BuildTak build surface on Mk3 Spring Steel Sheets... A new life for worn out Sheets!
BuildTak is something I've been using for a long time and haven't seen much mention of here.
I am currently making some larger parts in Polylite ASA. This stuff just plain refuses to stick to Prusa Textured, Smooth or Satin sheets. It also happily jumps right off of a generic PEI sheet. So, out with my black BuildTak sheet and inadequate adhesion is not a problem.
BuildTak, for any that might not know, makes a very effective adhesive backed build surface. It is actually far too effective for many plastics which can become permanently bonded to it. This original formulation come in Black or White. BuildTak also makes a regular plain PEI sheet which works great on most filaments... I used this for a long time on my Mk2s and is my go-to surface for smooth prints.
You can buy BuildTak pre-applied to a steel sheet or apply it yourself. As BuildTak uses obsolete Imperial Measurement Units (inches) you will need a 10" x 10" piece and trim it to size after application, or use a 9" x 10" and lose a little build volume. It is actually fairly easy to apply by hand without air bubbles, though one could use a paper laminator to apply it to a steel sheet which is generally what I do.... it seems a Mk3 steel sheet just barely fits into my paper laminator.
But, where to get the steel sheets? Well, you could buy a generic blank spring steel sheet or remove a worn PEI sheet from one. Or, you could put it on a worn or damaged Prusa powder-coated sheet, provided it is clean and smooth. If sanding a coated sheet smooth, it is best to wear a respirator. Regardless of what sheet you use, make sure the underside is smooth as a burr can easily damage the printed circuit bed heater.
Also, it does work just fine with sticking build surfaces on both sides of a sheet. For example, my BuildTak Black sheet has FR4 on the flip side.
And finally, BuildTak surfaces are relatively thick so there is a chance you will have to adjust your Pinda probe downwards a bit and reset all of your first layer height calibrations.
Happy Printing!
¡no entiendo Español!
Nein! Nicht Versteh!
Я немного говоÑÑ Ð¿Ð¾-ÑÑÑÑки но не оÑÐµÐ½Ñ Ñ
оÑоÑо, и...
I'm not very good at English either! Maybe someday I'll find a language I'm good at?
RE: BuildTak build surface on Mk3 Spring Steel Sheets... A new life for worn out Sheets!
BuildTak is something I've been using for a long time and haven't seen much mention of here.
I am currently making some larger parts in Polylite ASA. This stuff just plain refuses to stick to Prusa Textured, Smooth or Satin sheets. It also happily jumps right off of a generic PEI sheet. So, out with my black BuildTak sheet and inadequate adhesion is not a problem.
BuildTak, for any that might not know, makes a very effective adhesive backed build surface. It is actually far too effective for many plastics which can become permanently bonded to it. This original formulation come in Black or White. BuildTak also makes a regular plain PEI sheet which works great on most filaments... I used this for a long time on my Mk2s and is my go-to surface for smooth prints.
You can buy BuildTak pre-applied to a steel sheet or apply it yourself. As BuildTak uses obsolete Imperial Measurement Units (inches) you will need a 10" x 10" piece and trim it to size after application, or use a 9" x 10" and lose a little build volume. It is actually fairly easy to apply by hand without air bubbles, though one could use a paper laminator to apply it to a steel sheet which is generally what I do.... it seems a Mk3 steel sheet just barely fits into my paper laminator.
But, where to get the steel sheets? Well, you could buy a generic blank spring steel sheet or remove a worn PEI sheet from one. Or, you could put it on a worn or damaged Prusa powder-coated sheet, provided it is clean and smooth. If sanding a coated sheet smooth, it is best to wear a respirator. Regardless of what sheet you use, make sure the underside is smooth as a burr can easily damage the printed circuit bed heater.
Also, it does work just fine with sticking build surfaces on both sides of a sheet. For example, my BuildTak Black sheet has FR4 on the flip side.
And finally, BuildTak surfaces are relatively thick so there is a chance you will have to adjust your Pinda probe downwards a bit and reset all of your first layer height calibrations.
Happy Printing!
I have found these to be very helpful but never clean them with acetone.
--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: BuildTak build surface on Mk3 Spring Steel Sheets... A new life for worn out Sheets!
or remove a worn PEI sheet from one.
Now if there were only a clean and easy way of removing the remnants of a worn PEI sheet from a steel plate.
I recently re-skinned a damaged smooth plate and that was an exercise in masochism!
RE: BuildTak build surface on Mk3 Spring Steel Sheets... A new life for worn out Sheets!
or remove a worn PEI sheet from one.
Now if there were only a clean and easy way of removing the remnants of a worn PEI sheet from a steel plate.
I recently re-skinned a damaged smooth plate and that was an exercise in masochism!
I just left them in place.
--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: BuildTak build surface on Mk3 Spring Steel Sheets... A new life for worn out Sheets!
I thought about doing that when I re-skinned the plate a few months ago.
I figured that the damaged section (below) was so large that it would result in an irregular surface of the newly-applied sheet.
RE: BuildTak build surface on Mk3 Spring Steel Sheets... A new life for worn out Sheets!
One of the nice things about BuildTak is their adhesive.... if one were to ruin the surface with acetone, it is relatively easy to detach BuildTak from the build plate without the usual hours of cursing, scraping and applying GooGone. BuildTak pretty much just peels right off.
My usual surface is the BuldTak plain PEI sheet. Again, after it wears out or gets destroyed it just peels off.
As much as I love the Prusa Satin and Textured plates, the only thing that reliably sticks to them is TPU and maybe some kinds of PLA. I do a lot of ASA and only a couple of small patterns stick to the Satin.
¡no entiendo Español!
Nein! Nicht Versteh!
Я немного говоÑÑ Ð¿Ð¾-ÑÑÑÑки но не оÑÐµÐ½Ñ Ñ
оÑоÑо, и...
I'm not very good at English either! Maybe someday I'll find a language I'm good at?
RE: BuildTak build surface on Mk3 Spring Steel Sheets... A new life for worn out Sheets!
I've never had any real issues getting things to stick on the Prusa textured plate. I do use Layerneer both as an adhesion booster and release agent.
I like the textured pattern, and I wish I could get a true drop-in similar plate for the 'other' printer, the Ultimaker S5. (Yes, I know that there are solutions which can be made to work or work with caveats or almost work or ... ... ...)
RE: BuildTak build surface on Mk3 Spring Steel Sheets... A new life for worn out Sheets!
Using BuildTak on a spring steel is a good idea for problematic filaments. But to reuse a damaged spring steel I often wouldn't call an option, depending on the defect. On the other hand, blank spring steels for mk3s cost only about 14€, considering the price of BuildTak I would mostly decide to use a new blank spring steel instead risking uneven surface. Anyway in my case I do have one original and 4 cloned mk3s. The clones came with blank spring steel and PEI to apply yourself. As I bought textured spring steel for the clones, I still have the blank steelplates "unassambled".
It is good to know BuildTak being optimal for ASA. I just ordered a spool with ASA, as I want to print some objects for outside use in summer.