Print settings for 0.25mm nozzle and PLA  

RE: Print settings for 0.25mm nozzle and PLA

I have the same problem with the 0.25 nozzle. Did you solved it? Or anyone knows which is the best way to print propperly witht 0.25? In my case the problem starts even in the first layer...

RE: Print settings for 0.25mm nozzle and PLA

Same thing here.  Just started a week or so ago, and my initial prints with the .4 nozzle have been very successful.  But with a .25 nozzle, I succeed about one time in six.  The typical result is that part way through the print (often, but not always, near the beginning), I'll start hearing the extruder clicking and filament stops flowing.  If I am nearby, I can immediately unload the filament, clip the end, and reload it but the print is ruined.  If I'm not nearby, it keeps trying to print and seems to make the problem much worse.  The clog gets larger and I may not be able to unload the filament, and need to remove the nozzle and use a brass rod to push up the heat break to force the clog upwards until I can pull the filament out.  

I am not certain yet, but I think the problem is the Prusa custom heat break.  There are a number of current threads about how the Prusa heat break isn't the standard e3d 2 mm tube, but has a custome designed 2.2 mm "funnel" at the top of the heat break before narrowing down to the standard 2 mm tube.  With the .25mm nozzle, it seems like the flow is slow enough that heat leaking up it can make the filament in that region soften and spread out to fill the 2.2 mm funnel, and then can't fit down the rest of the tube when it narrows down to 2 mm.  

I'm trying to lower the print temperature to 205, and I'll see if that helps.  And I'm coming here to review those threads about the 2.2 mm heat break and see what other solutions people are suggesting (other than replacing it with a standard e3d version).  If I find a consistent solution, I'll try to remember to come back to this thread too and post what I found.

Good luck!

RE: Print settings for 0.25mm nozzle and PLA

Posted by: corey.m6

[...] So my Prusa is rocking along with no trouble with it's 0.40mm nozzle.  I installed a 0.25mm nozzle, but I am getting skips when printing the second or later solid layers.

Looking at your gcode, I see some immediate oddities:

• You are using 0.06mm infill extrusion widths. That's... a bit narrow. The printer is going to have a hard time printing extrusions narrower than the nozzle. Try 0.25mm or larger. 
• You are using a 1st layer extrusion width 0f 0.35mm. This is a bit outside the general guideline of 120% of nozzle width. You might try 0.3mm.

Things falling apart on layer 2 makes perfect sense if that's where your infill starts. I suspect you've got a few of the extrusion widths wrong. I've got my notes on using different nozzles with the Mk3 & PrusaSlicer here. Tip: If you enter an extrusion width of 0, PrusaSlicer will calculate reasonable widths based on your set nozzle size.

I'd also work with something smaller than a 9 hour print until you get the basics working!

RE: Print settings for 0.25mm nozzle and PLA

We have the following parameters with Cura 4.0.0 ( unable to get great quality with PrusaSlicer) to print our fiNe-scale (1/160) locomotives and wagons :

with a 0.20 nozzle ( our standard nozzle) : layer height : 0.08 (initial : 0.2 ) (*) ,  line width : 0.19  

with a 0.25 nozzle : layer height : 0.08  (initial : 0.2) (*) ,  line width : 0.23

for both :  with PLA EVO 3DONLINE : T° 206°c (initial : 210°c),  100% infill density ( small wall  thickness), fan speed : 80% (regular fan speed at layer : 10), linear advance factor : 30, flow rate : 100%, speed : 15mm/s (first layer : 10mm/s, support speed : 15mm/s), print acceleration : 500 mm/s2  print jerk : 8mm/s, experimental tree support activated with default parameters, retractation : retract at layer change, distance : 0.8mm, speed : 0.35mm/s, limit support retractations, z hop 0.6mm when retracted.

We have 100% print success.

(*) if required, the layer height is managed with the experimental adaptive layer Cura process :

for the 0.20 nozzel : layer height : 0.10, adaptive layer maximum variation : 0.05, adaptive layer variation step size : 0.01, adaptive layer treshold : between 200 and 700 .

for the 0.25 nozzel : layer height : 0.12, adaptive layer maximum variation : 0.06, adaptive layer variation step size : 0.01, adaptive layer treshold : between 200 and 700 .

RE: Print settings for 0.25mm nozzle and PLA

Thank you for your help.  I will try this, soon.

RE: Print settings for 0.25mm nozzle and PLA

E3d extruder is made for a max temperature of 40, if you are printing with higher temps , install a extra cooling fan, from a computer cooling fan, to blow in the printer or enclosure. If you have a enclosure, a temp controlled fan wood be the best. A computer fan to test this with hot weather is also a possibility, on thingiverse you can find cases for fans.

On thingiverse you can also find a cooling fan for on top of the extruder, this will cool it very good, let the fan blow upwards, then the heat cannot go to the filament and soften the filament. This update I wood always install, is better for every filament.

RE: Print settings for 0.25mm nozzle and PLA

Took the time to stop here and say I used these settings with a 0.25 nozzle and they worked great first time.   Figured that may help somebody else who sees this post. 

Posted by: @phmalcontactsgmail-com

We have the following parameters with Cura 4.0.0 ( unable to get great quality with PrusaSlicer) to print our fiNe-scale (1/160) locomotives and wagons :

with a 0.20 nozzle ( our standard nozzle) : layer height : 0.08 (initial : 0.2 ) (*) ,  line width : 0.19  

with a 0.25 nozzle : layer height : 0.08  (initial : 0.2) (*) ,  line width : 0.23

for both :  with PLA EVO 3DONLINE : T° 206°c (initial : 210°c),  100% infill density ( small wall  thickness), fan speed : 80% (regular fan speed at layer : 10), linear advance factor : 30, flow rate : 100%, speed : 15mm/s (first layer : 10mm/s, support speed : 15mm/s), print acceleration : 500 mm/s2  print jerk : 8mm/s, experimental tree support activated with default parameters, retractation : retract at layer change, distance : 0.8mm, speed : 0.35mm/s, limit support retractations, z hop 0.6mm when retracted.

We have 100% print success.

(*) if required, the layer height is managed with the experimental adaptive layer Cura process :

for the 0.20 nozzel : layer height : 0.10, adaptive layer maximum variation : 0.05, adaptive layer variation step size : 0.01, adaptive layer treshold : between 200 and 700 .

for the 0.25 nozzel : layer height : 0.12, adaptive layer maximum variation : 0.06, adaptive layer variation step size : 0.01, adaptive layer treshold : between 200 and 700 .

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RE: Print settings for 0.25mm nozzle and PLA

Hello,

I try to print miniatures since some weeks now. That's my current result:

My learnings/thoughts:

• With 0.4mm nozzle I had no chance to reduce stringing to an acceptable level at a 0.1mm layer height. (I'm sure this can be solved, but I gave up)
• I use 0.2mm nozzle now which solved the stringing problem.
• 0.1 - 0.07mm layer height works fine for me
• First layer should always be thicker. Use 1.5mm or 2mm. (I had problems (bed adhesion) with 2mm which is expected because your layer height should be max. 80% of nozzle size)
• I had a clogged nozzle sometimes, so I reduced the nozzle temperature.
  This seems to be a tricky part, because the first layer must be very sticky to the bed. The following layers may not be too cold because it seems this can result in warping.
  • First layer: 210°C
  • Following layers: 200°C (I also had success with 190°C... this really depends on your filament, your environment temperature (enclosure) and so on...)
  • I've read a lot about using “higher temperatures” so that the filament comes out of the nozzle more easily. However, this seems to be counter intuitive as it makes clogging worse.
• Go slow... but not too slow.
  • 
  • I mainly used the Prusa Slicer settings for 0.25mm nozzle and 0.07mm detailed print profile. (Use an existing profile that fits your nozzle/printer to have a starting point. If you do not have a perfect match to your nozzle size you have to change the extrusion width!!! See here: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/creating-profiles-for-different-nozzles_127540 )
  • I reduced the perimeter speed to 60mm/s. Outer perimeter to 40mm/s.
  • My thoughts to this:
    • Lower speed can result in better quality, but think about the filament that is cooking inside your nozzle. I think that if you print slow, you maybe want to reduce the nozzle temperature.
    • Keep the speed more or less constant. The combination of speed and nozzle/filament temperature seems to be important.
• "One small object" VS "A lot of small objects"
  • Check your bed level!!! Keep in mind that you only print a 1.5mm thick first layer. Your bed must be leveled correctly so that the first layer has the same good quality at every position on your bed. Maybe it's worth to have a look to this bed level guide: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/bed-level-correction_2267
  • The layers have much more time to cool down if you print more objects. This can have an effect on less stringing or less warping.
  • If you only want to print one piece with very thin fine elements like a sword, you maybe want to add another object with the same height that works as a "slow down the cooling" object. (You could use a cube in vase mode/1 layer wall and no infill and no top layer)

I hope this will help you.

Some tipps when trying things out:

• Choose a representative object. (Maybe only print a part of this object by cutting it and add a brim/raft, if you left the plate) This will save you a lot of time!
• Observe exactly what the problem is. Watch the printing.
• Choose one problem at a time and work on that.
• Try to understand the physical problem. This is maybe not so easy at the first time, but if you understand what the reason for the problem is it's much easier to fix it.
• Only change one parameter at a time.
• Make small steps.
• Keep calm and take your time. 🙂

I hope this will help someone in the future. Also read the previous post. It contains good settings (but no explanations why they are good).