Upgraded Y axis belt tensioner  

Re: Upgraded Y axis belt tensioner

Honestly I have no idea why that is happening. I exported the file the same way I did the others. Just for frame of reference if you want to scale it down, the washer is 7.5 mm in diameter. any input as to why this is happening?

Matthew, check these settings in Inventor, then the STL files will be correct.
Export STL dialog box and Document settings units.

Re: Upgraded Y axis belt tensioner

this looks really slick.

I was frustrated at that part of the install and just put some extra long bolts onto the pulley holder so I could easily slip the belt on and then use the bolts to tighten it.

Cool, this is exactly why I designed this. Having the idler relying on the two long bolts holding the mount seems like it could get frustrating.

RHDreambox - I will definitely check those document settings. Thank you for your upgrades for the prusa also!!

Re: Upgraded Y axis belt tensioner

I just printed a set and will make it up tomorrow night to see what it look like

How loose should the 'barrel' be in the large hole? For me its too tight to get it through, so i am going to have to file it out a bit.. Should I aim for it to be a snug fit, or does it matter if its a bit floppy.

Also, the M3 holes on the sides are a bit small.. My printer (Printrbot) always tends to flatten them a little, but had no problems with the official Prusa parts and other upgrades.. But yours are really small.. So I think I might have to drill them to size...

Re: Upgraded Y axis belt tensioner

I just printed a set and will make it up tomorrow night to see what it look like

How loose should the 'barrel' be in the large hole? For me its too tight to get it through, so i am going to have to file it out a bit.. Should I aim for it to be a snug fit, or does it matter if its a bit floppy.

Also, the M3 holes on the sides are a bit small.. My printer (Printrbot) always tends to flatten them a little, but had no problems with the official Prusa parts and other upgrades.. But yours are really small.. So I think I might have to drill them to size...

There was an updated version of the frame mount piece. I hope that you saw that update. The hex holes were too narrow on the originally posted model.

I noticed that the m3 holes were a little tight on my printed pieces due to elephants foot. After I cleaned up a little flashing they were snug. The barrel should be able to rotate slightly as it’s adjusted. It can be a little on the looser side considering once it’s under tension it shouldn’t move.

The middle holes should be slots (see the first page to see the slots I’m referring to). The lower pivot holes are supposed to be for a 3mm pin on the adjuster arm. Only one side of the adjuster arm has a thru hole. The other side is counterbored so the pin stops at a certain point.

Re: Upgraded Y axis belt tensioner

Alright, so I redesigned the y axis adjuster arm so now there is less to print and the print itself should be easier. The adjuster barrel isn't used anymore and I don't think the spherical washer is 100% necessary. I've kept those files as well as the original files in the the thingiverse link in case anyone wanted to experiment with them. See the attached screenshot. All originally used hardware remains the same. Once I finish printing my test piece, I will remove the work in progress tag on the thingiverse page.

Re: Upgraded Y axis belt tensioner

Alright, so I redesigned the y axis adjuster arm so now there is less to print and the print itself should be easier. The adjuster barrel isn't used anymore and I don't think the spherical washer is 100% necessary. I've kept those files as well as the original files in the the thingiverse link in case anyone wanted to experiment with them. See the attached screenshot. All originally used hardware remains the same. Once I finish printing my test piece, I will remove the work in progress tag on the thingiverse page.

Nice update.. goimg to use this for sure.. one question, why a 3mm pin for the top hinge, where as a long bolt with locknut would be easier to source.

I do have some pins that i bought becuase the one supplied for the Bondtek idler was too short.. but they are a little short for your application.

I was considering using the ones I have, or buying some longer ones.. but it makes more sense to use a nut and bolt.. is there anything i am overlooking?

Re: Upgraded Y axis belt tensioner

Alright, so I redesigned the y axis adjuster arm so now there is less to print and the print itself should be easier. The adjuster barrel isn't used anymore and I don't think the spherical washer is 100% necessary. I've kept those files as well as the original files in the the thingiverse link in case anyone wanted to experiment with them. See the attached screenshot. All originally used hardware remains the same. Once I finish printing my test piece, I will remove the work in progress tag on the thingiverse page.

Nice update.. goimg to use this for sure.. one question, why a 3mm pin for the top hinge, where as a long bolt with locknut would be easier to source.

I do have some pins that i bought becuase the one supplied for the Bondtek idler was too short.. but they are a little short for your application.

I was considering using the ones I have, or buying some longer ones.. but it makes more sense to use a nut and bolt.. is there anything i am overlooking?

Thats another thing I’ve been going back and forth with but used the pin for two reasons. First because I didn’t want the end user to over tighten the pivot point. I wanted to make it “screw up proof”. Second and less important was because of the way the extruded idler was designed. I also included the step files, this way someone can make the modification if they wanted themselves. Maybe I can add an additional version for those who don’t want to use the pin.

Re: Upgraded Y axis belt tensioner

Matthew is there a new link to thingyverse or just use the same

Re: Upgraded Y axis belt tensioner

Thats another thing I’ve been going back and forth with but used the pin for two reasons. First because I didn’t want the end user to over tighten the pivot point. I wanted to make it “screw up proof”. Second and less important was because of the way the extruded idler was designed. I also included the step files, this way someone can make the modification if they wanted themselves. Maybe I can add an additional version for those who don’t want to use the pin.

Makes perfect sense.. The nyloc nut would simply be used to top the bolt from falling out and would just have to be nipped up until there was no movement of the bolt.

I think i will use the nut/bolt instead of buying a pin, and will drill out the holes to accommodate it and allow it to swivel without binding, rather than re-print

But it would good to have a version which uses a nut/bolt for others, as I think this is an easier solution than a pin.

Jon

Re: Upgraded Y axis belt tensioner

Thats another thing I’ve been going back and forth with but used the pin for two reasons. First because I didn’t want the end user to over tighten the pivot point. I wanted to make it “screw up proof”. Second and less important was because of the way the extruded idler was designed. I also included the step files, this way someone can make the modification if they wanted themselves. Maybe I can add an additional version for those who don’t want to use the pin.

Makes perfect sense.. The nyloc nut would simply be used to top the bolt from falling out and would just have to be nipped up until there was no movement of the bolt.

I think i will use the nut/bolt instead of buying a pin, and will drill out the holes to accommodate it and allow it to swivel without binding, rather than re-print

But it would good to have a version which uses a nut/bolt for others, as I think this is an easier solution than a pin.

Jon

Exactly. I can add the other version in about a half hour or so.

Re: Upgraded Y axis belt tensioner

Thats another thing I’ve been going back and forth with but used the pin for two reasons. First because I didn’t want the end user to over tighten the pivot point. I wanted to make it “screw up proof”. Second and less important was because of the way the extruded idler was designed. I also included the step files, this way someone can make the modification if they wanted themselves. Maybe I can add an additional version for those who don’t want to use the pin.

Makes perfect sense.. The nyloc nut would simply be used to top the bolt from falling out and would just have to be nipped up until there was no movement of the bolt.

I think i will use the nut/bolt instead of buying a pin, and will drill out the holes to accommodate it and allow it to swivel without binding, rather than re-print

But it would good to have a version which uses a nut/bolt for others, as I think this is an easier solution than a pin.

Jon

I added the v3 file

Re: Upgraded Y axis belt tensioner

I got the necessary hardware to assemble this, and installed it tonight to find a show stopping problem. The gap for the pulley is 1mm too narrow.

The pulley is 9mm wide.. The original mount has a 10mm opening for it... And yours is only 8mm...

Am I being stupid and overlooking something obvious?

Jon

Edit: Photo attached

Re: Upgraded Y axis belt tensioner

Any chance of a 16T version of this that works with RHD's 16T Y Axis mod? Link to post: https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3-f30/fine-tune-your-mk3-y-axis-t13851-s40.html#p65495

Re: Upgraded Y axis belt tensioner

I got the necessary hardware to assemble this, and installed it tonight to find a show stopping problem. The gap for the pulley is 1mm too narrow.

The pulley is 9mm wide.. The original mount has a 10mm opening for it... And yours is only 8mm...

Am I being stupid and overlooking something obvious?

Jon

Edit: Photo attached

CIMG0525 cropped.JPG

Lol no not being stupid. But this modification was specifically designed to be used with a 20t toothed idler which the dimensions of which was shown in the thingiverse post. Using the stock pulley, the belt wouldn’t be properly aligned as the 20t pulley would anyway since the root diameters are different. It may not be a major misalignment.

I might make a separate post specifically for the 16t pulley as asked for by Brigandier, maybe I can also make one for the stock pulley too.

Re: Upgraded Y axis belt tensioner

I got the necessary hardware to assemble this, and installed it tonight to find a show stopping problem. The gap for the pulley is 1mm too narrow.

The pulley is 9mm wide.. The original mount has a 10mm opening for it... And yours is only 8mm...

Am I being stupid and overlooking something obvious?

Jon

Edit: Photo attached

CIMG0525 cropped.JPG

Lol no not being stupid. But this modification was specifically designed to be used with a 20t toothed idler which the dimensions of which was shown in the thingiverse post. Using the stock pulley, the belt wouldn’t be properly aligned as the 20t pulley would anyway since the root diameters are different. It may not be a major misalignment.

I might make a separate post specifically for the 16t pulley as asked for by Brigandier, maybe I can also make one for the stock pulley too.

Doh.. I missed that.. I will go back to the stock mount I think... Thanks.

Re: Upgraded Y axis belt tensioner

I got the necessary hardware to assemble this, and installed it tonight to find a show stopping problem. The gap for the pulley is 1mm too narrow.

The pulley is 9mm wide.. The original mount has a 10mm opening for it... And yours is only 8mm...

Am I being stupid and overlooking something obvious?

Jon

Edit: Photo attached

CIMG0525 cropped.JPG

Lol no not being stupid. But this modification was specifically designed to be used with a 20t toothed idler which the dimensions of which was shown in the thingiverse post. Using the stock pulley, the belt wouldn’t be properly aligned as the 20t pulley would anyway since the root diameters are different. It may not be a major misalignment.

I might make a separate post specifically for the 16t pulley as asked for by Brigandier, maybe I can also make one for the stock pulley too.

Doh.. I missed that.. I will go back to the stock mount I think... Thanks.

No worries. I’ll be able to make this for the stock pulley and the 16t as well. Only problem is I won’t be able to work on it until Tuesday so I’ll post on here when it’s uploaded.

Re: Upgraded Y axis belt tensioner

No worries. I’ll be able to make this for the stock pulley and the 16t as well. Only problem is I won’t be able to work on it until Tuesday so I’ll post on here when it’s uploaded.

Now i have printed it, i am wondering if i should just get a 20T idler? Is it accepted that this is a worthwhile upgrade? Do i need to change the pully on the end of the motor too? Do you have to twist the belt so the teeth engage with the pully?

Re: Upgraded Y axis belt tensioner

No worries. I’ll be able to make this for the stock pulley and the 16t as well. Only problem is I won’t be able to work on it until Tuesday so I’ll post on here when it’s uploaded.

Now i have printed it, i am wondering if i should just get a 20T idler? Is it accepted that this is a worthwhile upgrade? Do i need to change the pully on the end of the motor too? Do you have to twist the belt so the teeth engage with the pully?

Dunno if we can necessarily prove anything, but by the GT standard, the smooth idler is too small. I got my toothed idlers on Amazon for cheap, both 20T and 16T. If you are reprinting the idler mount, you might check out the 16T version I linked above and get a more logical setup all around. 🙂

Re: Upgraded Y axis belt tensioner

No worries. I’ll be able to make this for the stock pulley and the 16t as well. Only problem is I won’t be able to work on it until Tuesday so I’ll post on here when it’s uploaded.

Now i have printed it, i am wondering if i should just get a 20T idler? Is it accepted that this is a worthwhile upgrade? Do i need to change the pully on the end of the motor too? Do you have to twist the belt so the teeth engage with the pully?

I personally like the idea of an idler with two bearings as opposed to the one bearing idler that prusa supplies. As for performance with ringing issues I can’t really speak about that as I haven’t been able to test it. I think I paid a little over $2 for the idler with free shipping so it’s not too bad of a price. The location of where this idler is mounted will put the top of the belt parallel to the bed so there is no alignment issues there. You will NOT need a new motor pulley, it’s designed to be used with the stock motor pulley and the belt will NOT need to be twisted. Essentially a replacement modification. Make sure that if you do buy the 20t idler, that dimensions match the pulley that I listed on the thingiverse page. IIRC, reprap was the manufacturer of the idler.

Re: Upgraded Y axis belt tensioner

I personally like the idea of an idler with two bearings as opposed to the one bearing idler that prusa supplies. As for performance with ringing issues I can’t really speak about that as I haven’t been able to test it. I think I paid a little over $2 for the idler with free shipping so it’s not too bad of a price. The location of where this idler is mounted will put the top of the belt parallel to the bed so there is no alignment issues there. You will NOT need a new motor pulley, it’s designed to be used with the stock motor pulley and the belt will NOT need to be twisted. Essentially a replacement modification. Make sure that if you do buy the 20t idler, that dimensions match the pulley that I listed on the thingiverse page. IIRC, reprap was the manufacturer of the idler.

Cheers for that.. I have ordered some GT2 toothed pulleys, but they are from China so will take some time to arrive.

So for now, I will either use the stock mount, or wait for your re-design and use that.. Then, in the future, I will "upgrade" to the toothed setup...

Cheers