Help Printing the Elder Wand_with Core_Edited by kspring
Hi ,
I did print this nice Elder Wand with the core by Kspring, everything went good but the small part came out verry uggly. Like the middle one on the picture and then my son broke it on the first one. I did tried to play with the infill and type and shape to strengthen the tip without success. Then to save on plastic i did a cut of the last tip section and did many other try of just the last 45mm or so . I found something that was better at that height but when i use those parameter (star infill and print outer perimeter first and lower a bit the speed, but it fail again I even printed 2 at the time so it have more time to cool but that was worse than the original print.
So as i am new to 3d print (My Prusa MK3S is born 13 March 19 in my Living room) and i want to learn. I am welcome to any suggestion. What kind of issue it is to your Makers Eyes ? I feel like the extrusion make the structure ''wobble'' Or its to hot ? I was originaly printing in Mystic Brown PLA at 230 for the color effect but 215 print isn't better. I haded support and different infill in the third full size print and its worst lol. The 2 other parts of the model printed perfect they are stiffer.
Layer height .150, quality Prusa Profile.
Elder Wand - with Core ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1866346)
Just remember Prusa team printed a set in one of the Print of the weeks i will try to compare both .gCode...
Thanks in advance for your help
RE: Help Printing the Elder Wand_with Core_Edited by kspring
Generally, you can add a wide BRIM to the settings to help improve the structure stability. If that doesn't help enough, the second thing is to slow down print speed to a minimum (set both perimeters to 15 mm/s).
RE: Help Printing the Elder Wand_with Core_Edited by kspring
That is a super challenging print. You're being limited by the stiffness of the PLA you're printing. The printer does exert some forces on the object as it is printing, both by the head and by moving the bed. A very tall spire like your wand will flex under those forces and result in an uneven print at the top.
I have a few recommendations:
- Split it into pieces at the middle of every ball and then glue it together. The larger diameters of the balls will provide large enough bed adhesion surface, if not enough, you can augment that with a brim. The top surface will require a little sanding with progressively finer sandpapers to make the seams between the glued parts invisible.
- If you must build it in a single piece, then build a huge support structure around it, at least a centimeter on each side. Use support enforcer modifiers and/or an additional flat cylinder object above the wand in Slic3r to achieve that. The support will be used in an unusual way: For lateral stiffness rather than for the more usual reason of overhangs.
- Print hot (225-235, depending on how the mystic brown reacts) and slow (15mm/s) and have a lot of cooling (100% in a cold room) at the same time. You need all the inter-layer adhesion you can get, also hot and slow will give a nice surface finish. Cooling is required to avoid stringing and layer deformation of small perimeters. This will be less of a problem if you use a lot of support around the wand.
- Use a large number of perimeters instead of fiddling with infill. This will make sure that the top part is entirely solid, while the bottom will be okay with a sparse infill. This shape may even print well with 0% infill and be hollow at the bottom.
- Hotter printing stiff filaments that don't require a fan, like PA-CF may make getting perfect results on this kind of a shape easier. Nevertheless, don't go there until you got the best that PLA can give. There are other problems with advanced filaments that will take a lot of your time to get over.
Good luck!
RE: Help Printing the Elder Wand_with Core_Edited by kspring
Hey guys thanks for the answer!
I did try another time with lower speed, bigger brim and 6 perimeter. Fail again lol. So I did as sugested, i insert a floating''Washer'' at 110mm high with 4x 10x10x110mm structure pilard. I started this before dinner but did something in printdroid and stall it after 2 hour ... my fault ... so i started it back now ill see if it work.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/w4c1EzYd251C5UdR9
Google album of this elder
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EdhRSw6t1DHfRh3m9
Thanks a lot Tim and vojtech-p6 , it will help me learn a lot to have your feedback!
RE: Help Printing the Elder Wand_with Core_Edited by kspring
Someone else had problems printing this and said stock settings with brim, but slowing to 15 mm/s for the two perimeters resulted in a good print. They added it turned out to be fragile and they ended up cutting it down the middle to get the best strength.
A true flat washer may be unprintable due to how Slic3r may decide to start that layer. You might have better luck cutting at that level, and gluing the part back together. The other option is to cut longitudinally and glue (not my favorite idea, but it adds strength).
You could try adding tree supports in Meshmixer ... and set three at 120 degrees and angle up to the last bulge at 30 - 45 degrees to create a support tripod.
RE: Help Printing the Elder Wand_with Core_Edited by kspring
Congratulations on the print, it looks AWESOME!
RE: Help Printing the Elder Wand_with Core_Edited by kspring
Haha Thanks Vojtech, The base is good but still no perfect Top parts. I Paused this print for a while ill resume soon. I was thinking back to all test i did . The Best of all was the first (prusament .15 quality) with the 3 parts printing together. It had defect at the very last 10-12mm if i remember, then my son broke it lol. But could i just had some waiting/cooling to keep it from building to much heat. Its so small one layer is really quick... When I was printing tip test (the very last 50mm) 3 layers with a triangle inill was printing strayter... I'll explore how i can add a move to blow air on the printing tip then print again. What would you suggest ?
Thanks in advance for your help and TIP ;oP
Was gooing to print this with support but i will try the Cooling first i think