Avoiding a "bowing base" when printing with ASA
I am printing the body sections of a 1/32nd scale railway coach in ASA (from rigid.ink) which must be mated, side to side. This is going very well except that, more often than not, the base of each print very slightly comes away from the heat plate during printing, leading to a kind of bowing effect on what should be a straight edge. The result of this is that the mating doesn't quite work, there is a gap, which you can see in the picture below.
An obvious solution to this would be to make the objects slightly longer and rub them down afterwards to fit but there are features on the edge (the little sticky-out bits, which are the model hinges of the model doors) that need to be retained. The heat bed is at 110 C (any lower and the object comes away during printing) and a brim is being added in slic3r, settings are otherwise default for a 0.15 mm OPTIMAL resolution print on a MK3 printer. The printer is enclosed in a cupboard to ensure that the ASA stays nice and cuddly warm, avoiding drafts.
Any suggestions as to how I might stop the bowing occurring?
The STL for the component can be downloaded from here: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AqUHa_qo4gdB9GUiNWrM54ycJbef
Re: Avoiding a "bowing base" when printing with ASA
You can fight "warping" (bowing base) with:
Hope I could help.
Re: Avoiding a "bowing base" when printing with ASA
All I did was a quick google search and I found a webpage that gives you tips.
https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-succeed-when-3d-printing-with-asa-filament
But in summary it says ASA is very similar to ABS filament and it goes on to say that just like ABS you may need to build an enclosure to keep objects from warping. Give it a quick read it has other stuff in it as well.
Standby to Standby
Re: Avoiding a "bowing base" when printing with ASA
Thanks for the advice. I already have the printer enclosed to avoid drafts and I had already purchased the bits to allow me to make ABS juice, which I guess has a similar effect to Magigoo, but I was hoping to follow PRUSA advice, which is that no additional adhesive should not be necessary when printing ABS with the MK3.
I'll see if I can crank the bed temperature up to 115 or 120 C and if that doesn't do the trick I'll resort to some form of goo.
Re: Avoiding a "bowing base" when printing with ASA
FYI, increasing the heat-bed temperature to 120 C has improved things such that I can now hide the remaining imperfection (in the roof area) with sanding/filling.
