https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/still-zero-successful-prints/ Prusa3D Forum Discussion Board en-US Sat, 16 May 2026 17:09:34 +0000 wpForo 60 https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/still-zero-successful-prints/paged/7/#post-128782 Thu, 14 Feb 2019 12:20:29 +0000

]]> Assembly and first prints troubleshooting Raavhimself https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/still-zero-successful-prints/paged/7/#post-128782 https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/still-zero-successful-prints/paged/7/#post-128213 Mon, 11 Feb 2019 11:06:09 +0000 CGTrader rules

]]> Assembly and first prints troubleshooting Raavhimself https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/still-zero-successful-prints/paged/7/#post-128213 https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/still-zero-successful-prints/paged/7/#post-128140 Sun, 10 Feb 2019 21:23:45 +0000 You say you are trying to help people but all I see is you trying to discourage people from trying something new that does solve the MMU2 issues. Together with the alternative firmware they solve them. Tip and Path. If not all, at least enough to enjoy a reliable machine. An obvious improvement to the MK3

I still do not understand exactly what you wanted to discuss on a technical level. The design is there for all of you to see and it is not that difficult to understand. I am telling you that it works, and soon more people will tell you so. So what is it that you want to discuss about it on a technical level? It's just a gate, for godsake, and everybody knows what a gate does, but I'm sorry. I'll have as many technical discussions about the gate as you want. I've worked enough hours with it to be able to tell you how it performs exactly in nearly every situation.

License may not be important for you, but it is for me. And it's not the money, but something I'd call ethics, and that includes not selling something that doesn´t work as if it did. I have seen you people jumping to the neck of a firmware developer because he didn't want to open his code so I can see how this game is played.

People is usually not fond of reading the readme PDFs so I'll repeat it here: ANYBODY THAT WANTS TO FIX THEIR MACHINES WITH THEFROG CAN HAVE ITS DESIGN DONATING TWO DOLLARS TO THEIR PREFERRED CHARITY: GreenPeace, UNICEF, MSF, etc. They'll also have to spend 7€ in parts, and use around 110 g of PET and 2 g of TPU printing the parts in only one day]]> Assembly and first prints troubleshooting Raavhimself https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/still-zero-successful-prints/paged/7/#post-128140 https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/still-zero-successful-prints/paged/7/#post-128130 Sun, 10 Feb 2019 20:16:54 +0000 Sorry if my posts sound aggressive, it wasn't intended.
There are no magic numbers. The issues reported so far in this forum are various. Beside the quality/RMA issues, You can separate them in filament path issues and filament tip issues. The filament path issues can be solved in stock by drilling out holes, chamfer the corner, make sure PTFE tubes are correct size and not squished, configure the tube length. The filament tip issues can be solved in stock by the slicer settings in software. It looks like the most recent MMU2 shipments are getting better and the current firmwares/Slic3r settings allows more people to print successful out of the box.

But it's also perfectly fine to use any other available solutions for this issues. If you reach a dead end, you start trying things which might work for you or give up/wait for official update/upgrade. This is a nature of open source providing various solutions for the same problem. My intention was to understand what TheFrog is doing and discuss it on a technical level. As it doesn't solve "all issues"TM it might be helpful for other people to understand the advantages but also the disadvantages.

I personally don't care if you sell it or make it OpenSource. It's your personal decision. The concerns I raised are technical and based on my personal experience with my MMU2 unit with various filament temperatures and types. As you're the main (and only?) developer I hoped to discuss those cases in depth and it has nothing to do with licensing.]]> Assembly and first prints troubleshooting Nikolai https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/still-zero-successful-prints/paged/7/#post-128130 https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/still-zero-successful-prints/paged/6/#post-128096 Sun, 10 Feb 2019 15:43:16 +0000 So your best advice for the people is to keep on tunning their settings until they get to this magical nirvana point where all the prints come out perfect, and by chance this is what it has happened to me...
I passed the 8 hour barrier a month and a half ago. I went public when I was confident with a 40 hour print,
I can detect the aggressiveness in your responses to my posts since I published the second comic strip, so don't try to sell me air now
You are trying to defend a poorly engineered machine, and I have the feeling that if I had left my design with a CC license you would be more open minded, wouldn't you?]]> Assembly and first prints troubleshooting Raavhimself https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/still-zero-successful-prints/paged/6/#post-128096 https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/still-zero-successful-prints/paged/6/#post-128094 Sun, 10 Feb 2019 15:21:40 +0000 ...
Worse than you can imagine!!! I don't know how long are your prints. It looks like 40 hours is not long enough for you. Well I am now doing a 47 hour print. Will that be enough? Surely not for you. Based on my experience print time doesn't really matter after 8 hours / 200 tool changes. Once everything is running smooth, you could also print a week. That's why I didn't mentioned that.
You should know that you are for sure one of the few humans that has made the MMU2 work reliably. Most of us are just as dumb as jltx and have wasted months working with the MMU2 without success. Look at me, I had to change the machine's firmware and hardware to get a reliable device, but you are trying to convince us that your machine is completely reliable as it came from stock... This was your way and perfectly legit. I went a different route and also documented it here. If you check my other MMU posts, there were things I had to adjust but except of the spool holders every other part is still stock. Sharing my thoughts, helping people and discussing about my hobby, that's the only reason why I'm here.
My experience, and that of many others contradict your words.
I don't want you to try the frog. I don't need it, but I think you are trying to mislead people into not fixing their machines, and I don't like that How that? By describing two issues which are present with stock MMU2 solution and are still present with your solution, I'm just saying there is no perfect "MMU solution"TM and there are still cases where it will fail. I can repeat myself: "But if someone gave up or doesn't know how to proceed, your solution might be an option."

PS: Maybe you might rethink the strategy how you answer the support questions to your product.]]> Assembly and first prints troubleshooting Nikolai https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/still-zero-successful-prints/paged/6/#post-128094 https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/still-zero-successful-prints/paged/6/#post-128070 Sun, 10 Feb 2019 10:55:14 +0000 Completely hands off unassisted print
Is this bad enough or you can imagine it worse?

]]> Assembly and first prints troubleshooting Raavhimself https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/still-zero-successful-prints/paged/6/#post-128070 https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/still-zero-successful-prints/paged/6/#post-128066 Sun, 10 Feb 2019 10:16:11 +0000 That was a 1300 filament change part.
I think that when the tail is cut,if if is connected to the hotend pit , it ends up there. There's nowhere else to go. If the tail is not connected to the hot end, when it's cut (more ripped than cut, in fact), the best thing is that the piece falls to the iddler area where it does no harm. If it ends in the fronttrap area it can trigger a false sensor reading and pause the machine. One time it happened (in about 500 hours so far) that a glob got struck in the openning of the PTFE tube beyond the bondtech gears. The firmware of the Zerobeast paused the machine and protected the print.

2- Long Strings. There are no long strings with TheFrog. That simple.
I once found a ball of fluff dragged by the tip from the front trap that cheated the FINDA. Again, the firmware protected the print. Thanks for the images. It looks even worse then I thought. This small particles can do a lot of damage around the idler, gears and the sensor.
Regarding the long strings it's not a matter of hardware. It depends on the filament and temperature and will occur. Maybe not for you but for other people as we have seen different filament tips from different people with the same settings.
The fluff is usually generated by the tiny middle size strings. But the long strings can generate in your setup blocked extruder. I've tested couple different filament types with different settings just to see how the tips might look like and how they affect different parts. Two kind of tips are the worst.
1. The fluffs generated by tiny hairs are forming a blob. They can block any part of the filament path. In the stock setup they prefer to stay either in the FINDA area or around the bond tech gears.
2. Really long strings (>10mm). In the stock setup they're blocking the orange PTFE tube.
Both issues can be either catched by the firmware or cleaned up easily by the operator in the stock setup. But they can also be missed by the stock firmware and generate missed layers. For this cases I don't see it resolved by "TheFrog".

Anyway I'm glad you found a solution for you and can enjoy the MMU2 prints. This is actually the most important thing everybody is trying to achieve. I prefer stock firmware and stock hardware. The issue with the tips I was able to solve with proper configuration for the filament I use. But if someone gave up or doesn't know how to proceed, your solution might be an option. Hahahahahahaha :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
The real only thing worse than I can imagine is you being so partisan with this brand!!! Anyone of the people who is reading your posts thinks they know who is filling your wallet. I do
Worse than you can imagine!!! I don't know how long are your prints. It looks like 40 hours is not long enough for you. Well I am now doing a 47 hour print. Will that be enough? Surely not for you.
You should know that you are for sure one of the few humans that has made the MMU2 work reliably. Most of us are just as dumb as jltx and have wasted months working with the MMU2 without success. Look at me, I had to change the machine's firmware and hardware to get a reliable device, but you are trying to convince us that your machine is completely reliable as it came from stock...
My experience, and that of many others contradict your words.
I don't want you to try the frog. I don't need it, but I think you are trying to mislead people into not fixing their machines, and I don't like that]]> Assembly and first prints troubleshooting Raavhimself https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/still-zero-successful-prints/paged/6/#post-128066 https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/still-zero-successful-prints/paged/6/#post-128052 Sun, 10 Feb 2019 05:46:02 +0000 Well, I've owned the MMU2 for 4 months now and have precisely 1 successful print. A small one. The next print I tried with the same settings failed quickly and it appeared to be from debris from the one successful print. So really that good print was probably destined to fail if it had been much bigger. 4 months of failures. I have a large pile of failed prints. I could almost make a new spool from all the filament ends I've had to cut.

I am now trying to print a two color print using two Prusa PLA (I've only been using PLA in MMU). I can get a setting that one likes but not the other. Meaning, one short tail and one long stringy one. I change settings and it reverses. No sweet spot found. Now 1.04 firmware has really made it unreliable. So sad.]]> Assembly and first prints troubleshooting JLTX https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/still-zero-successful-prints/paged/6/#post-128052 https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/still-zero-successful-prints/paged/6/#post-128045 Sun, 10 Feb 2019 03:56:28 +0000 That was a 1300 filament change part.
I think that when the tail is cut,if if is connected to the hotend pit , it ends up there. There's nowhere else to go. If the tail is not connected to the hot end, when it's cut (more ripped than cut, in fact), the best thing is that the piece falls to the iddler area where it does no harm. If it ends in the fronttrap area it can trigger a false sensor reading and pause the machine. One time it happened (in about 500 hours so far) that a glob got struck in the openning of the PTFE tube beyond the bondtech gears. The firmware of the Zerobeast paused the machine and protected the print.

2- Long Strings. There are no long strings with TheFrog. That simple.
I once found a ball of fluff dragged by the tip from the front trap that cheated the FINDA. Again, the firmware protected the print. Thanks for the images. It looks even worse then I thought. This small particles can do a lot of damage around the idler, gears and the sensor.
Regarding the long strings it's not a matter of hardware. It depends on the filament and temperature and will occur. Maybe not for you but for other people as we have seen different filament tips from different people with the same settings.
The fluff is usually generated by the tiny middle size strings. But the long strings can generate in your setup blocked extruder. I've tested couple different filament types with different settings just to see how the tips might look like and how they affect different parts. Two kind of tips are the worst.
1. The fluffs generated by tiny hairs are forming a blob. They can block any part of the filament path. In the stock setup they prefer to stay either in the FINDA area or around the bond tech gears.
2. Really long strings (>10mm). In the stock setup they're blocking the orange PTFE tube.
Both issues can be either catched by the firmware or cleaned up easily by the operator in the stock setup. But they can also be missed by the stock firmware and generate missed layers. For this cases I don't see it resolved by "TheFrog".

Anyway I'm glad you found a solution for you and can enjoy the MMU2 prints. This is actually the most important thing everybody is trying to achieve. I prefer stock firmware and stock hardware. The issue with the tips I was able to solve with proper configuration for the filament I use. But if someone gave up or doesn't know how to proceed, your solution might be an option.]]> Assembly and first prints troubleshooting Nikolai https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/still-zero-successful-prints/paged/6/#post-128045