Trouble with heatbreak and changing nozzles
I'm doing something wrong, but I need some help figuring it out. When I change nozzles, I go to thread on the new nozzle, and rather than tightening and locking into place, the nozzle just starts pushing the heatbreak up. And eventually the nozzle bottoms out, and you get the standard leak.
So what am I doing wrong? It seem like once the nozzle bottoms out on the heatbreak, it just starts pushing it out. The heatsink doesn't seem to be rotating.
RE: Trouble with heatbreak and changing nozzles
I'm doing something wrong, but I need some help figuring it out. When I change nozzles, I go to thread on the new nozzle, and rather than tightening and locking into place, the nozzle just starts pushing the heatbreak up. And eventually the nozzle bottoms out, and you get the standard leak.
So what am I doing wrong? It seem like once the nozzle bottoms out on the heatbreak, it just starts pushing it out. The heatsink doesn't seem to be rotating.
Take a look at this video:
I would not use too much thermal paste. After you have heated up the nozzle, turn off the heater and make sure that you don't damage the wires of the heating cartridge and the thermistor with the wrench.
good luck!
Statt zu klagen, dass wir nicht alles haben, was wir wollen, sollten wir lieber dankbar sein, dass wir nicht alles bekommen, was wir verdienen.
RE: Trouble with heatbreak and changing nozzles
If the nozzle bottoms out, then by definition the heatbreak isn't inserted far enough into the heater block. That can happen if the heatsink has rotated during your nozzle change, as there's nothing but friction from the plastic printhead housing to prevent it from doing so. To fix it you'll have to spin it backward, and... [insert ominous soundtrack]... that may require disassembly. In the future you could maybe try clamping it so that it doesn't move when you change the nozzle.
Or,...buy a phaetus dragon or Mosquito or similar, which are better designed in this regard than the E3V6, and then you won't have this recurring problem.
RE: Trouble with heatbreak and changing nozzles
If the nozzle bottoms out, then by definition the heatbreak isn't inserted far enough into the heater block. That can happen if the heatsink has rotated during your nozzle change, as there's nothing but friction from the plastic printhead housing to prevent it from doing so. To fix it you'll have to spin it backward, and... [insert ominous soundtrack]... that may require disassembly. In the future you could maybe try clamping it so that it doesn't move when you change the nozzle.
Or,...buy a phaetus dragon or Mosquito or similar, which are better designed in this regard than the E3V6, and then you won't have this recurring problem.
I've opened it up enough to get some pliers on the heatsink, and I can turn it backwards. The problem is that when I screw the nozzle on, it just unthreads both. Oh, well. It looks like I'm doing a complete hotend rebuild...
RE: Trouble with heatbreak and changing nozzles
@graham-a-2
I think the problem you described is not uncommon. I've had it happen to me before. If you decide to keep your E3V6, then after your rebuild you might want to look into a zcatch. I'm not sure how well it works in practice, but the theory seems sound and maybe (?) it would prevent a recurrence.
RE: Trouble with heatbreak and changing nozzles
Sounds to me like the threads are stripped on the heater block - on the side of the heatbreak. No way should the heatbeak just push out... The threads for the nozzle/heatbreak are shared and run right through. Sounds like a new heater block is needed.
RE: Trouble with heatbreak and changing nozzles
Sounds to me like the threads are stripped on the heater block - on the side of the heatbreak. No way should the heatbeak just push out... The threads for the nozzle/heatbreak are shared and run right through. Sounds like a new heater block is needed.
You win a prize! That was exactly what happened. I'm not sure how it happened. But started doing the hotend rebuild and discovered that the threads on the heatbreak side were completely sheared.
I ordered an entire new hot end, and I also ordered a replacement heatblock, so I should be able to rebuild the current one into a spare.
RE: Trouble with heatbreak and changing nozzles
Sounds to me like the threads are stripped on the heater block - on the side of the heatbreak. No way should the heatbeak just push out... The threads for the nozzle/heatbreak are shared and run right through. Sounds like a new heater block is needed.
You win a prize! That was exactly what happened. I'm not sure how it happened. But started doing the hotend rebuild and discovered that the threads on the heatbreak side were completely sheared.
I ordered an entire new hot end, and I also ordered a replacement heatblock, so I should be able to rebuild the current one into a spare.
Well, that's obviously a pain for you, but great you narrowed it down and get the new part.
I'm new to FDM printing so I too am on a steep and fast learning curve! But I'm fairly good with the mechanics - but lots and lots of configuration possibilities that are able to mess it all up. As I am learning!
Here's hoping you're back in business and the new heater block does the trick 🙂