RE: Review: Dragon Hotend
I did for the Mk3S but if I recall correctly, I broke off the small "pull tab" to make it fit.
RE: Review: Dragon Hotend
I took a look and cutting of a lot of the PTFE tube, it’s like 10mm left, do you remember how much PTFE tube you had left?
RE: Review: Dragon Hotend
What settings do you guys use, like Retraction Lenght, Retraction Speed, Wipe etc... with your dragon hotend?
RE: Review: Dragon Hotend
I think it has been said a few times in this long thread before, no changes were required to any of my profiles.
RE: Review: Dragon Hotend
Like @Fuchsr, I used the stock setting and got beautiful results.
What settings do you guys use, like Retraction Lenght, Retraction Speed, Wipe etc... with your dragon hotend?
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE:
Thank you all very much for the information provided in this thread. I have now my Dragon hotend working with the mount from Sebastian. I printed it in PetG – no deformation after 10 hours of printing (PLA, PetG). Later I will probably print it in a more heatresistant material (maybe Nylon), as soon as I get some new filament.
@512MB: PetG and PLA (0.4mm nozzle) prints good with the standard settings from the mini (in Prusaslicer). I had just a bit stringing.
Now I have some more questions if you would be so kind to help me 🙂
- Did you change the stock fan duct (part cooling for the printed parts)? If yes: To which one?
- What strength of the torque do you use to change the nozzle? Depending on the source I find recommendations from 1.5NM to 3NM. I printed now the 2.5NM version (thank you for the link fuchsr).
Part cooling
I think that the fan duct blows more at the heater block and behind the printed area then under the nozzle. This would make part cooling more difficult, especially later when I want to print with 0.6, 0.8 and 1.2mm nozzles. Therefore, I thought it wouldn’t hurt to get a better cooling. Unfortunately, I see nothing that was designed for the dragon hotend.
- If the Dragon Hotend and the Mosquito have the same nozzle placement (because Sebastian’s mount is a remix of Malcoms Mosquito Mount), I could use Malcoms fan shroud mad for the Mosquito hotend. https://www.prusaprinters.org/de/prints/37368-prusa-mini-mosquito-fan-shroud
What experience do you have with part cooling and bigger nozzles on the dragon hotend?
Thank you in advance for your help
RE: Review: Dragon Hotend
I haven't experienced any cooling issues at all, using the standard shroud and 0.4 and 0.6 mm nozzles. Can't speak to 0.8. I almost exclusively use 0.8 nozzles on my Mk3S printers because they usually go hand in hand with the need for print volume larger than the Mini offers. My experience with the handful of "improved" shroud designs on the Mk3S has been that none offered any observable benefits in overhang tests and weeks of printing stuff, and some had worse performance than the stock shroud. I suspect there are edge cases in which they'll perform better but I just haven't run into any in my day to day printing so back to stock shrouds it is on all my printers.
Torque: as I said, I use the 2.5 Nm printed torque wrench. I measured it a long time ago, IIRC mine was perhaps a bit more than 2.5 but I don't think this is precision science, and I haven't had a single leak on any of my printers.
RE:
Thank you very much. I printed a Benchy with 0.6mm nozzle and it was "ok" - it had some stringing and some parts, where I think the cooling could be better. In this case I will first stay with the stock fan duct and see, how it works with bigger nozzles. I will also try in the few days other filaments and see how this changes the result. I mostly print with 0.6mm nozzle because it is a good trade-off between quality and speed.
Sorry for the part with the 2.5NM torque. Before I posted my first comment, I read all the 19 pages (no joke). Unfortunately with this and many other threads I'm following to get the information about the dragon or the mini (dual drive extruder etc.), I lost track of some information. Next time I will read the last 2-3 pages again before I post a question 🙂
As soon as I get everything to work I can summarize all the main information with the links etc. from this 20 pages. In case somebody looks for that later, it is on a single comment 🙂
RE: Review: Dragon Hotend
I believe — but I'm not 100% sure — it's just a standard E3D V6 collet, such as https://www.printedsolid.com/products/e3d-bowden-collet. I'm out of town so can't double-check.
RE:
I believe — but I'm not 100% sure — it's just a standard E3D V6 collet, such as https://www.printedsolid.com/products/e3d-bowden-collet. I'm out of town so can't double-check.
I checked it on mine - this looks like the part. Short note: There is a typo in your link (a "." dot to much in the end) 🙂
https://www.printedsolid.com/products/e3d-bowden-collet
RE: Review: Dragon Hotend
Yeah, that's a bug in the forum software. You type a URL at the end of a sentence, it includes the period in the auto convert 😡
RE: Review: Dragon Hotend
You get a spare one when buying the hotend or you should get one, I got one!
RE: Review: Dragon Hotend
Sadly i didnt get one 🙁
RE: Review: Dragon Hotend
Thank you, i bought it from one of my country's seller . i will inform you when it cargo arrive
Yeah, that's a bug in the forum software. You type a URL at the end of a sentence, it includes the period in the auto convert 😡
RE: Review: Dragon Hotend
You get a spare one when buying the hotend or you should get one, I got one!
Mine came with one also. That may have changed. I purchased early.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: Review: Dragon Hotend
I Bought one for two weeks ago, got one also! So nothing has changed.
RE: Review: Dragon Hotend
The thing to remember is not every Dragon is a Phaetus Dragon. There are knock offs and not all of them come with the same stuff.
I Bought one for two weeks ago, got one also! So nothing has changed.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: Review: Dragon Hotend
Update on my (Tri-Lab) Dragon Hot-End High Flow not that it is getting summer here and the Dragon needs to prove itself if I can keep printing PLA witch I could not with the standaard E3D V6.
Sadly... No... This Dragon Hot-End also is unable to print ANY PLA prints for me in elevated ambient air temperatures (currently 32°C).
Looking at the pulled out filament, it seems it is again the black frame that gets to hot (~56°) at the entry point where the PTFE stops. So its kinda the same issue as what I had before I modded the hot-end.
I'm now planning on trying one last mod. And that is to drill a hole in the top of the dragon black frame, so that I can do 2 thing:
1. Push the PTFE tube all the way up against the syringe tube start.
2. Making the hole is the black frame a bit bigger then the PTFE outer dia, so that the PTFE hopefully doesn't come in contact with the hot frame, keeping the filament colder/stiffer before entering the syringe tube.
Creative Engineer and 3D printing @ AcEcraft.eu