If you are using a Ruby Tipped Nozzle with your MMU, read this!!  

If you are using a Ruby Tipped Nozzle with your MMU, read this!!

I just completed a 21hr print with no jamming or stringing problems!

The issue was the Ruby Tipped Nozzle I was using, if you watch this video ( ) that was sent to me from Waseem Zakia on Facebook, you will see that the Ruby has a flat surface on the top of it, you're never going to pull a good tip off of that no matter what you set for Ramming Settings in Slic3r.

I swapped out my Ruby Nozzle for the stock Brass Nozzle, and all of my troubles went away instantly! And I'm using the stock Generic PLA settings in Slic3r except for the "Loading Speed at Start" and "Loading Speed Settings", I have them set to 19mm/s, and 21mm/s. The filament will grind in the MMU during loading if left at the default settings.

I printed the Kenny model using Hatchbox PLA, and eSun PLA+. The only thing that disappointed me with this print was that I didn't have enough Purging Volume set for the Hatchbox Black, and it bled into the Orange.

So again, if your having problems with your MMU2, and have a Ruby Nozzle, swap it out for either a Brass one, or a Hardened Steel on, those nozzles will have a taper inside that feeds to the nozzle tip, and you will get a better formed filament tip.

I hope this helps, myself, well I'm happy to have a working MMU2!!!

Note: In the photo of Kenny, it looks like there is a skipped layer in the brown area of his hood, it's not a skipped layer, it's not even noticeable in person. cameras always seem to find all the imperfections of a print and make them bigger! 🙄

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