alternative nozzle cooling
At thingiverse I found some interesting cooling designs for the I3, for example this form Spoegler Engineering :
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2065461
The fan duct with the 40mm axial fan is great. But an axial fan has not so much pressure, on the other hand, an radial blower has less air volume. So I look for an bigger axial fan.
http://www.tme.eu/de/details/kd1204pkvx/dc-luefter-12v/sunon/kde1204pkvx/
for comparison an radial blower like the original PRUSA :
http://www.tme.eu/de/details/gb1205pkv1-8ay/dc-luefter-12v/sunon/
To adapt the fan duct there is much more space necessary. I found this modified extruder cover :
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2003467
Fitting these thing together and modified some small details, I create an new extruder cover and nozzle blower :
The red and yellow parts are new
I also add an holder for a 9mm endoscope-camera
and an PINDA protection ring.
Re: alternative nozzle cooling
The 2 parts are fitted together with a screw :
fits perfect for the hotend with "blue sock"
This is a picture from the endoscope camera :
Viewing direction is from the front, not from the side.
Will print this in the next days with Polycarbonate.
Suggestions, criticism and comments are welcome.
Thomas
Re: alternative nozzle cooling
💡 looks very promising !
➡ maybe we could add room for 2 white leds in addition to enlighten the printed part as well. i encountered that the leds inside the usb boroscope camera will degrade the picture quality severely when used, due to reflections and diffusion at the lens cover.
just a little bit nitpicking: the goal is not intended to cool down the nozzle, but the printed part
dem inscheniör is' nix zu schwör...
Re: alternative nozzle cooling
There is a lot of space left for some LEDs 💡
I'm struggling with the printing orientation.
Left side is top on top, right side is upside down :
in both cases, the printing orientation is suboptimal. The surface is not fine, specially for the 90° overhanging areas 🙁
Now, I will try to print it front side down.
Thomas
Re: alternative nozzle cooling
Found another nice axial fan with same pressure as the original Prusa and 4x volume ! 🙂
(and only 15mm height)
http://www.tme.eu/de/details/psd1204phb1af/dc-luefter-12v/sunon/psd1204phb1-a2zfgn/
This evening I will start to print the first parts in PC. Hope this will work.
Thomas
Re: alternative nozzle cooling
Found another nice axial fan with same pressure as the original Prusa and 4x volume ! 🙂
(and only 15mm height)
http://www.tme.eu/de/details/psd1204phb1af/dc-luefter-12v/sunon/psd1204phb1-a2zfgn/
This evening I will start to print the first parts in PC. Hope this will work.
Thomas
Have you tried out this fan yet? About to order one but havent looked to see if the wires and everything are compatible.
Re: alternative nozzle cooling
There is a lot of space left for some LEDs 💡
I'm struggling with the printing orientation.
Left side is top on top, right side is upside down :
P1040660.jpg
P1040659.jpg
in both cases, the printing orientation is suboptimal. The surface is not fine, specially for the 90° overhanging areas 🙁
Now, I will try to print it front side down.
Thomas
maybe you can separate the camera support and just use a dovetail coupling, with the cilinder sliding into position.. nice idea tough! I may give it a try if it will work better than the stock one (possibly is even less noisy than that radial fan!)
Are you using polycarbonate for the print? Is it printing nicely on the mk2 with the e3d sock?
Re: alternative nozzle cooling
Oh sorry, wrong link 😮
This is the right one :
http://www.tme.eu/de/details/psd1204phb1a/dc-luefter-12v/sunon/psd1204phb1-a2zgn/
The fan (without the yellow wire) is fully compatible. It uses more current but the rambo can support it.
Thanks for the tip with the dovetail. It is an alternative for 2 version (with and without the camera support) and maybe easier to print 😎
Yes, I will print all parts in PC because it's much more stronger and heat resistant than the ABS (and PETG). I print with PC-Plus, not PC-Max. It works with stock MK2, print quality is fine, but use an gluestick !
I'vnt print the parts because I zapped my display a few days ago, so first priority is to fix/replace it and then print an ESD-save LCD-cover :ugeek:
Thomas
Re: alternative nozzle cooling
Sweet. Just ordered 2 of those fans.
Now I just need to find a good mount that allows for good directional flow to cool off the parts better.
Re: alternative nozzle cooling
Update :
Fan nozzle is now splitted in 2 parts, the nozzle itself and the separated camera-holder.
The red and green part is mandatory. The yellow part is optional and the orange and grey part is original Prusa. Be careful, the new MK2S Pinda-holder is not usable because it is to big !
Thomas
Re: alternative nozzle cooling
I unfortunately have the MK2S. Do you mind if I try to tweak it a bit to accommodate the MK2S PINDA?
Re: alternative nozzle cooling
Hmmm,
there must be an edge cut off from the right fan-nozzle. Or you use the old MK2 extruder holder.
Thimas
Re: alternative nozzle cooling
I was thinking about having the R nozzle just point forward and making the left one blow as is, or extending it to blow on the side and around.
Do you have links to the files?
Re: alternative nozzle cooling
Original "things" are provided in my first post.
Will link my remake at thingiverse if it is working : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2339029
Thomas
Re: alternative nozzle cooling
Updated the x-carriage to fit for igus RJZM-01-08 or RJM-01-08 (16mm).
Now I'm struggling with the warping of the Polycarbonate at the bigger parts 😕
Will try to raise temperature for the heatbed.
Current settings :
Hotend 260°C
Bed 80°
printing with an 5mm brim
Thomas
Re: alternative nozzle cooling
I have some similar SUNON fans and it doesnt support PWM regulation. (it works only at 100%).
Oh sorry, wrong link 😮
This is the right one :
http://www.tme.eu/de/details/psd1204phb1a/dc-luefter-12v/sunon/psd1204phb1-a2zgn/
Thomas
Re: alternative nozzle cooling
This is probably not a problem. Each newer fan has 4 pins. Not all are connected.
Connect + to permanent 12V, - to minus, solder an wire (blue line) and connect to the Rambo Fan out (former black wire) :
I have not tested it on this fan so far. But I'm sure it will work there too.
Update : Modified and tested now 😀
But, you have to invert the PWM-signal on the output via the M106 P0 I0 Sxxx gcode.
Thomas