Problem printing with transparent PLA on MK3S
I've been having an odd problem while trying to print with 2 different brands of transparent PLA filament. I haven't had this problem with any other filaments, only these transparent ones. They are both from brands that I have had good experiences with before (CCTREE & AMZ3D).
The print will start off fine, then sometimes it will just stop extruding. The print won't stop - it will just keep on going, with no filament coming out. When I stop it, there is no clog, and the filament now has rough ridges in it, almost as if it is having trouble gripping the filament. This is pictured below. If left for long enough, there will be a large divot in the filament. Any suggestions?
RE: Problem printing with transparent PLA on MK3S
I asked the same thing under "Does my clear Prusament hate me". So I will listen in to see if you get a response....I didn't. tee hee.
Andrew
RE: Problem printing with transparent PLA on MK3S
@andrewld
I haven't received any advice yet, but I tried increasing the extruder temperature to 230 °C, and this seemed to solve the problem! It is odd, since the filament has a recommendation of 180-210 °C printed on the spool, but 230 °C works much better!
RE: Problem printing with transparent PLA on MK3S
A few notes on translucent filaments. I mostly use "clear" PETG but the bit of PLA testing I've done has yielded similar results.
- "Transparent" filaments will print translucent at best. The closest you can get to a glassy appearance without special filament or post-processing is to print a single wall in vase mode.
- Thick layer heights also help with transparency.
- If you must print with multiple perimeters and particularly infill, expect a cloudy appearance.
- If heating up the nozzle helps, see if keeping the original nozzle temp with reduced cooling helps. Ramping up the nozzle only to blast it with a fan is likely to cloud the extrusions. Decrease cooling can definitely help. Increase temps if that fails.
- Slow down. I have a vase mode print done using a 1.2mm nozzle with 0.96mm layer heights and 1.44mm extrusion width. Using a max volumetric speed of 15mm^3/s results in a cloudy appearance. Throttling max volumetric speed to 5mm^3/s results in a very clear result.
On mobile now, but will post comparison pics later when I can.
and miscellaneous other tech projects
He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan
RE: Problem printing with transparent PLA on MK3S
I'm currently doing quite a bit of 'transparent' printing for windows in model railroad buildings. I'm not, and never expected transparent results, and for these, translucent is fine.
I've had good luck printing first with Hatchbox 'transparent white' ABS, and when that ran out and I could not get any more I got a roll of Reprappers transparent PETg, which produces almost identical finished items.
A couple of tricks I found out when trying transparent filament is to use 100% infill, at least for what I am doing. Anything else shows weird patterns. Also, be very sure that there are no 'boogers' of old filament, even small ones, on the hot end which may drop onto the print. For opaque colored filament it may just blend in, but for transparent, it's a brown/black stain on the window.
With the Reprappers transparent PETg, I did notice that it's more likely to have a 'string' like in your photo when it's unloaded.
RE: Problem printing with transparent PLA on MK3S
@mar-22
Thank you so much for your statement. I am a total newbie, just started this extraordinary and fascinating hobby and was excited about the fast positive results I got (even though I assembled my MK3S myself from the kit - good job, Joseph and your employees, how you pack and mark the parts and designed the assembly manual!). Yesterday I tried my first print with transparent filament (Eryone PLA) and my printer showed exactly the behavior you describe. I will now try your proposal of 230 degrees and let you know result here.
RE: Problem printing with transparent PLA on MK3S
@mar-22
It worked! With the higher temperature (only extruder, not bed) all went well and now I have my six cone-shaped elements that I needed.
Thanks again for the hint!