Cannpt get ABS printed well
Hi,
although I was able to print ABS fairly well with my MK2s (see picture of the whit hub printed from PRUSA ABS-T white ABS), I get horrible results on my MK3 (see black parts).
I have to say that I have moved and my basement, where the printer is located is a bit colder that it was before: 17.5°C compared to 18.5°C before.
So I built an enclosure and also monitored the heat build up roughly half height of the printer.
I use black ABS-T from PRUSA with the latest Slic3r and latest firmware. Just used the presets.
The part was supposed to be a mere cylinder / tube of 30mm or 26mm outer diameter.
I cannot get the cylinder straight. What looks like an elephants foot isn't really one, because it has the correct dimensions. (roughly). Bed adhesion is perfect (use ABS juice) and no warping.
I looked through different online sources but I didn't find a hit of how to address this problem. I tried slowing down (50% with the tuning option in print), lowering nozzle temperature to 235°C, leaving the plexi front cover away (inside temperature 25°C rather than 37°C with cover attached).
Lowering the temperature brought a slightly better result. But far away from what I would expect.
Any hints on this highly appreciated.
Cheers Alexander
Re: Cannpt get ABS printed well
First a disclaimer, I have 2 days experience 3D printing. Counting the 2 cylinders I just printed I have printed a total of 6 parts in ABS.
The filament is from Microcenter. Bed temp at 105, I got warping at 100 when testing. 1st layer nozzle at 255, remainder at 245. Infill 30%. Printed in enclosure with door closed, avg temp 32 C, humidity 30%. Parts stick to bed fine, no ABS juice.
The temps were suggested in another post, also recommended that door be kept closed to avoid any breezes.
Printer is a Mk 3 kit
Hope this helps.
Griff
Re: Cannpt get ABS printed well
Thank you.
However I'd like to understand why this happens and what to do to prevent this from happening.
Tonight I will try the white ABS that worked before with the MK2s
Cheers Alexander
SOLVED Cannot get ABS printed well
Happy to say that I solved the problem.
It was due to overheating the ABS!
I found this post here https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/print-tips-archive--f86/differences-abs-abs-t-easyabs-t4745.html#p79669
My suspicion that the temperature was way too high proved to be correct. However I didn't dare to go that far down:
Extruder
* First Layer 225
* Other Layers 215
Bed
* First Layer 100
* Other Layers 100
Remember: I prepared the bed with ABS juice so warping or other bed problems just did not apply.
I also kept the fan on after 3 layers a 20%. I not only read in this post that this is an option for ABS.
There is a really slight elephants foot. However, it is neglectable.
Cheers Alexander
Re: Cannpt get ABS printed well
Cool you solved your problem.
It’s becoming clear to me that there is some voodoo involved in this whole 3D print thing. I’m doing all sorts of test prints just to learn.
I ran your new temps and got garbage. I’m guessing at least partly because there is so much variability between filament specs and...
Party on...
Re: Cannpt get ABS printed well
The project I was about to do was a spike holder for my Manfrotto 055 tripod.
Here are a few pictures.
Re: Cannpt get ABS printed well
I found that the print quality in the enclose was not as good as I thought. Also compared to not having the enclosure.
I wanted to know whether the enclosure would be necessary at all. So I printed yet another part with the 3D printer out of the enclosure.
The result was really better than the ones I printed within the enclosure. Wow.
So why would anyone use an enclosure anyway?
I was about to find out soon.
Re: Cannpt get ABS printed well
After I did my little stress test by pressing the two noses together with my fingers I heard a crack.
I did the same test with the parts I printed inside the enclosure. However, that did not happen!
Lessons learned: printing in an enclosure at 35° to 40°C brings more sturdy result.
Cheers Alexander
Re: Cannpt get ABS printed well
Hello Alexander,
You're printing a pretty small part. It actually doesn't really matter if you're using an enclosure for that part.
Small hints to make the part stronger even without an enclosure.
1. Raise the flow rate. Slight over extrusion helps to fill the gaps
2. Raise the nozzle temperature. 255C works pretty good for me
3. Print slower. It helps the layers to bond and melt better together
If your small part starts deforming because of the high heat, I would rather prefer to let the part cooling fan run at 20% and keep the high temp instead of lowering it. Got better results with this this approach so far.
Let us know if that helps.
Often linked posts:
Going small with MMU2
Real Multi Material
My prints on Instagram
Re: Cannpt get ABS printed well
Thank you. I will do another print of this part tomorrow with your suggestions.
I assume that I will use the extrusion multiplier in Slic3r to increase the flow rate. Would 3% be a good starting point? Or even 5%?
I will raise the nozzle temperature, bit 255°C proved to be impossible with that kind of ABS. Someone else did't get proper results until he lowered the nozzle temp (see link above).
How slow is slow? What is your suggestion. I printed with 20mm/s. Still slower?
Thank you for your input.
Cheers Alexander
Re: Cannpt get ABS printed well
Thank you. I will do another print of this part tomorrow with your suggestions.
I assume that I will use the extrusion multiplier in Slic3r to increase the flow rate. Would 3% be a good starting point? Or even 5%?
I will raise the nozzle temperature, bit 255°C proved to be impossible with that kind of ABS. Someone else did't get proper results until he lowered the nozzle temp (see link above).
How slow is slow? What is your suggestion. I printed with 20mm/s. Still slower?
Thank you for your input.
Cheers Alexander
Re: Cannpt get ABS printed well
Thank you. I will do another print of this part tomorrow with your suggestions.
I assume that I will use the extrusion multiplier in Slic3r to increase the flow rate. Would 3% be a good starting point? Or even 5%?
I will raise the nozzle temperature, bit 255°C proved to be impossible with that kind of ABS. Someone else did't get proper results until he lowered the nozzle temp (see link above).
How slow is slow? What is your suggestion. I printed with 20mm/s. Still slower?
Thank you for your input.
Cheers Alexander
Re: Cannpt get ABS printed well
Thank you. I will do another print of this part tomorrow with your suggestions.
I assume that I will use the extrusion multiplier in Slic3r to increase the flow rate. Would 3% be a good starting point? Or even 5%?
I will raise the nozzle temperature, bit 255°C proved to be impossible with that kind of ABS. Someone else did't get proper results until he lowered the nozzle temp (see link above).
How slow is slow? What is your suggestion. I printed with 20mm/s. Still slower?
Thank you for your input.
Cheers Alexander
Re: Cannpt get ABS printed well
Thank you. I will do another print of this part tomorrow with your suggestions.
I assume that I will use the extrusion multiplier in Slic3r to increase the flow rate. Would 3% be a good starting point? Or even 5%?
I will raise the nozzle temperature, bit 255°C proved to be impossible with that kind of ABS. Someone else did't get proper results until he lowered the nozzle temp (see link above).
How slow is slow? What is your suggestion. I printed with 20mm/s. Still slower?
Thank you for your input.
Cheers Alexander
Re: Cannpt get ABS printed well
-> I would go 5%. In Slic3r you could also increase the layer width to 0.48 (if it's not the case), otherwise 1.05 flow rate should do the trick as-well.
-> What's the brand of your ABS? Maybe a link to a spec sheet? I'm wandering why any (pure) ABS shouldn't go 255C. And the part cooling fan at 20% should help you to preserve the part dimensions.
-> My settings are 30mm/s default, 20mm/s outer layer and Simplify3D is slowing down, if needed even more. But 20mm/s is already pretty good and should be ok.
Happy testing
Often linked posts:
Going small with MMU2
Real Multi Material
My prints on Instagram
Re: Cannpt get ABS printed well
Did some more testing. Raised the temperature to 240°C in the next step. Didn't change the extrusion multiplier.
Worked great. The trick is keeping the fan on at 20%, maybe even less.
Re: Cannpt get ABS printed well
Your problem is due small part and ABS need to cooldown before apply the new layer, thats why if you lower the print temp will help alot your print, but ABS need high melt temperature.
Fan always on can also cause problems, ABS don't like air drafs and first layer must be with fan OFF
The solution is use the auto colling feature, please use the default ABS profile with the recommended temperatures and change the following:
bed: 120ºc (First layer) 115ºc (Others) --> This way you can skip abs juice.
Go cooling and configure like:
Please use lastest version of slic3r.
Make sure your PINDA is at 35ºc at the time of bed calibration, for that set your Z that 150mm. Pre heat bed first and when reach the temperature print the gcode.
If your try this way, report back how it went
Re: Cannpt get ABS printed well
Hi Taigo,
You're right. For bigger, more complex objects where you have maybe one small part which would require cooling, your solution will be better.
For the small objects following approach worked best for me:
-> 250C: makes sure the layers are bond together well and extruder is happy about less work
-> Fan on 20% from the second layer: Because we are very close to the bed, only hot air is applied. Because the next layer is applied very fast (small part) the previous layer is not cooled down too fast.
-> Bed: 100C, no special treatment is required
This way I'm getting strong small parts with correct dimensional accuracy.
Often linked posts:
Going small with MMU2
Real Multi Material
My prints on Instagram
Re: Cannpt get ABS printed well
Hi Taigo,
You're right. For bigger, more complex objects where you have maybe one small part which would require cooling, your solution will be better.
For the small objects following approach worked best for me:
-> 250C: makes sure the layers are bond together well and extruder is happy about less work
-> Fan on 20% from the second layer: Because we are very close to the bed, only hot air is applied. Because the next layer is applied very fast (small part) the previous layer is not cooled down too fast.
-> Bed: 100C, no special treatment is required
This way I'm getting strong small parts with correct dimensional accuracy.
For bigger objects i always use fan off, the layer have time to cooldown when next is applied.
With small objects my approach works good to me, eg: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:153807 print flawless, the good of auto cooling is you can define all that variables plus the speed, you can apply that from the second layer.
About bed 100ºc don't work well to me with the Prusa Easy-ABS or filafarm abs that i have, no matter if big or small object it will warp. 120/115 never failed to me, even with a 160x160mm object (no deformation), i use IPA before print