poor print quality  

Re: poor print quality

I tightened up my Y belt so it feels similar to the X belt. However, the self test barely moved, Y=276. I'm not sure how confident I am in those readings. But belt tensions feel equal and are both taught, similar to MK2.

I checked e-steps and they are perfect out of the box. 100mm = 100mm. MK2 was notorious for under-extruding; many people finding about 5% under. But the print quality and mechanical fit of prints was fantastic. So I tend to want to cheat that direction. I printed the test objects and they measure over so I am adjusting.

gorkish, I think you have an error in your spreadsheet. The extrusion is on two faces, so the over/under error needs to be divided by 2. Your first div 2 is to average the inside / outside extrusion error, but need another div 2 to account for the two faces for each.

So far new slic3r seems to be working without going through octoprint. Early test prints are much smoother now that the over-extrusion is fixed. I think I am still seeing ringing though.

I compared the g-code between MK2 and MK3 Marvin. Two extra commands for MK3: M115 and M900. Anyone know the purpose of M115?

Other difference is MK3 has tons of M204 acceleration adjustments. Maybe that is the cause of the ringing.

I've been able to dial down everything...

My printer puts out almost "perfect" prints.... almost because im still having lots of ringing... didnt noticed at first but its there and quite obvious... specially if i compare the prints with my old printer.

Accelaration settings is probably the culprit here like you said...

Remove the filament spool from the top frame and try another print.

If that solves it im gonna punch myself in the face xD

Re: poor print quality

I've been able to dial down everything...

My printer puts out almost "perfect" prints.... almost because im still having lots of ringing... didnt noticed at first but its there and quite obvious... specially if i compare the prints with my old printer.

Accelaration settings is probably the culprit here like you said...

Remove the filament spool from the top frame and try another print.

If that solves it im gonna punch myself in the face xD

I never use the Prusa spool holder. Always outboard. So that’s not going to solve it.

Re: poor print quality

We'll keep hammering on it. Wish I had mine to better help you guys. Don't give up!

Where do you change the accel settings and such?

Re: poor print quality

We'll keep hammering on it. Wish I had mine to better help you guys. Don't give up!

Where do you change the accel settings and such?

You have some options on the Slic3r... gotta make some more tests...

Re: poor print quality

Well, my prints aren't all that great right now either.

My benchy's bow had imperfections that from what I have read indicated a slight over extrusion. Well that's not it. Just finished the 100mm extrusion test and was only extruding 99mm. A slight under extrusion. I just changed the steps per millimeter setting in the firmware from the default 560.0 to 565.6 to get the full 100mm extrusion on my printer. Spitting a benchy out now to see how much of an improvement, if any.

In case anyone reading has no idea what I am talking about, tom's has a great video that is a bit older. But I found this written instruction easier to follow and complete.

https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/

Re: poor print quality

i have the same problems...
building was easy and everything worked fine. xyz and the other calibrations worked without any issues.

but the prints are not looking very good.

the benchy from the SD card lokks grod from the top but not upside down.

i printed some other parts - they all look like the benchy on the side.

Re: poor print quality

Hmm... I'm still just a noob, but that first layer looks maybe like the Z-live adjust isn't quite low enough.

As for that warping on the bow of the ship... man, thats rough. My first benchy didn't turn out like that, that's for sure.

Re: poor print quality

i allready have played with the z live adjust.
maybe i have to try again. thanks for the hint

Re: poor print quality

First, calibrate your z-distance, and second the poor Benchy bow is a cooling problem.

Thomas

Re: poor print quality

Z distance only affect few first layers... and if u think that top of boat roof is ok, so, u must be blind 🙂 awaiting sw update 😥

Re: poor print quality

First, calibrate your z-distance, and second the poor Benchy bow is a cooling problem.

Thomas

Yeah, I'm wondering if the new cooling nozzle design is not as effective.

Re: poor print quality

i allready have played with the z live adjust.
maybe i have to try again. thanks for the hint

Your top layers look like over-extrusion. When I backed off flow rate (or reduced extrusion multiplier) it cleaned those up.

MK2 tended to under-extrude. So the perimeter settings in slic3r may be tuned to that machine still. Since the MK3 seems to be dead on with e-steps, the "compensation" in slic3r from MK2 days would make the surface poor. So my suggestion above is just a hack for now.

Re: poor print quality

i guess it musst habe to do with the amount of filament used.

- Z Axis is not the problem. tried to deep, high and right....
- cooling: i tried the fan at full speed 255 all the time. (didn't do anything). room is at 19°C

If it is a cooling Problem, the orange Part that guides the air from the Fan has to be optimized

The frog looks like this (base layer was to low), fan always 255, right from the Prusa card.
The first two layers of the prusa logo are the last picture.

Next i will try to slice it with 10% less filament used with the extrusion multiplyer.

Re: poor print quality

i guess it musst habe to do with the amount of filament used.

- Z Axis is not the problem. tried to deep, high and right....
- cooling: i tried the fan at full speed 255 all the time. (didn't do anything). room is at 19°C

If it is a cooling Problem, the orange Part that guides the air from the Fan has to be optimized

The frog looks like this (base layer was to low), fan always 255, right from the Prusa card.
The first two layers of the prusa logo are the last picture.

Next i will try to slice it with 10% less filament used with the extrusion multiplyer.

Slow down your print speed on perimeters, it needs a time to cool down.

Re: poor print quality

the frog took 5 hours....

i tried a test part with 0,9 extrusion multiplyer... looks much better.

Re: poor print quality

Ok....

I think im getting somewhere, i will take photos and show it to you guys later.

I managed to get S3D to print somehow xD.... And the ringing is gone... I did drop the temperature quite a bit and that usually helps with ringing.

I will keep testing with both slic3r and S3D and keep you guys updated.

Re: poor print quality

i allready have played with the z live adjust.
maybe i have to try again. thanks for the hint

Your top layers look like over-extrusion. When I backed off flow rate (or reduced extrusion multiplier) it cleaned those up.

MK2 tended to under-extrude. So the perimeter settings in slic3r may be tuned to that machine still. Since the MK3 seems to be dead on with e-steps, the "compensation" in slic3r from MK2 days would make the surface poor. So my suggestion above is just a hack for now.

This looks promising. Based on assumption above, I adjusted perimeter and external perimeter in advanced print settings down 6% to 0.42, and I left the extrusion multiplier at 1.0. I printed the extrusion test print and it was perfect at 10.0 mm inside and out.

When you use the extrusion multiplier, it adjusts everything, perimeters, infill, etc. I noticed some of the infill was under-extruding. So I think tuning the individual parameters for the improved extruder on the MK3 is the right direction.

Re: poor print quality

Working with extrusion multiplier at 0,90 and without linear advance and prints now seem to be ok 🙂 flat without overextrusion... printing with S3D profile created with S3D wizard. 😎

Btw. any one have detailed photo of test print (dual color Prusa logo) from preassembled printer? Just curious, if Prusa sending printers with badly printed test prints... 🙄

Re: poor print quality

Just got my MK3 and printed the Marvin off the SD card and compared it to the one from the MK2 and it looks good but definitely some cooling issues and slight ringing. My belts are 250 for X and 278 for Y, to make them lower do you increase tightness because I cannot get it to around 240.

I tried making it loose and it went up to 281, then increased tension and the number didn't go down much even though the belt felt very tight especially compared to X. In the end I went with loosening it to the point it would slip when doing the pliers test and kept increasing the tension until it wouldn't slip and you can ping it.

For the S3D profile should we change the infill acceleration to match the settings in Slic3r since its the only one that seems to of been increased?

{REPLACE "; outer perimeter\n" "; outer perimeter\nM204 S800\n"}
{REPLACE "; inner perimeter\n" "; inner perimeter\nM204 S1000\n"}
{REPLACE "; solid layer\n" "; solid layer\nM204 S1000\n"}
{REPLACE "; infill\n" "; infill\nM204 S3500\n"}

Btw one thing I was impressed with was that it extruded 100mm off the bat when testing the e-steps but it I did need to tweak my flow to 0.91 as it was extruding at 0.49

Re: poor print quality

Here is a smaller fan nozzle that may help with part cooling: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2728615

I am testing as well.