E3D Titan Areo upgrade for MK2S
Hey all,
I recently built a MK2S kit and have had nothing but problems with my extruder. Is the Titan Aero a worthwhile upgrade for the MK2S? Does anyone have it installed for their MK2S and regret it? Thanks.
Re: E3D Titan Areo upgrade for MK2S
What problems have you been having with your extruder?
Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage or loss. If you solve your problem, please post the solution…
Re: E3D Titan Areo upgrade for MK2S
All sorts of problems. It constantly jams I had to replace the PTFE tubing and during the process the embedded Bowden coupler broke ( I have a new one on order). The thing never can have accurate e-steep calibration. Always under extrudes from stock values by more than 15mm. I have mathematically compensated, but it still does not extrude exactly 100mm. I really only have gotten one decent print out of the machine, and that was a improved spool holder. The nozzle has jammed so many times, I decided to order a new on with the replacement coupler. really frustrating. And those stupid tension screws, I can never seem to get those right. Everyone, seems to say that less tension is better for the feed, etc. However, on my machine more tension appears to be the trick (13mm). It has really been a frustrating experience. I kind of think there may be an issue with my thermocoupler (heating element) and the firmware. The reading I am receiving indicate it is a proper temperature, but all the issues to me scream something is off in the heat department. I thought maybe upgrading to the Titan Areo would solve all my problems. I just want to get some thoughts from others who have made the leap to see if it is worth it, and will it solve my issues.
Re: E3D Titan Areo upgrade for MK2S
Well, there's no "Bowden Coupler" and no thermocouple on this printer.
Replacing the PTFE tube is something that may need doing, but very rarely.
The filament tension screws should neither be too loose nor too tight and the tension should be set for the filament you are printing with.
If you are getting regular blockages, that's most likely due to incorrect settings or a badly prepared or wrongly inserted PTFE tube.
There are solutions to all the problems you mention on this forum.
However, a replacement extruder will not solve your problems; more likely to confuse them and reduce the amount of support that you can derive from here.
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…
Re: E3D Titan Areo upgrade for MK2S
... The nozzle has jammed so many times, I decided to order a new on with the replacement coupler. really frustrating. ...
is the little 30x30x10mm fan at the left side of the extruder running at full speed, as soon as the nozzle temperature reaches 50°C ?
and: is your "environment" cold enough, so that the fan could cool down the coldend below 53°C ? if not, a clogged extruder is nearly inevitable ?
we had several users here at the forum, using an enclosure where the temperature got to hot inside... which caused regular clogging (and bad print quality).
dem inscheniör is' nix zu schwör...
Re: E3D Titan Areo upgrade for MK2S
Peter- I must have an anomaly, because I just replaced the broken embedded Bowden coupler in my V6 the little black ring with feet that goes into the brass ring at the top of the cold end holding the ptfe tube. I ordered the replacement from E3D. I am not sure if thermocoupler is the right term. I was referring to the tube shaped part with wires that goes into the heat block.
Jeff - I have my printer currently not in an enclosure. However, it is in my garage which is not temperate controlled. I live in Florida. My garage can get north of 100 degrees F but I don't think higher than 127F/53C.
I changed the tubing and the nozzle last night. I had one of the top 10 blockages of all time. Liquified plastic was stuck in the heat block threads. I got one block today at 65% of the print being completed, but it was easy to clear. I think I might have had the print speed set too low (75% of normal). I am reprinting at 95% speed and waiting to see what happens. I am getting strange gouges in the outer wall of the print in random places. I'll take a picture and show you when the print is done or fails again, which ever comes first.
Re: E3D Titan Areo upgrade for MK2S
I've been working on a mount for the Titan Aero for the MK2/2S. Haven't finished it yet.
and an 8 inch (200mm) or greater caliper is recommended.
Re: E3D Titan Areo upgrade for MK2S
I've been working on a mount for the Titan Aero for the MK2/2S. Haven't finished it yet.
Hi Aaron.
Did you see this thread: http://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk2-f23/titan-aero-mount-for-mk2s-t4434.html#p34131 ?
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…
Re: E3D Titan Areo upgrade for MK2S
Liquified plastic was stuck in the heat block threads.
Usually happens when the nozzle is not correctly fitted. https://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly
The hot end on the Mk1/2/2S is a 1.75mm direct drive (through a PTFE tube). The MM upgrade uses Bowden tubes, where the extruder motors are not mounted on top of the extruder.
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…