Printing was great, until I calibrated and now I can't get a good print
I've been printing on my MK3 for around 2 weeks now, after some initial hiccups and a lot of calibration I was getting consistently good prints for several days. I noticed there were some issues with adhesion to the build plate and some messy extra PLA being extruded starting earlier today, and some stringing that hadn't occurred before so I cleaned my print bed and thought I might as well do XYZ calibration, and then all of the calibration steps again just in case there was any way to improve the settings. After that, and doing first-layer calibration 4 times to get it right like it was before, I am unable to get a good print, even after doing the calibrations over again (including temperature calibrations, bed level, xyz, z, first layer, and mesh bed leveling). Here is a simple male ball joint that I printed a little while ago (previously this part printed flawlessly). At the top of the print a big extra dallop of PLA was extruded which stuck to the nozzle and dragged the print along with it after the print was finished.
Notice the irregular spacing on the brim and the extra blob of PLA stuck to the top of the object (the top of this object is flat). This blob adhered to the nozzle.
Does anyone have any advice on what I should do? This object previously printed just fine and no matter of calibration seems able to get me back to the sweet results I was getting yesterday.
Also, Under settings>move axis>extruder I've noticed that this number hasn't changed since I used it to move PLA forward after cleaning the nozzle (currently at +40 something), is this something that should be zeroed out, or has any sort of calibration steps? I don't see anything in the manual about that setting.
Re: Printing was great, until I calibrated and now I can't get a good print
If anyone can help I'm having a similar problem. I had to replace a thermistor in the hot end. Everything went as planned. Reset and recalibrated. Did a first layer test and dialed it in. I'm slicing with slic3r and uploading to octoprint. I'm on the latest version of octoprint and the latest version of prussa. I needed to reprint a part that needed to be scaled and the blobbing is so bad I can't get past the first layer. Tried multiple times with many changes settings and nothing works. It fails on the first layer. Out of frustration I tried a benchy off the SD card and it started to print ok. I stopped after 20% only because I don't need a benchy. Any thoughts?
Re: Printing was great, until I calibrated and now I can't get a good print
If anyone can help I'm having a similar problem. I had to replace a thermistor in the hot end. Everything went as planned. Reset and recalibrated. Did a first layer test and dialed it in. I'm slicing with slic3r and uploading to octoprint. I'm on the latest version of octoprint and the latest version of prussa. I needed to reprint a part that needed to be scaled and the blobbing is so bad I can't get past the first layer. Tried multiple times with many changes settings and nothing works. It fails on the first layer. Out of frustration I tried a benchy off the SD card and it started to print ok. I stopped after 20% only because I don't need a benchy. Any thoughts?
Re: Printing was great, until I calibrated and now I can't get a good print
If anyone can help I'm having a similar problem. I had to replace a thermistor in the hot end. Everything went as planned. Reset and recalibrated. Did a first layer test and dialed it in. I'm slicing with slic3r and uploading to octoprint. I'm on the latest version of octoprint and the latest version of prussa. I needed to reprint a part that needed to be scaled and the blobbing is so bad I can't get past the first layer. Tried multiple times with many changes settings and nothing works. It fails on the first layer. Out of frustration I tried a benchy off the SD card and it started to print ok. I stopped after 20% only because I don't need a benchy. Any thoughts?
Re: Printing was great, until I calibrated and now I can't get a good print
How does the "live Z" look?
(Calibrate first layer)
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Re: Printing was great, until I calibrated and now I can't get a good print
If anyone can help I'm having a similar problem. I had to replace a thermistor in the hot end. Everything went as planned. Reset and recalibrated. Did a first layer test and dialed it in. I'm slicing with slic3r and uploading to octoprint. I'm on the latest version of octoprint and the latest version of prussa. I needed to reprint a part that needed to be scaled and the blobbing is so bad I can't get past the first layer. Tried multiple times with many changes settings and nothing works. It fails on the first layer. Out of frustration I tried a benchy off the SD card and it started to print ok. I stopped after 20% only because I don't need a benchy. Any thoughts?
Just to get you right, you have a problem while using slicer+octoprint.
And you get good results while printig from SD.
That has nothing to do with the Problem austin.a2 is writing about.
Wer freundlich fragt bekommt auch eine freundliche Antwort.
nec aspera terrent
Re: Printing was great, until I calibrated and now I can't get a good print
How does the "live Z" look?
(Calibrate first layer)
Live Z calibration is being performed the same as it was before these issues, I haven't noticed any difference. The live Z runs before every print and hasn't run into any issues (hasn't given me any sort of errors and there's not filament stuck on the nozzle), is there something I should look for in particular?
Re: Printing was great, until I calibrated and now I can't get a good print
Live Z calibration is being performed the same as it was before these issues, I haven't noticed any difference. The live Z runs before every print and hasn't run into any issues (hasn't given me any sort of errors and there's not filament stuck on the nozzle), is there something I should look for in particular?
Live Z calibration is something you have to do to fine tune the first layer.
What is done automatically before each print "Mesh Bed Leveling" only controls the distance from the PINDA sensor down to the bed.
Live Z Calibration adjusts the distance between the nozzle and the bed (First Layer Calibration), and that calibration must be done manually.
Bear MK3 with Bondtech extruder
Re: Printing was great, until I calibrated and now I can't get a good print
Live Z calibration is being performed the same as it was before these issues, I haven't noticed any difference. The live Z runs before every print and hasn't run into any issues (hasn't given me any sort of errors and there's not filament stuck on the nozzle), is there something I should look for in particular?
Live Z calibration is something you have to do to fine tune the first layer.
What is done automatically before each print "Mesh Bed Leveling" only controls the distance from the PINDA sensor down to the bed.
Live Z Calibration adjusts the distance between the nozzle and the bed (First Layer Calibration), and that calibration must be done manually.
I got the terms wrong, I thought live Z was the multi-part test performed every time. I've gone into Live Z, so this is the same thing as as first layer calibration which I've been doing but I can just enter the calibration value manually instead of having to go through the entire calibration process, which is convenient. I've run the first layer calibration several times today and it seems at some random points the PLA just doesn't come out of the nozzle evenly , so I've changed out the nozzle to a new spare one of the same size, re-did all of my calibration using the wizard, followed my mesh bed leveling and several rounds of first layer calibration and using Live z between test prints to try to get it right and I'm still running into the same issue.
I did notice that I was unable to perform the end of step 4 of page 65 of the manual for replacing/changing nozzle (removing the extruder cover) even after all 7 screws identified listed were removed as instructed. I tried pulling it and even removing all screws from the nozzle fan (not just the front 2) and it still wouldn't budge more than like .5mm after applying some force by hand (I didn't want to try splitting it open with a tool in case it were to damage something). I was able to replace the nozzle without removing the extruder cover. I wonder if the cover is somehow melted to the the heating element.
The extruder gears doesn't have any visible jams, dust, or other debris visible in the viewing hole, and I've unloaded and reloaded PLA twice to see if anything unusual occurred and it hasn't. I've cleaned the extruder gears as instructed just in case they were the issue.
Re: Printing was great, until I calibrated and now I can't get a good print
Here is a simple male ball joint that I printed a little while ago (previously this part printed flawlessly). At the top of the print a big extra dallop of PLA was extruded which stuck to the nozzle and dragged the print along with it after the print was finished.
From what you write as well as what your image shows indicates that you have not found the correct Z level for the first layer.
I don't think the error is in the extruder so your attempts to replace nozzles or other components do not improve the case.
Doing XYZ Calibration does not help either. What can help you is to first make a Z calibration (Calibration / Calibrate Z) where the Z-motors of the printer are calibrated to the same initial level.
Then you make a manual Z-level calibration (First layer calibration) where it is necessary to find the right height of the nozzle.
Make a large test area (75x75 mm 0.2 mm thick) where you have plenty of time to calibrate the Z height. Preheat the printer for ten minutes before the test, as well as wash the steel sheet with water and a little detergent so that the filament sticks properly.
When you see the print start approaching a good result, make adjustments up and down in small increments until you find the correct Z value. With small steps, I mean you're just turning one step on the wheel. Look at my example so you understand what I mean.
And slice the test area with Prusa PLA default settings.
Bear MK3 with Bondtech extruder