seem to be an issue with FW is my best guess. I have updated to the most recent FW and the same thing happens.
Yes, I have experienced inconsistent splices / operation. My issues started when I upgraded to the 22.03.29.0 firmware. I went back to alt-22.02.09.0 and did a factory reset on it and started out with new calibration prints. This seemed to get it working again. I upgraded to 22.04.19.0 when it became available and it is working without any issues. If you go this route make sure you record the values for Loading Offset, Historical Modifier, and output tube. If you find it fixes the splice problem then you can use the old historical modifier so you don't lose all of the print statistics that were collected.
Some questions:
What slicer are you using Canvas or Prusa Slicer / P2PP ?
What firmware are you using: 22.03.29.0 or 22.04.19.0 ?
Can you post the link to your posting in the Palette Users group on FB or send me a PM with the link ? (I don't want to have to post all of the pictures again. )
Have you made any changes; Filament, settings ???
Don't give up. The P3 is a bit fiddly, but is really nice when it is working well.
Regards,
Bruce
Mk3S+,SL1S