Which are the best build surfaces for PETG?  

RE: Which are the best build surfaces for PETG?

@prusanewuser

You wouldn't be happy with one which is "too thick," because then it becomes difficult to flex, thereby defeating the point of it.  Maybe someone has metrics on what a good thickness range is?  Not sure if the range might vary depending on size, but maybe.  It might also vary dependingo n what the build surface itself is, because the thicker that is the more the entire assembly becomes difficult to flex as well.

RE: Which are the best build surfaces for PETG?

Yesterday I applied Windex (the kind with ammonia) to the geckotek and then ran a large print overnight.  It still stuck during printing, but it released much easier after cooldown, so I'll be doing more of that going forward.  😀 

RE: Which are the best build surfaces for PETG?

@dimprov

Glad it worked for you.  PETG can surely adhere too much.  

RE: Which are the best build surfaces for PETG?

@prusanewuser

If you let blank steel rub against your hotbed, it will damage it.

RE: Which are the best build surfaces for PETG?

Interestingly, the PETG stuck well enough to the GeckoTec that the print's PETG shrinkage delaminated the edges of the BuildTak magnetic base from the aluminum substrate (on the printer I'm trialing this on) rather than lose adhesion between the GeckoTec and PETG print.

RE: Which are the best build surfaces for PETG?

Posted by: @dimprov

Interestingly, the PETG stuck well enough to the GeckoTec that the print's PETG shrinkage delaminated the edges of the BuildTak magnetic base from the aluminum substrate (on the printer I'm trialing this on) rather than lose adhesion between the GeckoTec and PETG print.

As you can probably tell from the quote, the BuildTak Flexplate system was a complete disaster for me.  After I determined that BuildTak itself would need to be replaced, I thought, "Well, at least I can use the Flexplate and the magnetic base."  But now it's clear that the magnetic base loses its grip at around 80C and warps significantly, pulling away from the aluminum base when printing PETG.

It makes me appreciate the Prusa design all the more!  I've never had that happen to me on my Prusa I3 MK3. 

Are there any vendors out there with good magnetic bases for non-Prusa printers?

RE: Which are the best build surfaces for PETG?

I suppose I could maybe solve the problem by affixing n52 neodymium magnets underneath the aluminum support structure, which would maybe pull down on the steel flexplate strongly enough to possibly overcome the lousy glue adhesion underpinning the Buildtak magnetic surface.  Seems like it's worth a try....  I've already tried taping it down with Kapton tape, but that didn't work.

RE: Which are the best build surfaces for PETG?

@dimprov

BIQU is decent.  

RE: Which are the best build surfaces for PETG?

Hi, is it easy to remove a PEI and the glue from the smooth sheet while leaving a clean, flat remaining surface?

RE: Which are the best build surfaces for PETG?

Posted by: @prusanewuser

Hi, is it easy to remove a PEI and the glue from the smooth sheet while leaving a clean, flat remaining surface?

 

Maybe others know of an easy way, but none that I know of.  It's brittle and very well adhered.

RE: Which are the best build surfaces for PETG?

@prusanewuser

I spent half a day working on removing two PEI foils. Material, effort and new foils... unprofitable in my opinion.
I don't do it anymore and rather buy a new printing plate.

https://help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/replacing-the-pei-sheet-on-the-mk2-s_23528

RE: Which are the best build surfaces for PETG?

@karl-herbert

That is 100% correct in my opinion.  I use a plate will it will not work anymore then set it aside.  After that, I use it for tests only.  

RE: Which are the best build surfaces for PETG?

I would agree, even if your doing it for a hobby its not worth it.

RE: Which are the best build surfaces for PETG?

Posted by: @karl-herbert

[...] I spent half a day working on removing two PEI foils. Material, effort and new foils... unprofitable in my opinion.

I don't do it anymore and rather buy a new printing plate.

We know how this ends. You set the old plate aside. You don't need it, but it's too valuable to just throw away. So it sits there, catching the light whenever you come near it. When you turn out the light, you hear it. Faint whispering. "All I need is a little PEI." You turn on the light and it's laying on your desk. It looks inexplicably new and unused. 

This isn't a hobby. It's an obsession.

Did you hear that?

RE: Which are the best build surfaces for PETG?

BS, throw that plate away if the other side is good use it, if not its trash. 100% for sure no reuse what so ever for 40$ bucks to try and use it again  is crazy it's in the trash pile. keeping in mind I do this for a living its not a Hobby.

RE: Which are the best build surfaces for PETG?

I'm sure he was speaking in jest.  I totally get his sense of humor.  Pretty funny!

RE: Which are the best build surfaces for PETG?

In all seriousness, even if you don't plan on reapplying PEI, an old steel sheet can be handy for experimentation. I had some fun using textured vinyl with PLA, and I've seen some other very clever projects. If nothing else, slap some blue tape over the damaged side and use it for calibrating new hotend distances and other odd purposes.

RE: Which are the best build surfaces for PETG?

@bobstro

Or even keep it for when you plan to use new filaments that might stick too much.  

RE: Which are the best build surfaces for PETG?

@swiss_cheese

There are more than one of us doing this to try to make money and there no reason not to keep it around to experiment with when you printing that one filament that might stick too much.  I have never had a damaged bed that was 100% damaged.  There has to some useable real estate.  

RE: Which are the best build surfaces for PETG?

From the standpoint of enabling future removal, what might conceivably work is pasting a PEI sticker over some other kind of sticker, like a buildtac or a GeckoTek.  Though I pretty much hate buildtac, at least it comes off spring steel without too much difficulty using a heat gun.  I'm guessing GeckoTek will be similar.  

Or maybe just paste a new PEI sticker over an old one, up to some number of layers?  Maybe you could fill in the divots with something before the pasting so you'd still get a level surface.