Z motor and M5 threaded Z rod connection  

Re: Z motor and M5 threaded Z rod connection

I have needed to add the copper spacers under the smooth Z rod stop mount because the Z stop and the mount just get pushed all the way down. I also tried to zip tie the stop mounts to the Z rod (which you can see in pic 1), in attempt to keep them from sliding down. Which didn't work.

Without the spacers it will drive both stop mounts all the way down to the frame and the extruder hot tip into the glass bed.

Re: Z motor and M5 threaded Z rod connection

wouldn't this be a better part to use for connecting the Z motors and threaded Z rods?

http://makemendel.com/prusa-i3-parts/coupling-5-5

Re: Z motor and M5 threaded Z rod connection

Hi and welcome to the forum.

The plastic and shrink tubing combination is OK if it is fitted properly. The shring tube needs to overlap equally at both ends and needs to be fully shrunk. I'm not sure a hair drier will provide a hot enough temperature to do this. I used a heat gun on a soldering station set to 225 degrees to fully shrink the tube, and then let it cool for a few minutes before moving it.

The Z axis end-stop holder should be sitting on the Z motor mounts. You then lower the bed with the screws to prevent the nozzle hitting the glass.

However if the Z Axis is moving the end-stop holder, I would suggest that maybe the Z end stop is not functioning correctly. You need to check that out.

Just looked at your photos again and it looks as though the bed is set as low as it can be. Therefore I would guess that there is an error in the build underneath the hot bed. Smooth rods/bearings . Can you post some photos from the side/bottom of your printer please?

Peter

Re: Z motor and M5 threaded Z rod connection

Regarding your connector photo, the answer is yes, and no.

There are issues with this type of connector, but they can work well. However, there is not the space available on this printer...

Peter

Re: Z motor and M5 threaded Z rod connection

HI Peter!

Thank you for your reply.

I have included another photo (mid build) that shows how the bed and lower frame are assembled.

Please let me know if you see a problem with how this is assembled.

-Ugo

Re: Z motor and M5 threaded Z rod connection

Hi Ugo

Can't see much wrong with that. The X and Z end stops are 180 degrees off the way mine are fitted, but I don't think that would cause an issue.

Will have a think...

Peter

Re: Z motor and M5 threaded Z rod connection

What is the best way to test the current Z stop to make sure the electronics are working?

Re: Z motor and M5 threaded Z rod connection

Hi Ugo

Apologies for the late reply...

OK, so I had a similar problem with my X end-stop during the build. Best way is to check it manually with a multimeter. If you don't have one, it's a good idea to get one as it will prove useful for many things, and you don't need an expensive one, just an eBay cheapie.

Unplug the end-stop at the RAMBo board. You can hold the probes onto the connectors - there are small "windows" on one side and check the measurement. You should initially have continuity (Zero Ohms)- the end stop is used as "normally closed. Press the end stop and the meter should read open circuit (on most meters, just a 1).

You can also test with a battery and bulb. The bulb should be lit and turn off when the switch is pressed.

Peter

Re: Z motor and M5 threaded Z rod connection

Thanks Peter!

I was able to test the Z stop and Z min pins on the board by just switching out with the working X stop. The board is working, the Z stop is not.

I also found that the parts fan is not working either...

You are so right about the shrink wrap and PVC. After using a heat gun the Z motor shaft and Z rod connection is much tighter. 🙂

Knowing that my Z stop was not working, I can see why I should not need any spacers below the Z stops or need to use zip ties in attempt to secure the Z stop brackets. 😆

After realizing the Z stop was not working, I just reset and manually adjusted the Z rods to "Calibrate Z" using the business card "al dente" method.

I was able to print the PRUSA, treefrog and Marvin test files off of the SD card, logo looks OK, other files not that good... I think I need to level the bed a little better. I will try to post pics of those printouts for you to give me some pointers.

Guessing the parts fan will help keep the filament from overheating and sagging on the print bed?

What do I need to do to get a replacement Z stop and parts fan?

Thanks Peter!

Re: Z motor and M5 threaded Z rod connection

Hi Ugo

Go to the shop web page and use "Live Chat" facility to notify support that you have a faulty end stop. Give them a link to this thread.

The part fan should only be used when printing with PLA.

I can give you a few more hints when I see your pictures.

Happy printing!

Peter

Re: Z motor and M5 threaded Z rod connection

Thank you Peter!

I only have PLA filament and have been using the PLA preheat setting and files to print. The parts fan should be turning on when printing right?

I did try to switch the parts fan with the extruder fan, which is working as expected. The parts fan did not turn on when switched...

Re: Z motor and M5 threaded Z rod connection

OK Ugo, so you have another issue. Do you have the part fan polarity correct? Step 12 here: http://manual.prusa3d.com/Guide/8.+Electronics/46?lang=en

I think that it's possible to turn on the fan and set the speed via the LCD. Can you please check to see if it works from there.

If it is not working then this is something else to report to support.

PLA really does need the fan working to assist bridging, overhangs etc., so you will have to get it working.

Peter

Re: Z motor and M5 threaded Z rod connection

Hi Peter,

I chatted with Grayson online and referred him to this forum link as you directed me.

It seems that he would like for me to take more pictures to show the electronics and how things are wired before he will approve sending me a replacement Z stop. 🙁

I forgot to tell you that I did try to get the parts fan to turn on via LCD, that is how I realized that both fans were not initially working.

I did see an earlier forum post that mentioned the polarity on the fan... and that is how I got the small extruder fan to turn on. The parts fan did not seem to be affected with the polarity issue mentioned.

I will check the parts fan polarity once more when I get home, just to be triple sure. 🙂

Thanks again Peter!

Re: Z motor and M5 threaded Z rod connection

Hi Ugo

Yes, Greyson does like his pictures! Although in this situation, I really don't know how they will show an end stop not working...

The end stops are very cheap - on eBay for less than £1, so it may be quicker and easier if you buy one yourself. If you get one with a lever, that can easily be removed, but you when you wire it, make sure you use the Common and Normally Connected (C and NC) terminals.

Peter

Re: Z motor and M5 threaded Z rod connection

I took more pictures and will send them asap.

Checked and retested the Print FAN without success. It is not reversely wired, it is just not working along with the end stop.

I ended up taking the wiring harnesses apart and plan on using some different wire management once I get a new fan and endstop switch.

Pricing them online, and you are right about just ordering them outright. It will probable be much faster.

So anxious to get the Raptor Reloaded I started on my M3D printer finished. 🙂

Thanks again for your help Peter!

Re: Z motor and M5 threaded Z rod connection

Ugo

Regarding the fan. Do you have one of those small 9 volt batteries? If so, you can test the fan with that to see if it's the fan or the wiring. If it works, then there is a problem elsewhere.

Let me know.

Peter

Re: Z motor and M5 threaded Z rod connection

that is a great idea! 🙂

BTW here is a picture of the bottom and wiring you asked for regarding the bed height and lower assembly. Please let me know if you see anything wrong with the assembly.

Re: Z motor and M5 threaded Z rod connection

Z end stop and wiring pictured

Re: Z motor and M5 threaded Z rod connection

OK, I think I see the problem...

The cable from the Z end stop and X motor and end stop is not going through the gap provided in the housing; instead it is being trapped by the housing case (last picture).

That may have damaged the endstop wires.

Sort that out; you may need to re-wire the endstop (or cut out a piece of the wires either side of where it is trapped.

Peter