ABS with overhangs - How do I print this? (Printing help)

RE: ABS with overhangs

Daniel Cardona — Fri, 08 Sep 2023 13:47:54 +0000

Ah I see, I asked because since you said Parts got damaged I was considering to buy ABS or ASA prusa mk3s parts. But my temp inside the enclosure reached to a maximum of 40deg, my temp sensor is at the top of the printer Frame. I print small parts for my RC stuff that take maybe 2hrs at most. I will check and inspect my printer after my last two failed attempts and retry using your recommended settings.

Regards

Daniel

RE: ABS with overhangs

alidaf — Fri, 08 Sep 2023 11:40:30 +0000

Not damaged, just loosened up quite a bit. I have them in IKEA PLATSA cabinets. The ambient temperature reached nearly 60degC for some prints in quite a small volume (hygrometer in base of cabinet so likely much higher). I managed to print out all the parts for a V2.4 350 on 2 MK3S printers without any lasting issues - both are back to printing routine PLA and PETG stuff but I wouldn't have them pulling ABS duty long term. The Vorons are so much better with ABS that I've reprinted many of the parts already - but bear in mind that's likely because I didn't spend much time tuning specifically on the MK3S machines and that's because I'd rather not take the risk long term with them. I do value my MK3S machines immensely.

RE: ABS with overhangs

Daniel Cardona — Fri, 08 Sep 2023 09:44:26 +0000

What parts got damaged? I Assume you used an enclosure right?

Regards

RE: ABS with overhangs

alidaf — Fri, 08 Sep 2023 07:32:46 +0000

Posted by: @daniel-cardona
What cooling settings did you use to get this result? I have the same issue with my MK3S+ printing ABS.
Regards

It's been a while but I've gone into my settings and these are what I have for the ABS I used (3DQF):

Nozzle temp - 245 (This could go a little higher)

Bed temp - 100 (May still need to use some school glue)

Keep fan always on - checked

Enable auto cooling - checked

Fan speed - min: 15, max - 50

Disable fan for the first 2 layers.

Note: I use a different ABS (eSUN ABS+) now on Voron printers (2.4 and 0.1) and the settings are a bit different. The one thing to really be aware of is the heat build-up affecting the printed parts of the printer (there's also a risk to the electronics). I had to do quite an extensive service and re-calibrate, which is why I no longer print ABS on my MK3S printers.

RE:

Thejiral — Fri, 08 Sep 2023 06:43:37 +0000

^^ This part is one of the most challenging parts to print for a Voron.

For my part, I did not print it on my Mk3s but on my Voron 0.1. Personally I would recommend printing it very slow (if need be at snail speed, including infill) and then cranking up the cooling as much as you need to get the overhangs in order. In that order, as speed is only costing time but is not negatively impacting layer adhesion. While cooling does impact layer adhesion negatively. No matter what some tell you, the cooler your enclosure the more it does.

RE: ABS with overhangs

Daniel Cardona — Thu, 07 Sep 2023 15:07:45 +0000

Posted by: @alidaf
@thejiral, @netpackrat. And here is the before and after...
I pushed the speeds back up to default so the only difference is the cooling, and what a difference it has made. There's still room to tweak the very tip where the layer area is minimum, but I'm happy with this as a functional print so thanks all.

What cooling settings did you use to get this result? I have the same issue with my MK3S+ printing ABS.

Regards

RE: ABS with overhangs

Netpackrat — Wed, 01 Mar 2023 09:07:42 +0000

Getting close now.

Since this discussion took place, LDO came out with a set of modified Stealthburner/Clockwork2 parts that allow the use of the Afterburner/CW1 kit components with SB/CW2. For the time being I decided to go with the standard wiring setup and not try to mess with canbus. I need to install the firmware next, and besides that I am waiting for some ferrule connectors and a crimper to arrive so I can make the last connections between the hot end and the toolhead PCB.

RE: ABS with overhangs

alidaf — Tue, 06 Dec 2022 09:32:35 +0000

Reading through the spreadsheet again, some of the Klicky parts aren't needed and I never updated it because I remained confused and concerned for some time after installing it - I felt like I was missing something because the instructions were confusing. I contacted the dev and he made some changes to the documentation so it may be easier to follow now. It works really well though so I'm happy with it.

I printed parts for the Revo Micro but ended up ditching it for and Dragon so both are in the spreadsheet.

I also never bothered with the PCB cover in the end. It didn't look like it was secured properly and didn't want it falling off.

I know that the file names include numbers and whether the part is an accent but there are some sections where the LDO build deviates slightly.

RE:

alidaf — Tue, 06 Dec 2022 09:20:58 +0000

Posted by: @netpackrat

Posted by: @robert-14

Mellow Fly-SB2040 CAN board, as I want to go CAN straight from the start.

It's not 100% clear to me yet what I even need to re-print for the SB, although I think with the LDO kit that I have, I am supposed to stick with the CW1. Will probably need to reprint stuff as I go as I find that I printed the wrong stuff even using the LDO guide to what to print for their kit.

I just built the LDO 350 kit with the SB, keeping the CW1. I created a spreadsheet so that I could print JIT I've attached it in case it could help. I was going to stick it on github bit I don't think they take spreadsheets. It's an openoffice .ods spreadsheet. Just to err on the side of caution I take no responsibility for it or how it is used.

Voron-2.4-LDO-Checklist.ods

RE: ABS with overhangs

Robert — Tue, 06 Dec 2022 09:11:49 +0000

Interesting. I had to google that and skim the github because I didn't know what that was.

It let's you get rid of all the 18 cables going from the print head back to the electronics and instead use only 4 wires. Makes the build cleaner and less prone to failures in the future. But requires a bit more tinkering with electronics (flashing the boards, enabling CAN bridge mode etc.).

It's not 100% clear to me yet what I even need to re-print for the SB, although I think with the LDO kit that I have, I am supposed to stick with the CW1.

I'm currently on the same boat - researching about what to use. Going exactly with the kit and manual would probably be the most straightforward option, but then - if you want CAN - you have to rebuild almost the whole printer to get rid of the unnecessary wires. Looking at the github page I think you can go with Clockwork2 and a new X carriage: https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner/tree/main/STLs but those are only my guesses as I havent build one. Guys on FB group suggested that the only thing needed for SB and CW2 is the round stepper. There is also an interesting pins mod and klicky that might be worth looking at. At least I will probably go with those. Have good luck with your build!