[Closed] First layer issues  

RE: First layer issues

the heatbed looks to bet contaminate, 

try cleaning it scrupulously, 

I wash mine with Dish Soap and hot water, flush with clean hot water and dry immediately with a clean paper towel, 

there is a small risk of Rust, but I have never had this problem

Joan

RE: First layer issues

I have cleaned it with ipa and acetone. Repeatedly. That was my first thought as well. 

RE: First layer issues

literally  use soap and water - it really makes a difference - 

RE: First layer issues

Alcohol and acetone, move grease and contamination around, 

soap and water (dish wash detergent) remove the grease!

BUT dry immediately with clean plain paper towel...   ( to prevent the small chance of rusting)

regards Joan

I know this is a textured heatbed, but as you can see, it's clean (was washed with soap and water) and textured plate is notoriously  difficult to get PLA to stick...  but as you can see. there is negligible surface contact, these parts printed easily, and virtually released themselves when the buold plate cooled...   note I used 70C for the build plate for this job!

for adhesion with PLA, Cleanliness of the build plate is the major player

RE: First layer issues

Joan's covered the basics, but I'm going to repeat the key point: With proper cleaning and Live-Z adjustment, you should not have issues with adhesion on the smooth PEI sheet:

• A dirty PEI print surface. Even if you don't think this is the cause, it's always a good idea to make sure your PEI surface is clean before trying any other fixes. If it's a smooth PEI sheet, take it to the kitchen sink and give it a good dunk with Dawn (original formula, no vinegar or hand softener variants) dishwashing soap or your local equivalent (e.g. Fairy in UK). Use a clean paper towel to clean it off, and another to dry it. Avoid using any sponge or cloth that has been in contact with grease. Above all else, avoid touching the PEI print surface. Once it's good and clean, you should be able to use 91%+ isopropyl alcohol between prints, 100% acetone when that fails , and another dunk when acetone fails. Worst-case, use a 3M 7445 ScotchBrite pad or equivalent on smooth PEI to give it a very light buff, but only infrequently. If you've got a textured powder-coated PEI print surface, the official instructions are to use 91%+ isopropyl alcohol on it only. Rumors persist that some tribes deep in the jungle have had good luck getting started with these sheets by giving them a wipe with 100% acetone and a dunk with Dawn. Either way, there's no real warranty on these sheets. YMMV.
• If you have not already done so, try using Jeff Jordan's "Life Adjust" procedure for calibrating your Live-Z setting. It is much easier to use and understand than the on-board routine. It's much easier to make mid-print adjustments accurately with. In general, start high (less negative) and work lower (more negative) in large increments (e.g. 0.1mm) until the filament starts to stick on its own. When you've got your Live-Z setting adjusted properly, you should be able to gently rub the extruded lines on the PEI surface without dislodging them.  Then start lowering (more negative) the level until there are no gaps between layers.    

RE: First layer issues

You all are very correct.  I did use the soap and water, cleaned the bed and guess what........problem solved.  You guys are great, appreciate your persistence in the cleaning of the bed.  Next time I will listen to the "experts".  Thanks so much.

RE: First layer issues

Some people prefer to test the options that others have already found wanting, before accepting the suggestions that others have found beneficial 

the forums are full of 'Pet Cures'    some of which may work for some people...   

I found that a number of these cures, including :-

Painters tape,

Glue Stick,

Hair Spray, 

Patent Glues and sprays,

other build surfaces,

Glass build plates

ABS Juice

All have disadvantages for PLA adhesion...   yes they work but often mark the build surface side of the models. and often need cleaning off afterwards, when the previously non printed areas build up a surplus of the preferred alternative.

IPA can work... but only if used in the correct instances and manners, e.g.

spraying on a hot build plate, is a waste of time, it will evaporate and not remove the contamination...   
Applying IPA to paper towels and wiping the build plate tends to soak the towel, but not remove the contamination on the build plate...  

using acetone, lead to cracks starting to appear in my PEI sticker... so I don't use it anymore.

but there is always someone else with a different view...   so look, listen, make your own mind up, about what works and is acceptable for you...

I hope you get to enjoy 3d printing for a long time, 

regards Joan

RE: First layer issues

@joantabb

do you use glue?

RE: First layer issues

Hi Cameron, 

No I don't use glue...    if I need an adhesion inhibiter I use Windex, Talcum powder or Finger grease, usually for PETG or TPU...  I find that gluestick leaves a mess on the build plate... 

For PLA I use dish detergent/soap and water , rinsed with HOT water, and dried immediately with Paper towels,  on either smooth build plates or textured build plates!
I haven't used my smooth build plate for months... 

regards Joan