Series of Printing Problems
Hello,
I have recently got a Prusa i3 MK3S. It prints the samples perfectly fine, but when I try to print a file from the internet (from Thingiverse, converted to GCODE via PrusaSlicer 2.1.1) some weird things happen.
Firstly, at random times, the extruder will dislodge a printing part, but the first layer calibration is fine (I have recalibrated it many times) and the print bed is clean.
Secondly, there is some lag when it is printing, as in it starts extruding later than normal and the filament trails behind the extruder sometimes, occasionally causing the nozzle to be completely coated in a mess of plastic (black Prusa PVA).
Also, the printer seems to be printing variable amounts of filament (visible in split sections in the print) but it always prints the first part of the first layer calibration thicker than the rest (is this normal?).
These issues make printing impossible, but the printer cannot detect any of these problems.
Thanks in advance.
Best Answer by Neophyl:
A few points of interest/concern with the linked 3mf file.
You say you have a mk3s but the printer profile in your project is not configured for a standard prusa mk3s. For example the max print height is set incorrectly and lots of other settings are non default, Also its missing most of the start and end gcode sections. Including all the preheat codes and the mesh bed levelling commands.
The Z hop is also turned off which isnt normal. Usually the prusa profile will raise z slightly on each new layer as it moves over the previous layer. This stops it hitting parts of the print. As you say it sometimes dislodges a print sometimes thats probably the cause or a great contributor to that.
I suggest you run the wizard again and choose and install your printer model. This will create a new correct profile for your printer with all the missing stuff and with correctly tuned settings. The select the proper filament for your material and load in one of the tuned prusa print profile like 0.2 quality or 0.15 quality and try those tuned settings first before using wildly different values.
On your print settings the choice of concentric infill for bottom also is resulting in large gaps on the first layer which changing to rectilinear fixes. That will also help part adhesion as theres more surface area for the first layer. As those surfaces are inside the finished model theres no aesthetic reason to use something like concentric.
Also dont forget to completely clean your spring steel bed sheet thoroughly with dawn or similar and LOTS of hot water to completely remove all traces of finger print grease and oils before printing and dont touch the sheet. That's usually the biggest cause of print dislodging.
RE: Series of Printing Problems
You have a problem with the slicer settings. Check that you have chosen the correct printer values in the slicer, such as e.g. nozzle width, and familiarize yourself with the general settings of the slicer. Usually you should be able to print with the default slicer settings if you have chosen the correct printer when installing the slicer and should not need to fiddle with values like retract, layer height etc. yet for simple prints. You should only need to chose quality, possibly modify temperatures of nozzle and bed and to turn the thingy into the correct position for printing. Make sure no errors in the original code from thingyverse are shown, otherwise have the slicer fix the problems first.
I try to give answers to the best of my ability, but I am not a 3D printing pro by any means, and anything you do you do at your own risk. BTW: I have no food for…
RE: Series of Printing Problems
I'm not the perfect 3D Hero myself but if you attach screenshots from your slicer settings (all tabs) it might help.
I try to give answers to the best of my ability, but I am not a 3D printing pro by any means, and anything you do you do at your own risk. BTW: I have no food for…
RE: Series of Printing Problems
No don’t add screen caps of your settings. There are far too many for that. The best way is to save your project as a .3mf file (Prusa slicer default save project format). That will save all the settings and allow anyone opening it to check everything properly. You will need to zip it up for the forum to accept it.
with a project saved you are more likely to get accurate diagnosis and help.
RE: Series of Printing Problems
Here is the .3mf file, though I'm pretty sure I had all the correct settings.
RE: Series of Printing Problems
Here´s my 2 cents.
I try to give answers to the best of my ability, but I am not a 3D printing pro by any means, and anything you do you do at your own risk. BTW: I have no food for…
RE: Series of Printing Problems
This doesn't seem to have helped. The filament now almost always sticks to the nozzle after being extruded. In the case that this doesn't happen, the extruder dislodges other parts of the print. Because of this, I have not been able to complete the first layer of anything. I have tried adjusting the layer height and recalibrating the first layer, but this didn't work.
RE: Series of Printing Problems
Keep the Printer Settings to Prusa MK3s. 4mm nozzle, and start with the standard print settings in the uppermost dropdown menu (such as e.g. "0,15mm Quality MK3" ). If this does not work yet. raise the temperatures significantly. PLA e.g. to 230 nozzle and 75 bed; PETG to 242 nozzle and 90 bed (Degrees Celsius, that is). I would not have any filament available I could print with temps as low as 215/60 in your example. Your problems indicate that the filament barely leaves the nozzle and turns solid again already instead of remaining in a fluid state until it hits the bed or earlier layers and can properly attach to those.
When printing the original Prusa files from SD card with the same filament, what temps are shown on the display?
I try to give answers to the best of my ability, but I am not a 3D printing pro by any means, and anything you do you do at your own risk. BTW: I have no food for…
RE: Series of Printing Problems
BTW, I´m not sure why you use PVA Filament, which afaik is a water-soluble support material only. Beginners should start with PLA or PETG which both are rather good-natured. I have no own experience with PVA.
I try to give answers to the best of my ability, but I am not a 3D printing pro by any means, and anything you do you do at your own risk. BTW: I have no food for…
RE: Series of Printing Problems
A few points of interest/concern with the linked 3mf file.
You say you have a mk3s but the printer profile in your project is not configured for a standard prusa mk3s. For example the max print height is set incorrectly and lots of other settings are non default, Also its missing most of the start and end gcode sections. Including all the preheat codes and the mesh bed levelling commands.
The Z hop is also turned off which isnt normal. Usually the prusa profile will raise z slightly on each new layer as it moves over the previous layer. This stops it hitting parts of the print. As you say it sometimes dislodges a print sometimes thats probably the cause or a great contributor to that.
I suggest you run the wizard again and choose and install your printer model. This will create a new correct profile for your printer with all the missing stuff and with correctly tuned settings. The select the proper filament for your material and load in one of the tuned prusa print profile like 0.2 quality or 0.15 quality and try those tuned settings first before using wildly different values.
On your print settings the choice of concentric infill for bottom also is resulting in large gaps on the first layer which changing to rectilinear fixes. That will also help part adhesion as theres more surface area for the first layer. As those surfaces are inside the finished model theres no aesthetic reason to use something like concentric.
Also dont forget to completely clean your spring steel bed sheet thoroughly with dawn or similar and LOTS of hot water to completely remove all traces of finger print grease and oils before printing and dont touch the sheet. That's usually the biggest cause of print dislodging.
RE: Series of Printing Problems
The printer and slicer are now working perfectly. Thank you for your time and advice. Though, just3d, if you are printing with PLA (PVA was a typo) you shouldn't set the heatbed higher than 60 degrees or the print will peel off the bed.