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Printing a large surfboard fin  

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MrMik
(@mrmik)
Honorable Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Printing a large surfboard fin

The Colorfabb XT-CF20 print attempt ended in failure due to layer shift at Z 56.5

But this time, I saw what happens.

And, when I removed the print from the bed, I found that there has even been a layer shift at z1.0/1.25. It had no effect on the overall appearance of the print at that low level, so it went unnoticed.

I saw right from the start that there were many gradually growing blobs of material building up, and this continued throughout the print until it failed.

The material oozes too much during non-print moves, then puts a blob somewhere, then gradually ads to the blob until it is so large and strong that it stops the hotend from moving through. Then a layer shift moves the rest of the print sideways so that the nozzle can get past the blob.

The layer shift during the previous print failure (White Polymaker PC-Max) had probably nothing to do with the warping. The bed was gradually warped, but the top layer stays fairly straight. The layer shift occurred from the path of the nozzle being blocked by a blob of fried PC-MAX.

The mechanism for accumulation of blob material is different between PC-Max and Xf-CF20.

With the PC-Max, there is little oozing during non-print moves, but with the Xf-CF20 there is a lot.
The Polymaker PC-Max causes thin spikes of material to form around the top layer of the print. They are not super thin and hair like, more like thin cactus spikes, but sometimes like hairs. Hard to photograph. These thin bits of fresh filament sometinmes touch the sides of the hot end as it keeps moving around, and then they melt against the hotend. The material takes dozens of minutes, or even hours, to accumulate on the hotend in this fashion. Eventually, there is enough material to start running down and dripping off in one browned drop of partially burned PC-Max material. It sets wherever it dropped, and if it is in the right spot to block the nozzle when it comes by again, it causes a sudden layer shift.

I trust you can figure out which of the attached photos show what part of the stuff described above.

So, warping may not be my biggest problem here at the moment.

The oozing of the Xf-CF20 could maybe be addressed with more retraction, or lower temperature, but that would weaken it further.

The deposition of stray cooled PC-Max material on the hotend's sides could be reduced by using the silicone sock. I have some in the mail. Those stray bits that eventually touch the (even with silicone sock still) exposed nozzle could not easily accumulate to a blob large enough to stop the extruder movement. It would either be integrated continuously into the print, or drop off in many small bits that may or may not have a cosmetic impact.

Napsal : 24/12/2016 7:40 am
MrMik
(@mrmik)
Honorable Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Printing a large surfboard fin

This photos shows both layer shifts in this print.

First shift between layers 4 and 5, the responsible blob is visible, too.

Napsal : 24/12/2016 7:47 am
MrMik
(@mrmik)
Honorable Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Printing a large surfboard fin

I think I'm beginning to understand how warping works.

In a heated print chamber, at an air temperature close to the glass transition temperature of the deposited material, annealing is constantly in progress. There should be next to no warping, and no need to anneal the printed object after printing is finished.

So, I need a heated print chamber.

I don't think I'll achieve 150C air temp without a major effort, but I might be able to get close to 100C to 'anneal' Polymaker PC-Max while printing.

For this, I need the heated bed to be hot on the surface, not underneath, so I have installed a cork tile under the bed. Thanks to Joan for the suggestion! I even had a suitable tile lying around in my treasure trove. 6mm thick is a bit too much, I had to install screws that are a bit longer than the originals, and had to grind a bit off the metal frame so the new screws do not touch it when the Y axis moves. I did not have longer screws with a flat head, only the ones with a protruding head. 5 minutes with a tungsten bit in the Dremel and it all runs smoothly again.
And now the bed heats up to 120C comfortably.

The next step is to design and print an enclosure.

Napsal : 26/12/2016 7:15 am
MrMik
(@mrmik)
Honorable Member
Topic starter answered:
Printing a heated chamber

I hope this works, because I'm fresh out of ideas if it does not. 😀

Print settings etc:
Wanderfalke-2-1-Whale_UTFB_1-5-1-3-3-3-7-8_PC-Plus_0p25mm.gcode
Acetone clean earlier on

SLIC3R_Settings
0.25mm_Peregrine-PC-Max_2016-12-26
0.25mm layers
0.25mm first layer
Perimeters 3
Solid layers: Top 9, bottom 25
Extra perimeters if needed
Avoid crossing perimeters
Detect bridging perimeters
Seam position: Aligned
NOT: External perimeters first
Infill 10% cubic
Infill before perimeters
No skirt
Brim 8mm
NOT Generate support material
Speed: Left unchanged from PRUSA settings.
Advanced tab:
All extrusion widths set to 0.5mm

Polymaker-PC-Plus_EM1.053_270-120_NoFan_2016-12-26
Nozzle 270C
Bed 120C all layers
Enable Auto Cooling
Min 0%
Max 0%
Bridges 0%
Disable fan first 1000 layers
Cooling thresholds
fan below layer time below 20sec
slow down when layer time below 25sec
Minimum print speed 1mm/s

Original_Prusa_i3_MK2_with_ZHop_X100-Y200-Z200
G1 X100 Y200 Z200; move X axis off centre and lift extruder for cleaning

Wanderfalke-2-1-Whale_UTFB_1-5-1-3-3-3-7-8-enclosure-highres.scad
// Wanderfalke-2-1_UTFB_V1-4-x includes lengthening of the UTFB to be flush with the forward knuckle and "Mouse Ears" against falling over on the print bed.
// Wanderfalke-2-1_UTFB_1-5-0 has mini-cylinders of 0.1mm radius to make the fin base solid for mechanical strength.
// v 1-5-0-refines design to be printed front side down.
// V 1-5-0-4-x is intended to have a thin continuous base to prevent moves between parts and sagging of overhangs
// V1-5-1-x uses the high resolution STL
$fn=80;

// Modified sphere to encompass the fin. Smaller version differenced from the larger version to make a hollow shell.

translate([34.9,107,0]){

// Closed base plate to prevent air entry if warping
difference(){
resize(newsize=[1550,275,70])
sphere(r=200, centre=true);
translate([0,-400,-400])
cube([800,800,800]);

translate([-800.2,-400,-400])
cube([800,800,800]);
}

color ("green"){
difference(){
resize(newsize=[1550,275,70])
sphere(r=200, centre=true);

resize(newsize=[1548.5,273.5,68.5])
sphere(r=200, centre=true);

translate([0,-400,-400])
cube([800,800,800]);

translate([-960,-400,-400])
cube([800,800,800]);
}}}

// Rectangular bottom plate joining the rounded pads
translate([33.9,0,-10])
cube ([1,220,20]);

// Blue side stabilisers
// moving them for BLEF fin by 4.9mm
translate([4.9,0,0])
union(){
color("blue"){
//Union stabiliser 1
union(){
translate([30,45,0])
rotate([0,90,0])
rotate([180,0,0])
rotate([0,0,-90])
union(){
intersection(){
cylinder(h = 44, r1 = 30, r2 = 1, center = true/false);
rotate([0,-90,0])
cube([90,80,0.8], center=true);}}}

// Union stabiliser 2
union(){
translate([30,80,0])
rotate([0,90,0])
rotate([180,0,0])
rotate([0,0,-90])
union(){
intersection(){
cylinder(h = 25, r1 = 30, r2 = 1, center = true/false);
rotate([0,-90,0])
cube([80,80,0.8], center=true);}}}

// Union stabiliser 3
union(){
translate([30,205,0])
rotate([0,90,0])
rotate([180,0,0])
rotate([0,0,-90])
union(){
intersection(){
cylinder(h = 45, r1 = 30, r2 = 1, center = true/false);
rotate([0,-90,0])
cube([100,80,0.8], center=true);}}}}}

// Turqoise for front wall
color("turquoise"){

// Removing the fin area from the thin wall so it does not interfere with the internal structure of the fin and base
difference(){

translate([-45.1,0,-0.4])
// The thin continuous wall at the leading edge will need to be removed after printing.

cube ([80,220,0.8]);

// Thin vertical slices to prevent warping forces building up along the length of the wall, turning it into a lattice:
// Moving them all by 3.9mm for BLEF fin

translate([3.9,0,0])
union(){
translate([-40,5,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,10,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,15,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,20,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,25,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,30,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,35,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,40,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,50,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,55,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,60,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);

translate([-40,65,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,70,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,75,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);

translate([-40,85,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,90,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,95,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,100,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,105,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,110,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);

translate([-40,115,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,120,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,125,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,130,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,135,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,140,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);

translate([-40,145,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,150,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,155,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,160,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,165,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,170,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);

translate([-40,175,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,180,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,185,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,190,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,195,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,200,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);

translate([-40,210,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
translate([-40,215,-0.4])
cube([70,0.5,0.8]);
}

resize([0,240,0], auto=true)
import("/media/p/Shared_NTFS_2/3D_printing_stuff/finFoils/Wanderfalke_2_1_4_5_v1.1.1-highres.stl");}
}

// Proximal mouse ear for base
//rotate([90,0,0])
translate([32.9,-12,0])
rotate([0,90,0])
//difference(){
cylinder (r1=15, r2=30, h=2);
//translate([-30,17,0])
//cube(size = 60);}

// Mouse ear for stabilisers 1 and 2:
translate([32.9,62,0])
rotate([0,90,0])
//difference(){
cylinder (r1=15, r2=38, h=2);

// Mouse ear for knuckle
translate([30,149,0])
rotate([0,90,0])
resize(newsize=[25,50,4.9])
cylinder (r1=17, r2=55, h=6.9);

// Mouse ear for distal end:
translate([32.9,205,0])
resize([2,50,64])
rotate([0,90,0])
//difference(){
cylinder (r1=15, r2=32, h=2);

// H-shaped plate
//color ("red")
//translate([29.15,140,50])
//rotate([0,90,0])
//linear_extrude (height = 0.8, centre = false, twist = 0)
//polygon([[60,40],[55,17],[45,17],[40,40],[20,40],[20,-30],[40,-30],[45,0],[55,0],[60,-30],[80,-30],[80,40]]);

difference(){
// Union to difference cylinders from fin and UTFB
union(){
// Disable the base plate when printing fin without UTFB. The base plate purpose is to get rid of gaps between rounded UTFB tab edges and bottom of plug
color("blue")
translate([-41.25,-2,0])
cube([77,4,9.1], center=true);

// Insert UTFB here when needed for UTFB printing. Move it to the position marked below when making a fin-only file.

// Union of UTFB to allow importing the entire UTFB-tab into another OpenScad file
// Change translate values to move it in place for different fin base lengths
// Fow Wanderfalke_1-9 use translate([-116.385,-22, -4.5])
translate([-121,-22, -4.5])
rotate([0,0,90])
union(){

// To remove the BSP markers by 'differencing' the UTFB-Mould from it:
difference(){

// To rotate the UTFB; It was required to allow 2D printing of outline in an earlier development step:
rotate([90,0,0]){

union(){

// This makes the fin base green in Preview:
color("green",0.5){

// Minkowski sum three times to round the base edges:
minkowski(){
minkowski(){
minkowski(){

// Linear Extrude length of the fin base is reduced to compensate for elongation due to Minkowski sum. Actual length after Minkowski was 150mm in initial UTFB versions (height=146); reduced to 135mm (height = 131) in Wanderfalke_1-9-cored_UTFB_2-3.scad. For Wanderfalke_2-1 use height = 148 (first versions had 146 but that makes front of base float above print bed)
linear_extrude (height = 152.9, centre = false, twist = 0)

// Polygon points brought closer together to compensate for enlargement due to Minkowski sum. Without Minkowski sum use the actual intended size.

// 9.2mm wide fin base with small taper at bottom to ease entry into the fin box.

// Use these dimensions instead for 9.2mm fin base without taper: polygon(points=[[0,2.9],[0,7.1],[19,7.1],[19,2.9]]);

polygon(points=[[0,3.1],[0,6.9],[1.5,7.1],[19,7.1],[19,2.9],[1.5,2.9]]);

// 3 cylinders, each rotated differently, to round off the fin base edges with the Minkowski Sum function:

cylinder(r=1,h=1); }

rotate([0,90,0])
cylinder(r=1,h=1); }

rotate([90,0,0])
cylinder(r=1,h=1); }

// defines end of GREEN color for base:
}
}
}

// Hole for aft pin
translate([7,-6,9.1])
cylinder(h = 20, r = 2.5, center = true);

// Cutting out cylinders for ball spring plungers:

// First forward BSP:
// Move cylinder cutout for BSP
translate([7,-17,9.1])
// cylinder for BSP
cylinder(h = 20, r = 4.1, center = true);

// First forward BSP outer wide part:
// Move cylinder cutout for BSP
translate([7,-17,9.1])
// cylinder for BSP
cylinder(h = 1.25, r = 4.35, center = true);

// 2nd BSP:
// Move cylinder cutout for BSP
translate([9,-37,9.1])
// cylinder for BSP
cylinder(h = 20, r = 4.1, center = true);

// 2nd BSP outer wide part:
// Move cylinder cutout for BSP
translate([9,-37,0])
// cylinder for BSP
cylinder(h = 1.25, r = 4.35, center = true);

// 3rd
// Move cylinder cutout for BSP
translate([11,-57,9.1])
// cylinder for BSP
cylinder(h = 20, r = 4.1, center = true);

// 3rd wide part
// Move cylinder cutout for BSP
translate([11,-57,9.1])
// cylinder for BSP
cylinder(h = 1.25, r = 4.35, center = true);

// 4th
// Move cylinder cutout for BSP
//translate([13,-66,9.1])
// cylinder for BSP
//cylinder(h = 20, r = 4.1, center = true);

// 5th
// Move cylinder cutout for BSP
//translate([13,-83,9.1])
// cylinder for BSP
//cylinder(h = 20, r = 4.1, center = true);

// 6th
// Move cylinder cutout for BSP
translate([11,-90,9.1])
// cylinder for BSP
cylinder(h = 20, r = 4.1, center = true);

// 6th wide part
// Move cylinder cutout for BSP
translate([11,-90,0])
// cylinder for BSP
cylinder(h = 1.25, r = 4.35, center = true);

// 7th
// Move cylinder cutout for BSP
translate([9,-110,9.1])
// cylinder for BSP
cylinder(h = 20, r = 4.1, center = true);

// 7th wide part
// Move cylinder cutout for BSP
translate([9,-110,9.1])
// cylinder for BSP
cylinder(h = 1.25, r = 4.35, center = true);

// 8th
// Move cylinder cutout for BSP
translate([7,-130,9.1])
// cylinder for BSP
cylinder(h = 20, r = 4.1, center = true);

// 8th wide part
// Move cylinder cutout for BSP
translate([7,-130,0])
// cylinder for BSP
cylinder(h = 1.25, r = 4.35, center = true);

// Front pin hole.
translate([7,-143,9.1])
// cylinder for BSP
cylinder(h = 20, r = 2.5, center = true);
}
}
// End of UTFB tab

// Making the fin hollow:
//difference(){
//Importing the Wanderfalke_2-1 fin file
// Disable next 2 lines to make a file for the plug without the fin (must also move Union of UTFB to right location).

resize([0,240,0], auto=true)
import("/media/p/Shared_NTFS_2/3D_printing_stuff/finFoils/Wanderfalke_2_1_4_5_v1.1.1-highres.stl");

}

// Making the Slic3r print the base solid by differencing thin cylinders from lower 1/3 of fin:

color("red")
rotate ([270,0,0])
translate ([-20,-0,-20])
union(){

// Front screw hole disabled - it causes a weak spot for layer separation due to warping. Consider re-introducing it later with very small radius as guide for drilling:
//translate([36.5,0,-5])
//cylinder (r=2.1,h=45);

translate([0,0,0])
union(){

// Forward Bump solidifier cylinders
translate([57.5,0,160])
//rotate ([270,0,0])
union(){
translate([-1.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-3,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-4.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-6,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-7.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-9,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-10.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
}

// Group of 17 short cylinders aft
translate([-127.5,0,0])
union(){

translate([37.5,0,0])
union(){
translate([-1.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-3,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-4.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-6,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-7.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-9,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-10.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
}
translate([45,0,0])
union(){
translate([-1.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-3,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-4.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-6,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-7.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
}
translate([52.5,0,0])
union(){
translate([-1.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-3,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-4.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-6,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-7.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);}
}

translate([-67.5,0,0])
union(){
translate([-1.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=45);
translate([-3,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=40);
translate([-4.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=35);
translate([-6,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=30);
translate([-7.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=25);}

translate([-60,0,0])
union(){
translate([-1.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=53);
translate([-3,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=52);
translate([-4.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=51);
translate([-6,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=50);
translate([-7.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=49);}

translate([-52.5,0,0])
union(){
translate([-1.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=58);
translate([-3,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=57);
translate([-4.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=56);
translate([-6,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=55);
translate([-7.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=54);}

translate([-45,0,0])
union(){
translate([-1.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=62);
translate([-3,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=61);
translate([-4.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=60);
translate([-6,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=60);
translate([-7.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=59);}

translate([-37.5,0,0])
union(){
translate([-1.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=69);
translate([-3,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=68);
translate([-4.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=66);
translate([-6,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=64);
translate([-7.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=62);}

translate([-30,0,0])
union(){
translate([-1.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=74);
translate([-3,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=73);
translate([-4.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=72);
translate([-6,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=71);
translate([-7.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=70);}

translate([-22.5,0,])
union(){
translate([-1.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=85);
translate([-3,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=82);
translate([-4.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=78);
translate([-6,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=76);
translate([-7.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=75);}

translate([-15,0,0])
union(){
translate([-1.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=101);
translate([-3,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=97);
translate([-4.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=93);
translate([-6,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=89);
translate([-7.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=85);}

translate([-7.5,0,0])
union(){
translate([-1.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=125);
translate([-3,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=120);
translate([-4.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=115);
translate([-6,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=110);
translate([-7.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=105);}

// Longest set just aft of notch
union(){
translate([-1.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=150);
translate([-3,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=145);
translate([-4.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=140);
translate([-6,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=135);
translate([-7.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=130);}

// elevated group of cylinders front
translate([7.5,0,50])
union(){
translate([-1.5,0,7]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=19);
translate([-3,0,4]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=30);
translate([-4.5,0,1]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=41);
translate([-6,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=62);
translate([-7.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=83);}

translate([7.5,0,0])
union(){
translate([-1.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=19);
translate([-3,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=20);
translate([-4.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=21);
translate([-6,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=22);
translate([-7.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=23);}

translate([15,0,0])
union(){
translate([-1.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-3,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-4.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=17);
translate([-6,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=17);
translate([-7.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=18);
}
translate([22.5,0,0])
union(){
translate([-1.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-3,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-4.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-6,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-7.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
}
translate([30,0,0])
union(){
translate([-1.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-3,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-4.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-6,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-7.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
}
translate([37.5,0,0])
union(){
translate([-1.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-3,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-4.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-6,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-7.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
}
translate([45,0,0])
union(){
translate([-1.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-3,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-4.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-6,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-7.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
}
translate([52.5,0,0])
union(){
translate([-1.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-3,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-4.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-6,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);
translate([-7.5,0,0]) cylinder (r=0.1,h=16);}

}
}
}
//}

// Insert UTFB here to keep the code in the file when not needed. Move it up to the marked location when making files including the UTFB.

// Add modified sphere to round the forward tip of the plug
// For plug use: translate([-40,-32,0])
// For core use: translate([-40,-31,0])
// To make a fin to be filled with liquid resin: disable the modified sphere intersection.
//intersection(){
//rotate([0,0,-20])
//translate([-40,-32,0])
//translate([-40,-31,0])
//resize(newsize=[100,250,20])
//sphere(r=1);

//union(){

//intersection(){
// Moving smaller fin back inside of larger fin
//translate([-17,0,0])
// Importing file to hollow out the core
// Use scale([900,950,1000]) for the size of hollowed area in fin.
// Use scale([877.5,950,750]) for the size of the plug on the UTFB
//scale([900,950,1000])
//scale([877.5,950,750])
//import("G:\\3D_printing_stuff\\finFoils\\Wanderfalke_1-9-UTFB-1-0-6-3-9.stl");

// Cube to limit width to 9.1mm for fin core plug
//color ("red")
//translate([-120,0,-4.55])
//cube([200,300,9.1]);}}

// Cube to limit width to 9.2mm for hollow fin core
//color ("red")
//translate([-120,0,-4.6])
//cube([200,300,9.2]);}}

//}
//}
// }

Napsal : 26/12/2016 11:20 am
MrMik
(@mrmik)
Honorable Member
Topic starter answered:
z8.75

As always, I'm hopeful ...

Napsal : 26/12/2016 12:18 pm
MrMik
(@mrmik)
Honorable Member
Topic starter answered:
Z89.75

Looking good so far, 66% / Z 89.75

For reasons unknown, no problems with stray bits of plastic accumulating on the hotend, so no brown blobs dripping down and getting in the way.

The 'sacrificial heated enclosure' (SHE) is warping a fair bit, but so far it has held together. That could change any moment I guess. As long as it does not warp so suddenly that the next layer does not end up on top of it, it should be OK.

I'm very tempted to open the enclosure to measure the temperature inside of the 'SHE', but if nothing goes wrong, then I'll leave it closed and measure during the next print.

Napsal : 27/12/2016 2:10 am
MrMik
(@mrmik)
Honorable Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Printing a large surfboard fin

Only problem so far is that the most distal support slat has bent, I don't understand yet how and why. I think it matters not.

The entire bottom layer of the SHE is sticking well to the bed, and I cannot see any bed warping when I point a laser level at it.

Napsal : 27/12/2016 2:24 am
MrMik
(@mrmik)
Honorable Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Printing a large surfboard fin

I think I might have designed the SHE too high.

At Z 102.75 the fins print area splits in two, and I think the warping forces will be greatly reduced and directed somewhat differently. If the fin has not come off the bed by then, it will probably stay.

The SHE continues to layer Z160. It will be nice if it prints perfectly, but it risks total print failure if it warps too much and a bunch of spaghetti gets printed around the fin itself.

Napsal : 27/12/2016 2:33 am
MrMik
(@mrmik)
Honorable Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Printing a large surfboard fin

The worrisome warp of the SHE:

Napsal : 27/12/2016 2:41 am
MrMik
(@mrmik)
Honorable Member
Topic starter answered:
Annealing with boiling water

I'm using a PC-Max fin (the one that I ruined by over-heating in the oven) to experiment annealing options.

Boiling water will stay at 100C, smack-bang in the middle of the annealing temp range recommended by Polymaker.

Unless I let it boil dry, the fin should be safe from over-heating.

The unexpected result of this test run is that the fin leaks in multiple places, bubbles of expanding air escaping as the fin heats up in the water.

When it cools down again, it will suck in water. Maybe it will even suck in water when surfing. That could be prevented by painting the fin I suppose. The leakiness is likely going to be worse with the fin I'm printing at the moment, because external perimeters were reduced from 5 to 3.

I have weighed the (warped) fin and will test how much water gets into it.
I had it in the heating water at about 70C rising to 80C before, but I took it out when bubbles were still rising and dried it quickly. I think there was positive internal pressure in the fin for the entire time it was in the water and little or no water should have entered.

Dry weight of Wanderfalke fin: 187g (it still has a little bit of material that would need to be sanded off)

I'll boil it for about an hour, then remove and dry it quickly, then weigh it again.

Then I'll boil it again and let it cool down in the water, then weigh again when cold.

Napsal : 27/12/2016 3:14 am
MrMik
(@mrmik)
Honorable Member
Topic starter answered:
Annealing in water results

The fin gained no weight when boiled in water for one hour and then removed and dried quickly.

The fin gained 17g weight when boiled for one hour, then left to cool down in the water for a few hours, until luke-warm. So 17ml of water are now in the fin.

In light of this, my plan for annealing the next fin is this:

Annealing procedure:
Bring water to boil when fin is almost finished printing.
Cut off the SHE, cut it in half, anneal one side, not the other (to compare properties later on)
Weigh the fin without the SHE
Turn off heat until no more bubbles are rising.
Submerge fin, watch and take photos/video of bubbles rising.
Turn on heat, boil for 1hr.
Preheat oven to 95C
Turn down oven temp to about 80C.
Take fin out of boiling water, immediately dry and place in 95C oven.
Slowly reduce oven temperature over several hours.

The print is now at z 157.5 and looking perfect. LCD claims 97% done, but I think it will take a while longer, at least if the programmed slowing down for the short layer times in the fin tip works.

Napsal : 27/12/2016 10:15 am
richard.l
(@richard-l)
Member Moderator
Re: Printing a large surfboard fin

I am absolutely intrigued by this. It's like getting an insight into a mad scientists brain. Please continue posting on your progress.

Napsal : 27/12/2016 4:44 pm
MrMik
(@mrmik)
Honorable Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Printing a large surfboard fin

I am absolutely intrigued by this. It's like getting an insight into a mad scientists brain. Please continue posting on your progress.

If the posts suddenly stop, it's because they have locked me up again! 😆

Napsal : 28/12/2016 5:51 am
MrMik
(@mrmik)
Honorable Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Printing a large surfboard fin

The print completed.

The weight of the entire print was 295g, and the fin after removal of most of the support structures weighed 175g.
Probably another 10g had to be ground off, I'll weigh it again later.

Overall it means that about 45% material (and print time) are wasted on sacrificial components. I'm not happy with that.

Napsal : 28/12/2016 5:57 am
MrMik
(@mrmik)
Honorable Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Printing a large surfboard fin

Cleaning up the bumpy front end was a pain. I got several puncture wounds from the sharp edges.

The PC-Max does file and sand well, though.

I had considered to print the fin with the trailing edge down on the support wall, but decided against it because I thought it would be hard to 'find' the trailing edge when removing the additional material. But, that was before I had the idea to turn the support wall into slats. The slats reduce warping and material use, and will clearly define the trailing edge. So, next time I might try to print the fin with the trailing edge down.

Napsal : 28/12/2016 6:15 am
MrMik
(@mrmik)
Honorable Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Printing a large surfboard fin

Unfortunately the whole fin has a twist in it, probably due to the warped base.

Napsal : 28/12/2016 6:20 am
MrMik
(@mrmik)
Honorable Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Printing a large surfboard fin

The printer decided to drop some roasted plastic into the fin tip.

And somehow I managed to severely warp the fin tip while boiling it, and then snapped it off accidentally.

I sanded it back.

Napsal : 28/12/2016 6:22 am
MrMik
(@mrmik)
Honorable Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Printing a large surfboard fin

A bit of good news:

The ball spring plungers fit perfectly, pressed in with vice grip pliers. But, they are not needed, the elastic spring in the warped fin base holds it firmly in the fin box without BSP's.

The fin floats in fresh water, but only just if all 6 BSP's are in the fin. Without BSP's it might be marginally buoyant enough to be found if lost in the surf, but with 6 BSP's it's not going to pop up quick enough between waves.

Napsal : 28/12/2016 6:27 am
MrMik
(@mrmik)
Honorable Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Printing a large surfboard fin

I messed up in my attempt to compare annealed with un-annealed parts.

I should have collected the top of the Sacrificial Heated Enclosure, and annealed half of it. The bottom part and all the parts in contact with the bed at 120C are well and truly annealed after the 25h: 31min print.

Only the top of the SHE could have shown a difference, but I could not reliably identify where the pieces had been.

However, I ripped and broke a bunch of annealed and not annealed parts, and I did not find any that felt much weaker or stronger than the rest. My impression is that might be causing more harm than good.

At the very least, next time I need to inspect and photograph more thoroughly before annealing, so that I can be certain if it has introduced additional warping, twisting or whatever.

Napsal : 28/12/2016 6:35 am
MrMik
(@mrmik)
Honorable Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Printing a large surfboard fin

The Polymaker PB-Max material is much less stiff than the polycarbonate used to print the fins which I bought of Roy Stewart (see first post). The fin has a lot more flex than a fibreglass fin or Roy's polycarbonate fins.

That's probably bad.

Time to go surfing...

Napsal : 28/12/2016 6:45 am
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