RE: Revo Six on MK3S+ has extra stringing and oozing
I try the settings from RetromanIE but for me it doesn't work well.
Is there perhaps any news on the subject or possibly other successful solutions.
I could not find any setting that works stable for PETG.
I tried the Prusa Test tool for linear advance, but all the lines look exactly the same?
RE: Revo Six on MK3S+ has extra stringing and oozing
My current MK3S+ extruder settings that work very well on the Revo(0.4mm) are below:-
Retraction: 0.6mm
Lift Z: 0.2mm
Retraction Speed: 60mm/s
Detraction speed: 60mm/s
Minimum travel after retraction: 1mm
Retract on layer change: Yes
Wipe while retracting: Yes
For Prusament PETG I have an extrusion multiplier of 0.99 and print @240c(1st layer 245c), bed 80c.
For Eryone and Sunlu PETG I have an extrusion multiplier of 0.96and print @225c(1st layer 235c), bed 80c.
For most PLA filaments I just print @210-215c.
With the above settings I get basically zero stringing on PLA(which is to be expected) and only a very small amount on PETG. The little bit of PETG stringing is definitely a lot less than what I get with the stock V6.
It's worth mentioning that I don't usually print super fast on my Prusa machines as I prefer higher quality and stronger parts over winning a speed race 🙂
An example of one of my profiles:
50mm/s perimeters, 25mm/s external perimeter, 70mm/s infill, 180mm/s travel, 28mm/s first layer.
Acceleration: Perimeters 600 mm/s2, Everything else 1000 mm/s2.
RE: Revo Six on MK3S+ has extra stringing and oozing
I carried out another test with your data. I only placed one part on the bed.
The print worked very well. Thanks for the settings.
Will now carry out the same test with two components.
RE: Revo Six on MK3S+ has extra stringing and oozing
Your settings works very well. Thank you very much.
RE: Revo Six on MK3S+ has extra stringing and oozing
Hallo Gemeinde,
nachdem ich micht jahrelang mit einem selbst gebauten Prusa Clone herumgeschlagen hatte, habe ich kürzlich einen gebrauchten original MK3S+ erworben.
Allerdings hat der Vorbesitzer das hier diskutierte Revo6 verbaut. Ich bin aus allen Wolken gefallen dass hiermit die Ausdrucke schlechter sind als bei meinem alten Eigenbau.
Nachdem ich die Beiträge hier durchgelesen habe, stellt sich mir die Frage WARUM will/sollte man sich eigentlich ein REVO6 einbauen?
Nur wegen des einfachen Düsenwechsels?
Obiges wurde gedruck mit ASA Form Futura ApolloX, damit konnte ich mit meinem Eigenbau problemos solche Teile drucken.
Nachdem ich hier die Beiträge durchgelesen habe erscheint es mir sinnvoller das original Hotend wieder einzubauen.
RE: Revo Six on MK3S+ has extra stringing and oozing
Sorry should have posted in english.
Here comes a google translated version
Hello community,
after years of struggling with a homemade Prusa clone, I recently purchased a used original MK3S+. However, the previous owner installed the Revo6 discussed here. I was amazed that the printouts are worse than with my old self-made one. After reading the posts here, the question arises WHY do you want/should you actually install a REVO6? Just because of the simple nozzle change?
The above was printed with ASA Form Futura ApolloX, so I could easily print such parts with my own construction. After reading through the posts here, it seems more sensible to me to reinstall the original hotend.
RE: Revo Six on MK3S+ has extra stringing and oozing
I think the picture probably said more than the message anyway. Have you tried changing your print settings as done by other Revo users in this thread? It will probably take more experimentation since you are printing in ASA, but making the same sort of changes to the default ASA settings might be a good start.
Are you printing in an enclosure at all? Some of the problem may be strictly ASA related as opposed to just being caused by using the Revo with the default settings that are designed for the V6.
RE: Revo Six on MK3S+ has extra stringing and oozing
Yes I am printing in an enclosure
Yes I have tried settings as proposed earlier in this thread
What i just tested you can see in the picture. Printing the excatly same g-code on both printers give really big difference.
The 2 prints in the left are from Prusa with Revo6 the one on the right from my clone.
The reason to move to "real" Prusa ist tha my homebuilt one is very unreliable. Often some strang things happend and i had dig into it to work it out.
Prusa has the reputation to simply WORK.
I am not willing to fiddle about settings again. The original V6 HotEnd i received as well, but with a broken wire on the heater cartridge. As soon i have a new cartridge i will change to V6 HotEnd.
RE: Revo Six on MK3S+ has extra stringing and oozing
I don't blame you. Experience with the Revo seems to be hit or miss; people that stick with it and fiddle with them long enough to get them tuned seem to wind up happy with them in the end. I will know soon enough as I put one in the Voron 2.4 I am building. One thing is clear though... The Revo 6 may physically be a drop in replacement for the V6, but you still have to treat it like a totally different hot end when it comes to settings, because that's what it is.
RE: Revo Six on MK3S+ has extra stringing and oozing
Anyone got settings that work well for the 0.6mm nozzle? Thanks.
RE: Revo Six on MK3S+ has extra stringing and oozing
Just a note since this thread got bumped, that I love the Revo that I used in my Voron, and plan to change my Prusa over to a Revo (using BearExxa) as soon as the parts arrive.
RE: Revo Six on MK3S+ has extra stringing and oozing
My problems got solved when i got new heating element. Mine were broken already new and i thought that it were just so bad quality or something like that. Temperature didn't stay stable with my REVO six and caused oozing etc. I think the temperature sensor were bad. New heating element did solve the problem with 0.6mm nozzle too, but best result i've got (without any problems with mmu2s either) when i moved the printer to my walk-in closet :D!
RE: Revo Six on MK3S+ has extra stringing and oozing
Which Hotend did you have before and how does Linear Advance / Pressure Advance compare?
I am currently still with the V6 in my MK3S+.
But I am thinking about getting the Revo. However I'd really like to know, if it requires more LA/PA or if it's the same as with the V6.
RE: Revo Six on MK3S+ has extra stringing and oozing
Which Hotend did you have before and how does Linear Advance / Pressure Advance compare?
I am currently still with the V6 in my MK3S+.
But I am thinking about getting the Revo. However I'd really like to know, if it requires more LA/PA or if it's the same as with the V6.
I did switch my MK3S+ over to Revo 6 a few months ago, with Bear Exxa and I did the full Bear frame upgrade at the same time. To be honest, I am still using the same slicing settings as I was with the factory V6 hotend. I have noticed maybe a little additional stringing, but nothing to be worth bothering with. I am going to change my other 3S+ (Modified Bear with 100mm extended Z) over to Revo as well probably in the next few weeks.
RE: Revo Six on MK3S+ has extra stringing and oozing
Thanks .. Setup on Ender 3 with all liner rails and BMG and Revo setup ...work great now...
RE:
Hey, just saw this thread, since i have been using the revo six also. Never thought the stringing might be due to the Hotend, as i installed it in my MK3s+ right away. I just started trying out OrcaSlicer. I used the same File and sliced it with PrusaSliver and OrcaSlicer with standard profiles. Printed with the same roll of Extrudr NX2 PLA- Whatever is different in Orca seems to fix the stringing i had.
RE: Revo Six on MK3S+ has extra stringing and oozing
RE: Revo Six on MK3S+ has extra stringing and oozing
Just wanted to update this thread on what worked for me. I had severe underextrusion after about 15 layers from the initial revo install. I contacted e3d support and they walked me through checking all of my upgrade/installation and firmware (which was all correct). They asked I take off the heater core and use a multimeter to read the thermistor and heater cables to the heater core. After sharing my readings, and troubleshooting steps. They had me contact my reseller (Printed Solid) for a warranty replacement on my heater core. Printed Solid sent it to me within 3 days and after installing the new heater core, updating the thermal model, PID Tuning, and re-calibrating Z, along with a hefty amount of cold pulls, I'm back to printing 24 / 7 like I was with my v6 before the upgrade!
RE: Revo Six on MK3S+ has extra stringing and oozing
Hi, I have just ordered a Revo 6 and the above posts do not fill me with confidence. Has anyone actually had success with the hotend?
Just a comment about PETG being hygroscopic. I have spools of PETG lying around for years in the open air and also in very humid climate and have had no bubbling issues or stringing with the filament which would lead me to believe that PETG is not hygroscopic. Nylon on the other hand is totally different. Leave it out for a couple of weeks is enough to make it unusable without drying it first.
RE: Revo Six on MK3S+ has extra stringing and oozing
Hi Willo47,
I’ve had good luck with the Revo 6 conversion on my MK3S. I switched over about two years ago and only noticed a small increase in stringing. After making some small temperature and retraction changes, the stringing was equal to before the switch to the Revo 6. I’m still running firmware 3.11. I predominately use the Obxidian .6 or .4 nozzle. I’ve used the .08 brass nozzle once and the .25 brass a couple of times with good results.
I guess I’m one of the lucky ones. It certainly seems like there has been a wide variety of experiences.