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What is the ideal pinda probe height?  

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jacob.s13
(@jacob-s13)
Active Member
What is the ideal pinda probe height?

I have a Prusa i3 MK2S.

Supposedly there is an ideal pinda probe height that will reduce all of my problems. I followed the manual and that height isn't even close to right for my printer. Is there any official placement for the pinda probe?

I am asking because because in the MK2 the pinda probe holder was different and people could apparently align it easier. However, in this design, there doesn't really seem to be anything to go off of.

Posted : 15/12/2017 1:23 pm
DarthMuffin
(@darthmuffin)
Eminent Member
Re: What is the ideal pinda probe height?

I use this PINDA height adjustment tool. Works well enough for me. Using the manual's method with the zip tie I needed live z of -.7 to -.9. I need -.3 or .35 after using this.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1977997

Get the nozzle just touching the lower pad and then adjust the pinda to touch the upper one.

Posted : 16/12/2017 8:57 am
spark
(@spark)
Reputable Member
Re: What is the ideal pinda probe height?

I totally dislike MK2/2S PINDA mount myself. That being said, the PINDA seems not to be designed for "perfect" first layer as physically set. One seems to NEED a gap of at least 0.2 - 0.4 mm off perfect first layer nozzle height for the PINDA to work reliably. I, for example, set the PINDA perfectly to print with Live-Z zero with my PINDA mount design and found it would crash on Z-Cal. When restored the recommended too-tall offset of Zip-Tie thickness, it worked every print again but with the irritating need to PLA calibrate first then LIve-Z occasionally for different materials.

Here is my not entirely needed PINDA plunger. It was designed to adapt to Volcano but that is another story.

If you are dead set on tighter Live-Z value, this is what I do. And no, I don't need no stinking offsetting paddles.

  • Reset XYZ Calibration (or you will compound errors)

  • Zero your Z-Live value if any.

  • Adjust your PINDA so it lines up planar to your nozzle as a safe starting point, or be a hero and eye ball your offset.

  • Manually force Z-max bump all the way up to align your gantry (horizontal x-carriage assembly) as you would when doing a Z-Cal.

  • Now, run Auto Home...have your finger on the reset button just in case. This will show your true PINDA to Nozzle relation as far as the dumb robot is concerned.

  • Use the distance from Nozzle to Bed to adjust your PINDA but to be safe don't go too far.

  • Run Auto Home and adjust until you get where you want to be. Again, I recommend dailing in need for about -0.2 to -0.3 Live-Z so the alignment points can be read consistantly.

  • Run XYZ Cal with your hopefully better PINDA placement. Remember to pay attention and keep your hand on the reset button. If crash, push PINDA a little closer to bed thus gapping "Home" a little more.

  • Run the PLA based calibration found on SD card or firmware if you've upgraded firmware to latest already.

  • Sigh because your OCD is frustrated Live-Z can't be zero.
  • Bob's your uncle (I have no idea what that means), Happy printing!

    MK2S kit owner since 8/15/2017

    Posted : 16/12/2017 12:54 pm
    AJS
     AJS
    (@ajs)
    Noble Member
    Re: What is the ideal pinda probe height?


    I have a Prusa i3 MK2S.

    Supposedly there is an ideal pinda probe height that will reduce all of my problems. I followed the manual and that height isn't even close to right for my printer. Is there any official placement for the pinda probe?

    I am asking because because in the MK2 the pinda probe holder was different and people could apparently align it easier. However, in this design, there doesn't really seem to be anything to go off of.

    The exact PINDA height is not critical. It must be low enough to trigger when above the inductive points, but high enough so that it will not drag on the print itself. People find anything from 0.4mm to 1.0mm higher than the nozzle tip to be good. Many of us use a common credit card to set it.

    WHAT IS ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL THAT YOU GET SET CORRECTLY is your "Live Z" value which lets the print know that distance and compensates for different sensitivities in PINDA units. That will solve many of your issues. Please read this post to set it very accurately:

    http://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/prusa-i3-kit-building-calibrating-first-print-main-f6/-before-you-ask-troubleshooting-video-updated--t472.html#p39190

    Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage or loss. If you solve your problem, please post the solution…

    Posted : 17/12/2017 2:28 am
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