Pinda Hat (MK2)
Hi,
The PINDA probe being pretty low, it can in some case interact with the printed part, in case of warping or unsticked part. I wanted to help a bit to reduce the possibility for the pinda to pull things below it, so I though of a printed part that make thing 'slide' under it.
Right now, this is a proof of concept.
Being very close to the heater block, I strongly encourage to use ABS or heat resistant material and to avoid PLA. Since it's still a PoC phase, do not use it (yet) for unmonitored prints !
I used very low resolution (0.05 mm) in order to make it smooth and to be sure to minimize any friction possible.
The hat looks like this:
The center is just the size needed to hold the M8 thread, so I used a threaded rod to make a thread in ABS:
Once in place, the black part of the pinda does almost not overreach the central hole, to minimize chance to pull something. No additionnal space is used below it. It's serveral mm from the block heater, that's the part I'm not 100 % sure yet.
You can try it, and make some feed-back.
Here is the Thingiverse with the STL: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1617374
I'm like Jon Snow, I know nothing.
Re: Pinda Hat (MK2)
This is pretty neat, I think I will try this. Trying to print the little MakerFaire PIP robot in ABS also caused warping in overhanging parts so far, and it may be the pinda probe crashed into it. This may very well avoid that.
But I think I will try .2 mm layers + acetone smoothing hoping it is faster than .05 printing.
Re: Pinda Hat (MK2)
Acetone smoothing is a good idea to make it "slidy" . But printing at 0.05 mm is not a big deal to print, it's really small then quick to print.
I'm like Jon Snow, I know nothing.
Re: Pinda Hat (MK2)
My first ABS print, with your design 🙂
I have trouble though on the top surface : some holes appears, like the perimeter is not thick enough. I think I missed something. Is this a problem with the ABS printing (wrong temperature - I chose 240° because the filament was given from 220 to 260) or slicer setting ( I set 0.05 mm detail, 15% infill) ?
Re: Pinda Hat (MK2)
offtopic: I can see your first layer is way too low.
About your problem: I would try lower HE temperature (maybe 230-235), more perimeters, more infill.
Re: Pinda Hat (MK2)
@Oliver
if you are using Slic3r, you should activate "Enable autocooling" in the filament/cooling option, so that small layer are slow down, letting time for the filament to cool down, otherwise it will tend to leak down on the support below.
I'm like Jon Snow, I know nothing.
Re: Pinda Hat (MK2)
@ Christophe, thanks, I will try that.
@ David, You're right, my first layer is way too low but I have difficulties to make it higher 🙁 For my PLA prints, I have Live Adjust Z set to -0.530 and it is fine. When I print ABS, the first layer is way too low but I can't make it higher. Even with Live adjust Z set to +0.500, there is no change on this matter, as if live adjust Z was not working with ABS which is weird. I suspect some kind of override in the slicer setting with ABS profile but I can't see where I can fix this.
Re: Pinda Hat (MK2)
I fixed the distance from the nozzle to the bed by setting Z offset to 0.01 mm in Slicer.
Surprisingly, when this parameter is not 0, the Live adjust Z on the printer has the desired effect but when it is 0, Live adjust Z has no effect at all and my nozzle is to low. I have this issue with ABS and PET, I did not notice this problem with PLA. I will check this when I print PLA again. Now I know what to do, but I don't quite understand why.
I use Firmware 3.0.3.
Re: Pinda Hat (MK2)
Olivier
More heat = less nozzle gap...
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…
Re: Pinda Hat (MK2)
Thanks Peter. I try 250 for the top of the hat.
Re: Pinda Hat (MK2)
Olivier
Not quite what I was meaning.
The hotter the bed, the more it expands and therefore the closer it gets to the nozzle on the first layer.
If you calibrate at one bed temperature and then print at a higher bed temp, the gap will be somewhat smaller (reduced from around 100 microns down to as low as 50 to 60 microns and you are still extruding the filament to produce a first layer height of 150 microns.
You therefore are too close on the first layer when printing ABS.
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…
Re: Pinda Hat (MK2)
Ahhh OK !! I understand now why I have such low first layer when printing PET or ABS and no trouble with PLA !!
Thanks Peter
Re: Pinda Hat (MK2)
One thing I could see is a custom PINDA hat for MK2 that could help with proper calibration of the sensor height in relation to the bottom of the nozzle.
and an 8 inch (200mm) or greater caliper is recommended.
Re: Pinda Hat (MK2)
Hi,
After 6 months of good usage, I finally created a threaded version. The thread used by the PINDA probe seems to be a ISO M8.1, which is not the same as a M8 rode.
There are two versions of the new file, one with deaper thread, but I printed the first version with success.
Thing is still available here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1617374
I'm like Jon Snow, I know nothing.
Re: Pinda Hat (MK2)
Hi,
I just added a MK2S version that fits fine on mine upgraded MK2S extruder body. Would be glad to have feed-back just to be sure that the design is ok for other people 🙂
I'm like Jon Snow, I know nothing.