Intricate prints won't fully stick
I've been printing close to 100 of the Lego Dimensions Display Hexagons and now for whatever reason the first layer won't fully stick/properly print.
I wipe the plate with IPA after almost every print and have washed it with warm soapy water and tried printing on the other side of the sheet, but it still won't lay the first layer down correctly. I've also tried printing with a brim and some of it prints better while others don't even come out. The only thing that has changed between printing is the filament and a firmware update or two. Started with American Filament PLA, which never had a problem, then moved over to Prusament PLA and have tried eSun PLA and nothing is properly sticking anymore (I'd go back to the AF PLA to test, but I don't have any one me at the moment). I'm using the .20mm Quality present in the Prusa Slicer when creating the gcode (215C/60C). Is it an issue with the filament or something on the printer or settings I should be looking at? Anything that has a larger footprint prints fine with a near flawless first layer.
Also is there a way to stop the "drooling" of filament as the nozzle is heating up I try to catch a much as I can before it starts printing, but inevitably there always seems to be a little blob of filament that ends up on the plate after the initial wipe.
RE: Intricate prints won't fully stick
Just trying to exclude the obvious: have you recalibrated your live z?
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...
RE:
Tried re-calibrating the live z and that doesn't appear to do much. I was taking a closer look (getting level to the bed to watch the nozzle on the first layer) and I am noticing that the nozzle continues to "drool" as it's doing its bed calibration and then when it does the purge wipe before it starts to print there's still some filament on the nozzle that doesn't get wiped off as it curls up which then interferes a bit with the first layer whether it be just being in the way or causing really thin stringing on the bed causing (from what I can see) clumping and some parts not stick.
Now I'm not sure if this "drooling" is the actual cause, but it's the only thing I can visually see at this point that could potentially be having some sort of affect on the first layer.
I've already performed a cold pull to help clean out the nozzle, but other than that that is the only thing I've done to the nozzle/heat block assembly as a whole.
I'm with @fuchsr on this, your first layer may need a little more squish, perhaps your nozze has worn ... have you had adhesion problems before? Despite your cleaning efforts there are a few visible smers on the build sheet so a really thorough clean wouldn't hurt.
noticing that the nozzle continues to "drool" as it's doing its bed calibration
How are you drying your filament?
Cheerio,
RE: Intricate prints won't fully stick
How are you drying your filament?
I don't, usually keep them in an air tight tub, but this also happens with brand new out of the plastic wrap filament as well (also a little too dry in my apartment at the moment with the heat on).
As I said before I've been able to print close to 100 of these without any issues up until a few months ago and anything with a larger foot print doesn't have this issue. I've also noticed that it only appears to happen in the top right and somewhat top/mid leftish area of the print area regardless of whatever side of the sheet I'm printing on.
RE: Intricate prints won't fully stick
As diem and fuchsr pointed out: first layer calibration might be the issue. Recalibrating only helps when done correctly, so if you don't mind: run the internal first layer calibration and take a picture of the resulting rectangle still on the bed. Do not use black filament and take a nice in focus picture. This way we can be sure that's not your issue.
New "out of the plastic bag" filament unfortuantely does not always mean dry filament, so if your problem persists: dry your filament to make sure that is not the issue.
The oozing of the nozzle during bed leveling can be reduced by an modified start code. See bobstro's page for a pretty good start code. ( https://muppetlabs.co/3dprinting_prusaslicer_start_gcode_mk3.html )
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.
Find out why this is pinned in the general section!
RE: Intricate prints won't fully stick
run the internal first layer calibration and take a picture of the resulting rectangle still on the bed.
Here are the results of running the calibration. Ended up on -0.993 if that matters.
RE:
That looks pretty good to me, so: not the problem.
next point on the check list would be the cleaning of the surface. If you are really really sure it‘s as clean and free of grease as possible (check the numerous threads about cleaning with alcohol, lots of it - happy new year btw - and/or soap and hot water) the next thing to consider is that your smooth PEI sheet may need to be refreshed with a bit of aceton. Contrary to the cleaning with alcohol you onky need to wipe the sheet shortly with an aceton soaked cloth or paper towel to do that.
If you did all that and made sure the filament is dry and the problem persist it’s probably time to get a new nozzle - how much did you print with it? Is it possible that you damaged the nozzle tip e.g. with pliers while removing cold filament?
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.
Find out why this is pinned in the general section!
RE: Intricate prints won't fully stick
Tried cleaning with acetone, it appeared to be working ok, not perfect, but ok. Once it started printing on the right side everything started falling apart again with it only sticking to some areas. It's interesting that it's always in the same spot. Should I try a glue stick on the PEI sheet?
I'll look into a replacement nozzle anyway.
Do not use gluestick.
This *might* help: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/bed-level-correction_2267
Cheerio,
RE:
What diem said, don’t use glue stick, where is @jsw when he is needed? He always recommends something starting with L and sounding similar to reindeer, search the forum, you might want to try that.
About the bed level correction: that seems to work for some people, but I am sceptical, because nobody really can explain what this is compensating for, the only plausible thing would be variations in the thickness of the coating which should really not be a thing…
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.
Find out why this is pinned in the general section!
RE: Intricate prints won't fully stick
PS: do you use the 7x7 mesh bed levelling with magnet compensation on? If not, try that before messing with the bed level correction…
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.
Find out why this is pinned in the general section!
RE: Intricate prints won't fully stick
He always recommends something starting with L and sounding similar to reindeer
Layerneer bed weld. Works great. I use it as needed for bed adhesion (especially for delicate first layer features printed with PETG) or to facilitate removal of parts from the bed. For PC-CF I use Magigoo for PC.
Somehow my gut feeling is still arguing for a bed leveling issue. I never use the in built calibration routine but rather print larger squares or a strip like this https://www.printables.com/model/105404-calibration-strip-for-simple-live-zfirst-layer-cal to get live z right.
But the nozzle idea is easy to test, with a new nozzle.
Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...
RE: Intricate prints won't fully stick
Ordered a new nozzle as well as a satin PEI sheet just to see if there's any difference. Will update once they arrive.
RE: Intricate prints won't fully stick
I can recommend from personal experience Dimafix adhesive sticks (and also the spray, but apply only outside, not close to the printer) but also Magigoo.
But everyone who is using adhesives has his or her own preferences.
Just don't use regular PVA based sticks like Kores or UHU stick. I would only recommend those as release agent if at all. Ie for materials that stick too well.
Mk3s MMU2s, Voron 0.1, Voron 2.4
RE: Intricate prints won't fully stick
Parts came in and wanted to post an update. Looks like it's a sheet issue. I put in the Satin sheet and while not perfect (I think I need to run the first layer calibration again and go closer) as some things have shifted and the posts didn't fully form until the second layer, it's a lot better and I'm at layer 4 now with all 4 of them sticking to the sheet whereas on the PEI sheet it couldn't even get 3 to stick.
Also realized I probably should have asked before ordering since I can't find any information anywhere on this, since the "Original" Prusa .4mm nozzle was sold out on Printed Solid and I wasn't going to pay the $30 shipping to get it directly through Prusa I ordered this nozzle 1.75mm E3D V6 replacement nozzle is this compatible with the MK3S+?
And one last question, it appears that I have to do a deeper clean on the PEI sheet, is it safe to submerge and let it sit in soapy water for a few minutes or is there a chance of water getting under the coating and ruining it?
RE: Intricate prints won't fully stick
The Prusa and E3D V6 nozzles are identical (the hot ends are not, because Prusa modified the heat-break for better tip forming during MMU operation) but be aware that E3D V6 nozzles are one of the most cloned printer spare parts on the market, and while not every fake E3D nozzle is bad quality a lot of them are.
The link you provided does not say “original E3D V6 nozzle” only ‘E3D V6 replacement nozzle” which sounds like a clone to me - the nozzle geometry and the precision and accuracy of the tip and it’s edges are very important, especially for the first layer. On the other hand “printed solid” seems to be a reliable quality provider so you are probably safe with that nozzle.
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.
Find out why this is pinned in the general section!
RE: Intricate prints won't fully stick
(I think I need to run the first layer calibration again and go closer)
Yes you do and make sure you use a new sheet profile so you can switch between sheets without the need to calibrate every time....
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.
Find out why this is pinned in the general section!
RE: Intricate prints won't fully stick
One last update. After running the first layer calibration for the satin sheet and getting it looking good I tried running the print again and I got even worst results with half the parts coming off the bed after a couple of layers. I switched back to the PEI sheet and ran the first layer calibration again to see if getting it a little closer would help and the very first parts of the print wouldn't properly stick.
Went and swapped out the nozzle once I was able to get the correct socket size ran a calibration and then ran the print again and it's printing flawlessly on the PEI sheet. Currently at layer 6 with no issues so far.