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How to set up glass print bed for Prusa i3 Mk3?  

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peter.r21
(@peter-r21)
Active Member
How to set up glass print bed for Prusa i3 Mk3?

I'm determined to print large nylon prints (taulman bridge) but they always warp and detach from the PEI sheet.
I've had some 2mm glass cut to the print bed size and was looking to alter the start up gcode so that the machine auto levels then moves the head up out of the way then gives me two minutes to attach the glass with clips. I'll be using wolfbite nitro on the glass which is made for nylon bonding.
I found someone who has done exactly this for the Mk2s and was hoping to try that gcode but thought it just might not be compatible with the mk3.
Can anyone tell me if the following gcode below will work on the mk3 or can anyone tell me the correct gcode I need to use for my mk3?
Thanks in advance
Peter

"ok, I'm now printing Nylon on a 3mm thick piece of Tufnol that I got cut to the same size as my build plate, and I replace the start up gcode with this:

M300 S1567 P240
M301 P22.18 I1.27 D96.74 ; PID Tuning for your printer, you can delete this line if not used
G28 W ; home all without mesh bed level
G80 ; mesh bed levelling
G1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside printing area
G1 F600 Z+100 ; Raise the print nozzle out of the way
G4 P30000 ; pause for 1 minute
M300 S1567 P240 ; Play a Beep
M117 One minute remaining ; One minute remaining warning
G4 P30000 ; pause 1 more minute
G1 Z3 ; Measure your tufnol thickness first
G92 Z0 ; Set absolute positioning for remaining print
G1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line
G1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; intro line

This will do the auto bed levelling and then let you attach your piece of Tufnol, or glass or aluminium if you really wanted. All you need is tape or clips to attach your surface to your build plate. So just slice your part normally, and replace the starting gcode for your printer with this and voila, printing nylon made easy. And if you're using whale tufnol you don't need to worry about using the heated bed since your print won't need one."

Posted : 18/10/2018 1:19 pm
peter.r21
(@peter-r21)
Active Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: How to set up glass print bed for Prusa i3 Mk3?

Surely there is someone on this forum who knows how to do this??

Posted : 19/10/2018 9:18 pm
michael.m148
(@michael-m148)
Active Member
Re: How to set up glass print bed for Prusa i3 Mk3?

Taulman bridge may not be so bad, but with Taulman 645 I had terrible trouble getting it to stick to glass (on another printer). What I ended up doing was gluing down ordinary paper to the glass with thinned white glue. Left some paper fibers on the nylon, but I was able to wash them off.

Posted : 19/11/2018 12:03 am
surfgeorge
(@surfgeorge)
Estimable Member
Re: How to set up glass print bed for Prusa i3 Mk3?

Did anyone come up with a method to use a glass build plate with the MK3?
I would also like to try this, have the plates at home already

Posted : 26/11/2018 11:41 am
Mustrum Ridcully
(@mustrum-ridcully-2)
Honorable Member
Re: How to set up glass print bed for Prusa i3 Mk3?

just clip the thin sheet of borosilicate to the heat bed with bulldog clips

Posted : 26/11/2018 8:17 pm
surfgeorge
(@surfgeorge)
Estimable Member
Re: How to set up glass print bed for Prusa i3 Mk3?


just clip the thin sheet of borosilicate to the heat bed with bulldog clips

That part is clear, but how do you use the mesh bed leveling and set the right z-offset??
I can't think of how to do that.

Posted : 27/11/2018 8:38 am
Mustrum Ridcully
(@mustrum-ridcully-2)
Honorable Member
Re: How to set up glass print bed for Prusa i3 Mk3?

Manually input the thickness of the borosilicate plate to your live z by hitting pause after the mesh bed pass but before the print actually starts and clipping the glass to the bed at that point then hit resume... I would leave the spring steel sheet in place... if the glass was thin enough the mesh leveling might work if the Pinda was lowered to perhaps 0.5mm higher than the nozzle I would try this first as it would simplify things.

Posted : 27/11/2018 3:18 pm
surfgeorge
(@surfgeorge)
Estimable Member
Re: How to set up glass print bed for Prusa i3 Mk3?

Thanks! I was not aware that you can pause the print while the nozzle is moving from the last mesh bed leveling point to the priming line.

Posted : 27/11/2018 3:51 pm
Mustrum Ridcully
(@mustrum-ridcully-2)
Honorable Member
Re: How to set up glass print bed for Prusa i3 Mk3?

as long as you hit pause before the print itself starts you can hold the action button in and get the raise Z command and lift the extruder high enough to clip in your glass not sure if yo need to let it do its extrude line but since the z height is where it needs to be in relation to the metal plate until you enter the correction to it for the glass it should be fine if you wait until the purge line is drawn but just experiment with a few life z sheets to establish whet you need. i doubt it will be a single simple correction number for the glass as the live z will need to be adjusted for the glass surface.

let us know how it works out... have you tried the smooth sheet with glue stick and found it not to work or are you going by the received wisdom that glass must be used for Nylon?

Posted : 27/11/2018 5:12 pm
Old Tinkerer
(@old-tinkerer)
Active Member
Re: How to set up glass print bed for Prusa i3 Mk3?

This looks like a good solution. A steel plate without the PEI sheet.

https://www.printedsolid.com/collections/prusa/products/blank-plate-for-prusa-mk3-and-2-5

Steve Musante

Posted : 02/01/2019 3:32 am
Mustrum Ridcully
(@mustrum-ridcully-2)
Honorable Member
Re: How to set up glass print bed for Prusa i3 Mk3?

Glass is not a perfect fix either I use it on my Rostock Max V2.5 delta printer and printing Taulman 618 on it the print plucked a divot of glass off of the plate when the print cooled after it finished

Posted : 02/01/2019 5:29 am
daniel.g53
(@daniel-g53)
Eminent Member
Re: How to set up glass print bed for Prusa i3 Mk3?

Just tidied the cut n paste up a little, I'm using 4mm Tufnul and convinced you won't find better adhesion to Nylon anywhere. I use nitro but only to help getting the part off!

M115 U3.5.1 ; tell printer latest fw version
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp
G28 W ; home all without mesh bed level
G80 ; mesh bed leveling
G1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside print area
G1 F600 Z140.0 ; Raise the print nozzle out of the way
G4 P15000 ; pause for 30 sec
G1 Z4 ; thickness of alternative bed
G92 Z0.0
G1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line
G1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; intro line
M221 S{if layer_height==0.05}100{else}95{endif}

I've ordered a raw spring steel plate, going to try laminating a 0.4mm sheet of Tufnul to it, really just to get rid of the paper clips but hoping I might be able to swap sheets without this code and pick up the diff in the mesh bed leveling?

Cheers

Posted : 26/01/2019 4:38 am
Robin
(@robin-4)
Estimable Member
Re: How to set up glass print bed for Prusa i3 Mk3?

I print on to textured HIPS sheets on top of the steel pei sheet. These sheets are 1.6 mm thick which is abour as thick as you can get away with using the auto mesh leveling. What i do is set a printer profile withing slic3r PE that has a nozzle offset of 1.6mm ( can be adjusted depends on extra sheet thickness). What this does is allow the printer to run through all the auto level and start the print without any alteration to the live Z height, so no need to pause print. you need to make sure though that the area the purge line prints into is not covered as the gcode thats set in slic3r PE will purge at about 0.45 mm from the set Z height for zero to the steel plate surface. I have not been able to find where to alter this. So it just means you need to have your thicker part of the print surface cut so it doesnt cover the front of the steel sheet.

Caution though, if the extra non metal surface is more than 1.6mm the nozzel can/will hit the surface during the bed leveling checks. this is due the the pinda probe needing to sense the steel plate. I found this when i tried a 2mm HIPS sheet on the plate and the nozzle hit the sheet.

This method allow me to use lots of different coated steel sheets without altering the live Z. I just set up a profile for each of the sheets with an offset that gives a good first layer.

Posted : 26/01/2019 10:24 am
daniel.g53
(@daniel-g53)
Eminent Member
Re: How to set up glass print bed for Prusa i3 Mk3?

Hi Robin,

Fantastic, by nozzle offset you mean Z offset yeah?

Are you using HIPs for Nylon?

Cheers

Posted : 27/01/2019 2:38 am
Robin
(@robin-4)
Estimable Member
Re: How to set up glass print bed for Prusa i3 Mk3?

Yes Z offset. The only proble is the purge line which still works on the live Z that is set in the printer. So the fromt of the plate needs to be clear to allow the printer to do the purge still. Unless anyone konows what code to change?

Currently only printing PLA,PETg and TUP. I looked at nylon as i have a lot that could be done in it, but the print surface issues with usung nylon put me off it. Mostly due to only having one steel sheet at the time, i have a few more now so i may try some nylon.
I use a HIPS embossed sheet to print the pla and petg onto to give it the required surface texture i'm after.

Posted : 27/01/2019 9:35 am
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Member
Re: How to set up glass print bed for Prusa i3 Mk3?


This looks like a good solution. A steel plate without the PEI sheet.

https://www.printedsolid.com/collections/prusa/products/blank-plate-for-prusa-mk3-and-2-5

I have one to test. I just have to decide on a surface.

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog

Posted : 27/01/2019 10:22 am
Tobi
 Tobi
(@tobi-3)
New Member
RE: How to set up glass print bed for Prusa i3 Mk3?

Hello friends,

I would like to print on a 3mm glass plate (for a component where a shiny bottom layer would be nice)

This is the Origianle Start G-Code from my Prusa Mini:

G90; use absolute coordinates
M83; extruder relative mode
M104 S170; set extruder temp for bed leveling
M140 S [first_layer_bed_temperature]; set bed temp
M109 R170; wait for bed leveling temp
M190 S [first_layer_bed_temperature]; wait for bed temp
G28; home all without mesh bed level
G29; mesh bed leveling
M104 S [first_layer_temperature]; set extruder temp
G92 E0.0
G1 Y-2.0 X179 F2400
G1 Z3 F720
M109 S [first_layer_temperature]; wait for extruder temp

; intro line
G1 X170 F1000
G1 Z0.2 F720
G1 X110.0 E8.0 F900
G1 X40.0 E10.0 F700
G92 E0.0

M221 S95; set flow

The break should take place after the leveling so that I can put on the glass plate.

G1 F600 Z140.0; Raise the print nozzle out of the way
G4 P15000; pause for 30 sec
G1 Z3.00; thickness of alternative bed
G92 Z0.0

Printing on the glass plate works exactly once, with every further print it goes up another 3mm in Z. Why? What else do I have to adjust?

Posted : 30/04/2020 1:52 am
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