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Unable to print with PetG  

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borys.m
(@borys-m)
Active Member
Unable to print with PetG

Man I can't get the first layer of petg to stick to the bed at all. I put tons of glue that I normally use for ABS or PLA but this stuff just won't stick. Bed is at 70C, extruder at 240C and nada. Anyone successfully printing with petg filament?

Posted : 25/06/2017 7:25 am
Milos V.
(@milos-v)
Prominent Member
Re: Unable to print with PetG

That is strange. PETG is for me as easy as PLA. Just the z height needs to be lower, similar to ABS. If you have the bed 100% clean for PLA, it should be nearly imposible to remove PETG from bed. My procedure is to clean the bed with IPA and then make it a litle bit dirty with a window cleaner. Glue works as well, but it is than hard work to clean.

Posted : 25/06/2017 8:55 am
Milos V.
(@milos-v)
Prominent Member
Re: Unable to print with PetG

I always use Prusa PETG and standart slic3r profile for PETG. No printer cover box.

Posted : 25/06/2017 8:57 am
JeffJordan
(@jeffjordan)
Member Moderator
Re: Unable to print with PetG

Man I can't get the first layer of petg to stick to the bed at all. I put tons of glue that I normally use for ABS or PLA but this stuff just won't stick. Bed is at 70C, extruder at 240C and nada. Anyone successfully printing with petg filament?

💡 i've to agree with milo's answer. printing PETG should be as easy as PLA !
from the pictures you've posted at the "Offset layers in print" i can see that you first layer setup isn't right. you "lay down" your first layer instead of "squishing it" at the surface with the required pressure. i assume that's why you need to use glue (which you normally only need in rare cases when printing stuff like abs).

➡ if your first layer calibration (the adjust live - z value) isn't right, you'll notice it earlier with PETG as with PLA. PLA is a little bit more "forgiving" at this point.

💡 so first clean up your printbed (get completely rid of the glue remainders !) and get your live z adjustment right. ❗

➡ i've set up an own thread about this, because getting it right with the v2calibration.gcode that came with the printer, is nearly impossible.
read at least the first 5 sites of the thread, you need to find the sweet spot where the layer thickness is at its minimum.
i recommend to use the 4th version of the calibration surface (calibration_surface_PLA_75x75@200um_v4.gcode, you'll find it at the 4th site of the thread)

after you've found the perfect live z adjustment level for your assembly, make sure to clean your pei sheet with 98% - 99% ipa (and about every fifth time with pure acetone) and don't touch the printbed with your fingers before starting the print.

btw.: i often use the translucent PETG from herz (a company here in germany), therefore i set the printbed to 90°C and print it with 255°C nozzle temperature.

dem inscheniör is' nix zu schwör...

Posted : 25/06/2017 9:40 am
borys.m
(@borys-m)
Active Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Unable to print with PetG

Thanks guys. I followed your recommendations and now it's sticking, though I have to "Live Adjust Z" every time I start a new print. For some reason the height doesn't stay the same but I can live with that.
Later bros.

Posted : 01/07/2017 12:26 am
paul.s22
(@paul-s22)
New Member
Re: Unable to print with PetG

Try blue painter's tape, followed by a one application of gluestick... My PETG settings (on a different printer, though, I don't have my I3 Mk2s yet...) are 250c hotend, 70c print bed. I also usually print a raft, or a rim

Posted : 04/07/2017 12:12 am
Milos V.
(@milos-v)
Prominent Member
Re: Unable to print with PetG

I saw some threads, where people mention, that they have to adjust Z before each print. Maybe really something is wrong, but I have another experience with Z adjust. It is very dependent on the PINDA temperature. Especially when printing with bed temperatures around 100°C, it is important to keep PINDA high from the bed before print. I think there is some new feature in the latest firmware about this temperature calibration but I still do it old way and it really works. The point is that during the calibration process before each print, PINDA should check the Z distance from the bed. This result differs in accordance to the PINDA temperature. So ideal way after each print is to move the nozzel to some higher place (my is 130mm height and 100mm right). Important is to use always the similar position.
Also if you cancel the print, especially with PETG/ABS, move the hotend up and give it a while to cool down a little bit. If you start new print immediately, you will most probably have to adjust Z again (go lower).

Milos.

Posted : 04/07/2017 9:10 am
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