Your Welcome,

Take time and go over the .3mf file, there's a lot to learn in there.

If your happy with your print quality leave your printer alone.

Enjoy

Swiss_Cheese

Not sure what the issue was here but I think Cleaning the bed very well with soap, applying the glue the right way, and of course the slicing part must have been helpful. A lot of settings were changed, much to learn on my side...  And it prints soo much faster now!  I can't believe it, just under 2 hours. This is really helpful.

Really surprised by the effort you took to help a random guy like me on this forum. I really appreciate this.

Still, something is bothering me though. As I mentioned earlier I struggled a lot with the x-asis belt. And I still think this is not correct. Not sure if it is appropriate to start a conversation about this now on this topic but anyway..

When I do a belt test the x-axis is around 220 and 240 as for the y-axis it is almost exactly 275. 
A slight adjustment for the x-axis was not sufficient (too loose) so I had to make a large adjustment by adjusting the belt holder on the extruder by just one theeth. At this point, the belt was not too loose and the tension now feels very similar to the y-axis. So I guess that's good but the numbers still don't make sense. Still the same so around 220 and 240 max. 

Is this a problem or should I ignore this and just feel whether the tension is ok or not.  

https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/adjusting-belt-tension-mk3-s_112380 (This is what I did)

As mentioned above clean your smooth PEI sheet with very hot water and dish washing liquid (with no additives) don't use IPA on the sheet accept in between prints and when you do use IPA use a Generous Amount.

When printing ASA or ABS on the smooth PEI sheet you need to add a release For ASA you will use (glue stick) not Windex, Windex is a proper release for PETG but will not do the job for ASA or ABS. ASA and ABS can stick so well to the smooth PEI sheet that it can damage it during release. The glue that came with your printer should work fine I also use Elmer's disappearing purple glue stick or layerneer bed weld. If you don't have the Kore's that came with the printer. I apply it in a # crisscross pattern (let first layer dry then apply seccond in opposite direction) don't go to heavy on the application.

I've looked at your .3mf project file and have a couple recommendations, you can take your infill % down to 20% 30 is a bit high for this application, also you mention your printing in an enclosure (A pretty sweet one) so the skirt is not going to do a lot for you, and can be removed.  The brim can be helpful, however you have "elephants foot compensation set to 0.2 and that is stopping the brim from making contact with the printed part, so I'm going to recommend turning it off by  "setting it to Zero" if you wish to use the brim.

I personally would not use a brim on this print, it has a lot of area for good contact. I would leave "Elephants foot compensation set to 0.2 and remove the brim and I would adjust the orientation of the print in the X axis.

I included and example .3mf with the suggestions I made added for you to consider.

361 Welkom_Swiss.Zip

Hope this helps, let us know how things go

Swiss_Cheese

How to print:

-Clean bed: use dish soap, clean a few times, use a lot of hot water. In between you can use alcohol, but use a lot of alcohol.

After a few prints use dish soap again.

- First layer needs to be 100% good.

Both settings are for getting a good stick to the bed, and prevents the model sticking  to the nozzle, and preventing a big ball of filament sticking to the extruder and damaging the printer.

If you are not 100% if first layer is good, print a few cubes spread out over the bed, start printing, adjust first layer to high, and a few lines and adjust until it looks good. Check if there are no holes, lines sticking together, and if you are not to low. I am often to low, if I am confused I start at a to high position and start adjusting again.

Clean bed, use dish soap, alcohol does not clean as good.
Ok, I now use Windex and finish off with alcohol. 

Z-layer needs to be 100% , sticking will get bad if you go to low or to high.
I think i got a good Z-layer did this over and over again. 

Search for asa if you need to use glue and what is the best steel plate to print on.
According to prusa this is the plate you should be using.

For warping, try lower bed temperature, more heat in the nozzle,  slower printing.
Will try lower bed temperatur, slower printing I have tried.

For warping let enclosure heat up for longer time before you print.
I was aware.

Enclosure maximum heat is 40 degrees, higher and extruder cooling will not work anymore.
I was aware 

Clean bed, use dish soap, alcohol does not clean as good.

Z-layer needs to be 100% , sticking will get bad if you go to low or to high.

Search for asa if you need to use glue and what is the best steel plate to print on.

For warping, try lower bed temperature, more heat in the nozzle,  slower printing.

For warping let enclosure heat up for longer time before you print.

Enclosure maximum heat is 40 degrees, higher and extruder cooling will not work anymore.

Attached the project file.