Bad Motor/Control Board
For those of you that might have the same problem, I originally thought that I had a bad motor, now I believe that I have a control board issue. Please let me know if you have any questions or help. Thank you for time input and consideration. The link below tells all.
Re: Bad Motor/Control Board
The board did the homing for X axis so it should not be wrong. But It should hit the X Limit switch and stay there. At the end of the homing you should end up at left corner which is near you. Try controling it using pronterface thru pc. Problem can be just in firmware. and you should put fillament in the cable bundle to make it stiffer so you dont have to use zipp ties to hold it up.
Re: Bad Motor/Control Board
I have tried Pronterface and my firmware is up to date. So what next? Thanks for the filament idea.
Re: Bad Motor/Control Board
Hello,
firstly, nice video explaining what's happening ! 🙂
It's definitely the motor fault, can you inspect the crimped connector? Can you turn the motor with hand easily when printer is not powered? Is the color order on the connector same as on other motors?
Probably you'll need new motor or you can crimp new connector.
Cheers!
--------------------------------------------
Michal Prusa
CTO
Re: Bad Motor/Control Board
I have switched the x and y axis motor position on the control board and I have the same problem with the motor not working so now it seems that I have a control board issue. None of the wires are damaged.I have rewired the control board 3 times checking if everything is wired correctly. I have no idea what else I can do to fix this issue. All my firmware is to date. Can I have another control board sent to me and motor?
Re: Bad Motor/Control Board
Hi Jacob
Looking at the video, the control board is fine. It is the motor which is not behaving when controlled by either X or Y outputs from the board.
However, the motor is behaving is segments of your video., so I am wondering if this is (and apologies for this...) something you are not doing and/or something you have done wrong.
I did notice that your X end stop was not positioned correctly and the hot bed cables are unsupported and in the wrong position (this may cause issues later).
The X End Stop should be the other side of the smooth rail and should contact the end of the bearing. If the end stop is not functioning correctly, then the X Axis will not move as expected - A "Home" must be issued after every reset so that the firmware "knows" where the extruder is before the motors move correctly.
So I would suggest the following:
Ensure the X end-stop is correctly fitted
Ensure the end stop makes contact with the bearing and that the signal switches (use a multimeter for this, normally closed, open when switched)
Connect to the printer using Pronterface and issue an X Home
See if the X Axis now works as expected.
Peter
EDIT: Just noticed that your cabling from the extruder is routed incorrectly as well... More problems for the future. You may "build custom computers for work", but do you ever read the manuals? OK, I know, "Real men don't read manuals..." So I am not a "real man", but things do tend to work for me...
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…
Re: Bad Motor/Control Board
Hello,
firstly, nice video explaining what's happening ! 🙂
It's definitely the motor fault, can you inspect the crimped connector? Can you turn the motor with hand easily when printer is not powered? Is the color order on the connector same as on other motors?
Probably you'll need new motor or you can crimp new connector.
Cheers!
I can easily turn the motor and the color order on the connectors are the same as the motors.
Re: Bad Motor/Control Board
Hi Jacob
I keep looking at your video to see if there is anything else and I would comment as follows.
Your first point regarding the Z Axis not stopping: If you set the Z Axis on the LCD to (for example) 250 and then 150, the printer will carry out each command in turn. It will first try to get to 250 (and hit the top nuts as it has not been "homed") before eventually trying to move down again to 150. Each position instruction is stored in a buffer and is carried out consecutively. A new position instruction cannot "jump the queue"; it is added at the end of the queue.
Now that brings us to the homing. Whenever the printer is turned on or reset, the current position of the nozzle is assumed to be 0,0,0 until a home command is issued.
The firmware will not allow the nozzle to go beyond inbuilt limits (0 to approx 200 for each axis). I have also found that until you have homed an axis the movement may not be as expected.
At about 1:10 in your video, you show the X-Axis at the right after a reset not working properly. The X "home" position is therefore way over to the right and the axis can therefore not go left until a home is issued. It can also not move to the right as it is hitting the right hand parts. Of course, this situation will display exactly what you are experiencing.
Please, as previously advised, get all the wiring routed precisely according to the manual - there are very good reasons for doing this. Then turn on the printer (without the glass build plate) and the first thing to do is to issue a "home" and then try moving Z axis upwards about 20mm and then try moving the X and Y axis.
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…