[Zamknięte] Pinda Probe Height De-Mystified.  

Re: Pinda Probe Height De-Mystified.

Oh, I also looked at the build images, but a graphic showing neat field curves with no numbers doesn't help at all. 🙂

Re: Pinda Probe Height De-Mystified.

My preference is to set the probe as high as possible and still be able to calibrate (which I can only do with a hot bed - 60 degrees - as calibration fails when bed is cold).

Adjusted probe using feeler gauges and Auto-Home (to marginally over 0.15mm) with both nozzle and bed heated. Filament feed must be calibrated and Live Z Adjust is set to -0.025.

The 9-point calibration before print should be run with the bed at print temp as the gap will change dependant on temperature. Not as important to have nozzle at print temp simply because the hot nozzle is already calibrated to the probe.

The bed should be heated with the extruder high to prevent heat affecting the probe.

Being consistent and using whatever method you prefer is much more important than the way I do things...

Peter

Re: Pinda Probe Height De-Mystified.

So say I'm diving into resetting my probe.

I first heat the bed, set the live Z to 0.025 (not 0.25?) and send it Z-home. Adjust the pinda height accordingly?

after doing so would/should one do a z calibration and mesh bed leveling to test? Just trying to get the order of things right.

Thanks Peter.

Re: Pinda Probe Height De-Mystified.

So say I'm diving into resetting my probe.

I first heat the bed, set the live Z to 0.025 (not 0.25?) and send it Z-home. Adjust the pinda height accordingly?

after doing so would/should one do a z calibration and mesh bed leveling to test? Just trying to get the order of things right.

Thanks Peter.

No, set the Z live adjust to 0. Run an XYZ calibration. Heat bed and use Auto Home. Use feeler to check nozzle gap. Raise extruder and adjust probe. Repeat from "Auto-Home" until nozzle gap is more than 0.15mm but less than 0.25mm.

The nozzle and probe are now aligned as best they can be. The probe should be around 1mm above the nozzle and it will not hit any part during printing (except in exceptional circumstances, but for me, it hasn't).

Then print a model (Prusa Logo) and use the Z Live adjust during the first layer to get that precise - it should need very little adjustment (in my case -25 microns only), and finally, issue a G87 command.

NOTE: I think the build of the printer needs to be pretty much perfect for this to work, and as mentioned previously, mine is very sensitive to bed heat.

Peter

Re: Pinda Probe Height De-Mystified.

What exactly does the G87 do Peter?

By the way I got through it all, and live z went down to -0.25 for a good first layer. Far better than -0.75+ earlier, so I guess Im on the right track. Thats even better than it came factory built at -0.45.

Re: Pinda Probe Height De-Mystified.

* G87: Prusa3D specific: Enable babystep correction after home
* This G-code will be performed at the end of a calibration script.
*/
case 87:
calibration_status_store(CALIBRATION_STATUS_CALIBRATED);
break;


Basically it prevents the "Printer not calibrated" message. It is in the V2Calibration.gcode file which I don't use as I find other methods are better for getting the squish just right.

Peter

Re: Pinda Probe Height De-Mystified.

Entered it per the process, but the console didnt return anything, so I hope it stuck. 🙂

Thanks again Peter!

Re: Pinda Probe Height De-Mystified.

Yes, there is no response to the command.

Actually, I have it included in the start GCode for all my prints. Probably very wrong to do that, but there was a time when people were complaining of getting the "not calibrated" message even after the V2Cal was printed, so I decided I would not have the same issue myself...

Peter

Re: Pinda Probe Height De-Mystified.

Would you please explain to me, why the heigth should not be greaten than 0.25mm. I have measured mine at 0.85mm and wonder if that would be an issue.
Thanks

Re: Pinda Probe Height De-Mystified.

Matthias

If I understand your question, the Z Live Adjust value is directly related to the height difference of the nozzle and the probe.

If the probe is low, the Z Live Adjust will be high, but the probe is more likely to hit the model during print.

So the probe should be as high as possible in relation to the nozzle for the calibration to pass; this will mean that the Z live adjust is quite low.

Peter

Re: Pinda Probe Height De-Mystified.

Peter,
if i get you rigth, the nozzle should be as low as possible but higher than 0.15mm just to avoid collisons between the Pinda Probe and the printed Object?

Re: Pinda Probe Height De-Mystified.

Yes. From experience I found that the lower the live Z adjust, the better. Therefore the probe needs to be as high as possible to pass calibration.

Auto-home will set the nozzle to 0.15 (firmware minimum) and therefore a hot nozzle should be that distance from the bed.

Peter

Re: Pinda Probe Height De-Mystified.

Okay, thank you.

Re: Pinda Probe Height De-Mystified.

Yes. From experience I found that the lower the live Z adjust, the better. Therefore the probe needs to be as high as possible to pass calibration.

Auto-home will set the nozzle to 0.15 (firmware minimum) and therefore a hot nozzle should be that distance from the bed.

Peter

Just to clarify you say lower the live z adjust th better. So does that mean closer to zero? Negative but close to zero? Positive but close to zero? Or the more negative the better?

Just trying to clarify.

Higher pinda coorelates to a more or less negative z height adjustment?

Re: Pinda Probe Height De-Mystified.

The pinda probe, sets an approximate initial position,
live z adjust modifies the nozzle position relative to the pinda probe sense level.

after the printer sets the z axis during initial configuration, Z configuration will be set to zero. if there is insufficient squish in the first layer, then, make the live z adjustment more negative, I don't think I have heard anyone say they had to use positive live z values if your pinda probe is that high your extruder is very close to the heated bed.

regards joan

Re: Pinda Probe Height De-Mystified.

Hi guys,

Happy to see a post on the subject !
I have a problem : my Z eight is not repeatable.
I think I did everything fine, autocalibration tell me my axis are perpendicular and congratulate me 😉
Then when I do a mesh bed leveling several times, the eight of the nozzle is ok, but as soon as I start a test print, its much higher...so I stop the print and repeat several times the bed leveling : higher than before, and I need to put a -1.2mm z live adjust (!)

My probe is approximately 1mm higher than the nozzle, what can be wrong ?

Note that I use ABS for those tests, as it's the more difficult to set.

Thanks in advance !

Re: Pinda Probe Height De-Mystified.

➡ first: when you use abs, it's most likely that you heat up the printbed at about 100°C.
in this case it is necessary to "park" the extruder high above the bed before you start the print with the initial meshbed leveling. this is because if the pinda heats up, it delivers other values.

➡ then: if your z-live adjustment level varys from print to print: check wether the nozzle and/or the heatbreak sits still tight in the aluminium heat block when it's temperature is at the highest level. this may be the case if you've changed the nozzle when the hotend was cold and forgot to tighten it afterwards.

➡ a height difference between 0.7 and 1.0mm between the tip of the nozzle and the tip of the pinda is recommended. but 1.0 is "at the edge" of the range where sometimes the calibration might fail.

Re: Pinda Probe Height De-Mystified.

➡ first: when you use abs, it's most likely that you heat up the printbed at about 100°C.
in this case it is necessary to "park" the extruder high above the bed before you start the print with the initial meshbed leveling. this is because if the pinda heats up, it delivers other values.
Wow, that looks strange if the PINDA gives different values when its hot : as every print will start with a heating then the bed leveling, the PINDA will be hot anyway because it's on the air flow of the heating nozzle...but I'll try that anyway.

➡ then: if your z-live adjustment level varys from print to print: check wether the nozzle and/or the heatbreak sits still tight in the aluminium heat block when it's temperature is at the highest level. this may be the case if you've changed the nozzle when the hotend was cold and forgot to tighten it afterwards.
Nice remark, I didn't think about it. As it's a brand new kit out of the box, I checked this to be sure : correctly tight

➡ a height difference between 0.7 and 1.0mm between the tip of the nozzle and the tip of the pinda is recommended. but 1.0 is "at the edge" of the range where sometimes the calibration might fail.
I just measured accurately : I'm between 0.7 and 0.8, that should be ok.
I noticed than the bed had more than 1mm "horizontal defect" when I move the X axis with the printer off : the nozzle almost touch the bed on the right if I start at 1mm eigh on the left...but that what bed leveling calibration is made for, isn't it ?

Thanks for everything, I'll let you know the progress !

Re: Pinda Probe Height De-Mystified.

Hi all

Please forgive this noob question. But what tools are you using to accurately measure this height difference? (between nozzle and probe)
Is it something like this?
https://www.toolspecialist.be/fg21-feeler-gauge-set-21-piece-teng

Or do you use callipers and measure the difference from a certain reference point?
Could someone explain how this is done?

After my probe screw got loose, I'm struggling to get a good first layer. My live -Z is already more than -700 where at first is was in the -300 range.
Calibration passed but still..

Thanks for any insights!

EDIT:
Update, I managed to greatly improve calibration through good old trial and error.
I rewatched Joe's getting started video and positioned the probe as shown there. But that was too high for me. Nozzle kept crashing into the bed.
I lowered it step by step (1 revolution of the nut at a time) until the nozzle didn't touch a 0,1 sheet of paper.

I then reran XYZ calibration and now my live Z is -0,325 and my ABS print that's running now seems to stick wel. (fingers crossed)