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Review: Dragon Hotend  

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cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Topic starter answered:
Enclosure

Same here.  I have old had heat creep cause problems with PLA, but PETG does not require an enclosure so I would avoid using it.  

Posted by: @fuchsr

Even with PETG I keep the door open. 

 

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog

Posted : 13/09/2021 12:53 pm
BlueRocketMouse
(@bluerocketmouse)
New Member
Oozing

I just got the Dragon set up in my printer, but I'm having trouble with filament rapidly oozing out from between the nozzle and heat block once the hotend starts to heat up. I tried re-tightening the nozzle a few times to no avail and I'm not really sure what the problem is or what to try next. Any advice?

Posted : 20/09/2021 2:02 am
chmeredith
(@chmeredith)
Active Member
C

Sounds like you need to thread the heat break further into the heater block.

Posted : 20/09/2021 3:52 am
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Topic starter answered:
Leak

You have a leak.  Either the nozzle is not against the head break, you have a fault nozzle, or you have a faulty hotend.  You need to remove the silicone sock and see where the leak is coming from.  

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog

Posted : 20/09/2021 8:37 am
fuchsr
(@fuchsr)
Famed Member

As @cwbullet said, see if you can locate the leak. The Dragon hotend is NOT like the E3D V6. The heatbreak is screwed in all the way, and the nozzle should connect directly to it, if screwed in correctly and hot tightened at 285 degrees. I use a 3 Nm torque wrench. 

Posted : 20/09/2021 10:21 am
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Topic starter answered:
Same

I use the same type of wrench.  Any more and you will damage it.  Any less and it will not seal  

Posted by: @fuchsr

As @cwbullet said, see if you can locate the leak. The Dragon hotend is NOT like the E3D V6. The heatbreak is screwed in all the way, and the nozzle should connect directly to it, if screwed in correctly and hot tightened at 285 degrees. I use a 3 Nm torque wrench. 

 

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog

Posted : 20/09/2021 12:51 pm
BlueRocketMouse
(@bluerocketmouse)
New Member
Re: Oozing

The leak is coming from the top of the nozzle (where it meets the heat block). I'll try to find a 3 Nm torque wrench. Really hoping I didn't break it already...I didn't realize overtightening could be an issue so I've been using my full force on it.

Thanks all for the help.

Posted : 20/09/2021 2:08 pm
JoanTabb
(@joantabb)
Moderator

did you change the nozzle? 
mk8 nozzles have a short thread on them, which does not seal against the heatbreak

regards Joan

I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK

Posted : 20/09/2021 4:23 pm
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Topic starter answered:
M8 vs V6

That would do it.  It is hard to identify the nozzle on the appearance.  Can you show an image of the nozzle?  I can usually tell.  

 

 

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog

Posted : 20/09/2021 4:36 pm
BlueRocketMouse
(@bluerocketmouse)
New Member
MK8

Oh wow, I think you're right! I don't have the nozzle on hand to take a photo but I'm looking at the product page I bought it from and it does indeed say MK8. I'll have to try a different nozzle when I get home. Thank you, Joan!

Posted : 20/09/2021 4:56 pm
JoanTabb
(@joantabb)
Moderator

I think the mk8 screw thread is 6mm long, and the e3Dv6 nozzle id 7.5mm thread length

regards Joan

I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK

Posted : 20/09/2021 5:23 pm
Xanthe
(@xanthe)
Trusted Member
Mk8 or V6?

Are you sure it's a Mk8 type nozzle?

Mine (bought about 1 month ago) looks very much like a V6 type nozzle.

Posted : 21/09/2021 9:53 am
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Topic starter answered:
Nozzle

That is a good question.  NIt is important to note that not all dragons come with a nozzle.  

Posted by: @xanthe

Are you sure it's a Mk8 type nozzle?

Mine (bought about 1 month ago) looks very much like a V6 type nozzle.

 

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog

Posted : 21/09/2021 9:56 am
fuchsr
(@fuchsr)
Famed Member

No idea why Mk8 even came up, the Dragon uses standard E3D V6 nozzles.

Posted : 21/09/2021 11:21 am
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Topic starter answered:
Leak

I can explain that - it is simple.  Not every Dragon includes a nozzle and the OP has a leak.  Wrong nozzle size is one possible cause of a leak.  I hope that helps and clarifies what was posted above.  

Posted by: @fuchsr

No idea why Mk8 even came up, the Dragon uses standard E3D V6 nozzles.

 

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog

Posted : 21/09/2021 12:38 pm
fuchsr
(@fuchsr)
Famed Member

Got it, now I know where you were coming from—in case OP accidentally bought the wrong nozzle type.

Posted : 21/09/2021 12:51 pm
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Topic starter answered:
Replace

Or even replaced it.  Stranger things have happened.  

Posted by: @fuchsr

Got it, now I know where you were coming from—in case OP accidentally bought the wrong nozzle type.

 

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog

Posted : 21/09/2021 12:52 pm
Dr. Mabuse
(@dr-mabuse)
Active Member
RE:

Hi,

due to increasing problems with my stock heatend setup i am preparing to install the triangle labs dragon now. I do have a couple of questions:

The new PTFE tube must be shorter? The original one is 44.3mm long and the dragon one must be cut down to 29.7mm? Is there any printable cutting template for the dragon PTFE tube?

Champfer only needed when using an MMU?

My Dragon hotend came assembled. I did just read on reddit that sometimes there is no heat paste applied to the hotend. I dont understand where to apply or check for already applied heat paste? 

Then, even with the dragon one still needs an extra fan when printing PLA? I am living in the tropics with up to 30C ambient temp and i am using an enclosure. So i need to vent it, right?

thx

 

This post was modified 11 months ago by Dr. Mabuse
Posted : 10/11/2021 3:54 am
Livius
(@livius)
Eminent Member
@dr-mabuse dragon hotend install

Dr. Mabuse,

  1. PTFE tube on MK3S+ is 27.9mm long.  Don't know about other versions.  I would install the tube in the hotend long and see where it comes to on the extruder body and trim to length.
  2. You still need a lead-in chamfer for the filament.  The issue of the chamfer is on the outside of the tube inside the hotend.  If you look at this post, it's where the red arrow is pointing.  There's a counterbore on the heatsink portion and there can be a mismatch with the hole of the top adapter.  The tube can get stuck on the mismatch and it won't be fully seated into the heatsink so a small chamfer for assy is recommended.  You can also push really hard.
  3. Can't help with thermal paste but it would be at the interface with the heater block.  Mine came assembled directly from Phaetus and I'm trusting they did their part.
  4. I print PLA in an enclosure running at 32C ambient without issue.  No extra fan for the dragon needed.  I have an exhaust fan and a recirculating fan in my enclosure and I just run them constantly without temp control when printing PLA.

Hope that helps.

Regards/Livius

Posted : 10/11/2021 4:39 am
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Topic starter answered:
RE: Review: Dragon Hotend

That seems correct, but there are a bunch of variants of the “Dragon”

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog

Posted : 10/11/2021 3:50 pm
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