Filament Idler Clicks, Can't find tension sweetspot  

Re: Filament Idler Clicks, Can't find tension sweetspot

I guess that is one of the reasons why the extruder ist printed in PET and ABS. 😉

Are you sure? That would calm me down a bit!

Yep, just try the search option.
Everything is already well described. Even from Josef himself.
This link is an quick example of what you can expect to find.:
https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3-f30/new-printed-parts-version-r2-b6-t14551.htm
So don´t worry about a bit higher temps.

Happy searching.

Re: Filament Idler Clicks, Can't find tension sweetspot

Hi Alex,

Have you ever sorted out your issue? I have the exact same problem happening and it's driving me nuts!

Loading and unloading filament is absolutely no problem and I don't get any of the clicking sounds. However, as soon as I begin a print, it clicks right off the get go and I can't print a single line even.

Any help is much appreciated!

Never did find the issue for it sorry. I had some prints that I was happy with while the clicking was present. But recently the same issue happened where the gears really seemed to be grinding the filament more and getting clogged in the extruder.

Re: Filament Idler Clicks, Can't find tension sweetspot

Watched the video. Looked like the live-z is way to low, squishing the filament and leaving marks in the bed.

Cramming the extruder nozzle against the bed can actually stop the flow. The xy axis motors are happy to drag the head alone as if nothing is wrong. Once the filament stops the clicking starts and with the bed moving eventually it flows out in an overflow and oscillates and makes a mess, or balls up the filament between the gears and tube. Ben there, done that. Not sure but it may even damage or clog the head with bed material. I had to do the nylon pull afterward also. This happened to me after a driver update messed with the z height, so always zero the z before you update to avoid crashing the nozzle into the bed.

I would suggest setting the live-z to zero and doing the full 12 minute wizard calibration again. The z calibration in the menu is kind of short to tell whats going on, but make sure you start it with the head to high ie. extruding a non-stick noodle rather than to low were you don't know how hard it's pushing on the bed. You may have to run it several times to get the z low enough. Don't turn down the z too quickly or you'll overshoot and could start the problem all over again. Once you get it sticking turn down slightly more to squishing slightly. I would then print the first layer of the PRUSA sign to adjust the live-z. This part has a big enough area that you can see whats going on. You want to just close the gaps between lines.