Calibrate Real Filament PETG Settings
Hi fellow Prusa users 🙂
I recently made the upgrade to the MKS version of the printer. As my NGEN did run out i ordered some PETG from "Real Filament" company.
Its quite cheap and easy to get by in Europe: https://reprapworld.com/products/filament/real_filament/petg/real_petg_smoky_black_spool_of_1kg_1_75mm/
Unfortunately the Prusa Settings for PET did not do the trick for me and i had to search the net quite a bit to find settings that produce good prints.
Here i want to share my settings as i think they are quite good for PETG but also want to get some hints to dial it in a bit better and make it perfect 😀
You can Download my Settings for the Prusa Scli3r here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6IyuWA33ROBTE9zT1Z2VGNRS2c
Here is my best print so far with the settings from above.
What could i try for a better top finish?
There is some filemant in one of the holes. Ideas why just one? Thanks
What could cause these "lines" ?
If you have any suggestions how to make it look even better i would greatly appreciate them! 😀
PS: Yes that is PEI on the botton. This PETG sticks like hell. Make sure to cool the bed before removing.
Thanks for your help and have fun with the settings 🙂
Re: Calibrate Real Filament PETG Settings
If you clean the PEI with Windex window cleaner, it leaves behind a residue that will prevent the PETG from sticking so well, but still stick plenty.
You should NOT do PET on PEI clean due to this adhesion. I like windex, but some use glue stick.
Since I don't have, nor do I want, a google account, I can't see your settings. It would be better if you added them as an attachment (ZIPed if needed).
I think you should slow the printing down some to improve your print quality.
Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage or loss. If you solve your problem, please post the solution…
Re: Calibrate Real Filament PETG Settings
I think you have under extrusion. Possibly because you seem to print at 235 degrees, which is too cold. Try 245 for better results.
Re: Calibrate Real Filament PETG Settings
Hi
i calibrated my extruder and tinkerd with some settings and it helped even more 🙂
Is there an alternative for Windex cleaner in Europe ? US import is like 60 € per Bottle....
I will post pics soonish 🙂
Re: Calibrate Real Filament PETG Settings
I would think there is a European equivalent. It is just a window cleaner.
Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage or loss. If you solve your problem, please post the solution…
Re: Calibrate Real Filament PETG Settings
s there an alternative for Windex cleaner in Europe ? US import is like 60 € per Bottle....
Im using a brand named Ajax (Sweden). This is manufactured by Colgate so i bet it will be available almost everywhere but maybe under different name.
I think any of the blueish window cleaner will work.
---
Gert
Re: Calibrate Real Filament PETG Settings
if you are from the netherlands, you could try glassex instead of windex. Or the knock-off from action, which works just as well.
I am using the orange petg from real and have found that it prints best at 245 nozzle and 70 degrees bed. all other settings i have left as is from the prusa pet tab and just saved the adjustments to a new filament profile.
My prints are just as good as with pla so i'm happy with these settings.
Before every print i clean the bed with glassex and prints come off without any drama.
Adjust your z-height so it just sticks well enough to the bed that you have to push it with a fingernail to make it come loose but not so much that you have to scratch it and you'll be fine.
good luck printing real petg ☺
Re: Calibrate Real Filament PETG Settings
Hi Patrick,
Thanks for the replay. I found out that the blue ajax cleaer also works good 🙂
As for the settings, i have to really print slow 10ms so the outer layers look really good. Did you achieve better results with higher speeds ? (I uploaded a picture to my google files, they are updated now too :-))
I printed a temp tower and i seem to geht the best results with 335 degrees of the nozzle 245 is melting some fine structures. But even with 335 degrees i get fine hairs, stringing but it got better.
Any other ideas ?