Titanium vs bimetal heatbreak
Hi everybody! Recently I’ve been thinking about getting a better heatbreak for my MK3S+ cause I want to print ASA and I’ve had problems with the prusa original one
I’ve done a little research and there are very different opinions so I still don’t have clear whether I should get a bimetal or a titanium one or should I just stick to the stainless steel basic one.
Any help will be appreciated and also if you have any tips for printing ASA those will be great to!
Simón
I'm learning and I can make mistakes or ask dumb questions, sorry about that
RE: Titanium vs bimetal heatbreak
Got my printer in March. Have not had any issues printing with ASA other than some calibration settings. Stock head. I do run my printer in an enclosure to keep the temperature stable. I have had more success with ASA than PETG.
As for heatbreaks. I have read about how the hot end works since mine broke recently. Ideally, you want to keep as much heat away from the heat sink as possible. Stainless steel is not bad. Titanium is better. Not sure about the bi-metal. Copper is a great heat conductor so I could see it transferring heat to the heat sink easier. I bet there are some youtube videos on this to explain/sell you on the "best" one. I have read that the only reason to really change the heat break is for long, high temp prints. I have done a 12+ hour print with ASA on my printer.
RE: Titanium vs bimetal heatbreak
@robin_13 thanks for your reply!
When I first bought the printer I was told to change the heatbreak to a petfe lined one, and during the dissembling I broke the thread of the original, and while printing high temperature PETG the petfe tube melted and created a jam😅 I knew that but I decided to push as far away that one, so now that it has broken I want to change it for a better one, that’s what I’ve understand of alllll the posts about heatbreak.
stock one- It’s ok without an enclosure for most materials, the problem is with high temp materials and long prints in an enclosure can cause heat creep.
titanium- is a very good option, great for enclosures but outside them you can have problems. It has lower melt zone so you need to be careful with retractions because if they are set too high or even not that high they can cause jams. For printing high temp materials you don’t have problems, only with PLA.
bimetal- Stephan (CNCKitchen) did a research and stated that they are very good, is a mixture of titanium and copper. In the heater block it has a higher Melt zone so you don’t need to be so careful with reactions when it reaches the “middle” (between heater block and the other part(now I don’t remember it’s name)) it’s titanium so it dissipates the heat perfectly. I think I’m gonna change to bimetal and give it a try.
I’m going to changue the nozzle too because it was clogged with the tube😅
I want to go all big way, I I’ve though about buying a tungsten carbide one from 3d engineering one so it’s my second and last nozzle.
if I’ve made any mistake please correct me. If any one has an opinion about this topic it would be greatly accepted
thanks,
Simón
I'm learning and I can make mistakes or ask dumb questions, sorry about that
RE: Titanium vs bimetal heatbreak
I am still learning myself and as I am finding out, there is much, much more to 3D printing than I thought.
RE: Titanium vs bimetal heatbreak
True I started 3d printing in march as you and I thought it was going to be easier and very simple, it’s a whole world, and so many opinions, things that can go wrong, and that you can learn about . I’ve learnt about engineering, science and most important about English and it’s importance in 3d printing. As an Spanish person it’s impossible to find nothing in Spanish so…😅 it’s a must have a good level of English!
thank for your time anyway 😊
I'm learning and I can make mistakes or ask dumb questions, sorry about that