Re: Power Supply failure
There is no way that the PS should require that you use 220. I'd do what they said and make sure that the switch is set to 110v. If it fails they will send you a new one. If this is causing issues it would be a good idea for Prusa to update their manual to explicitly tell people to set the switch on the power supply according to their country.
Not sure what switch people are referring to. I've torn down the PRUSA power supply and there is no manual voltage selector. It's an auto-switching 90v-264v PSU. Unless there is a different model they are distributing to some people that has a manual switch...?
Doesn't matter to me either way, as I'm no longer using the stock power supply. Just thought it odd and perhaps confusing to some that people are being told to flip a switch that doesn't exist.
Re: Power Supply failure
I want to make sure I order the right size PSU.
There is the NES-350-24
And the
LRS-350-24
There is also the Meanwell SP-320-24. It's more expensive than the other two options, but it has active PFC. This is the one I went with.
If anyone is interested, I made a conversion case for it that will allow you to re-use the power port, fuse, switch, and power panic board from the original PRUSA PSU... however the case isn't printer mountable, it's wall mountable. Don't want my PSU on my frame.
Re: Power Supply failure
There is no way that the PS should require that you use 220. I'd do what they said and make sure that the switch is set to 110v. If it fails they will send you a new one. If this is causing issues it would be a good idea for Prusa to update their manual to explicitly tell people to set the switch on the power supply according to their country.
Not sure what switch people are referring to. I've torn down the PRUSA power supply and there is no manual voltage selector. It's an auto-switching 90v-264v PSU. Unless there is a different model they are distributing to some people that has a manual switch...?
Doesn't matter to me either way, as I'm no longer using the stock power supply. Just thought it odd and perhaps confusing to some that people are being told to flip a switch that doesn't exist.
If there's no switch then the help desk doesn't know that. But they are saying the power supply is not having any trouble?....
Re: Power Supply failure
If there's no switch then the help desk doesn't know that. But they are saying the power supply is not having any trouble?....
Maybe the MK2 PSU has a manual voltage switch and they are confusing the two. Neither of my MK3 PSUs have one.
Dunno, hopefully they tracked down the problem units and are no longer shipping PSUs that are prone to early expiration. My PSU that died at ~150 hours was shipped with the printer in Mid-December (died a month later). The replacement PSU shipped in late January. I can't tell you if it's any more reliable, but it's every bit as noisy (harmonic rattling and clicking while heating).
Re: Power Supply failure
I want to make sure I order the right size PSU.
There is the NES-350-24
And the
LRS-350-24
There is also the Meanwell SP-320-24. It's more expensive than the other two options, but it has active PFC. This is the one I went with.
If anyone is interested, I made a conversion case for it that will allow you to re-use the power port, fuse, switch, and power panic board from the original PRUSA PSU... however the case isn't printer mountable, it's wall mountable. Don't want my PSU on my frame.
Yes, @josh.w3, it would be great to have the benefit of your case design if you would post it for us. I want to remote mount a Meanwell PSU also. Thanks.
Re: Power Supply failure
There is also the Meanwell SP-320-24. It's more expensive than the other two options, but it has active PFC. This is the one I went with.
If anyone is interested, I made a conversion case for it that will allow you to re-use the power port, fuse, switch, and power panic board from the original PRUSA PSU... however the case isn't printer mountable, it's wall mountable. Don't want my PSU on my frame.
Yes, @josh.w3, it would be great to have the benefit of your case design if you would post it for us. I want to remote mount a Meanwell PSU also. Thanks.
Heads up on the Meanwell SP-320-24... Seems solid, but the fan is louder than desirable. Nice that it has variable fan control, so it ramps up as needed...but even the idle speed is loud. Fortunately I was planning on remote mounting already. I'll keep it because I like having active PFC, I'll just mount it a bit further away now. If you're going for quieter, I'd go with the two other models mentioned above.
Here is the wall-mount case I remixed for it. Holes are sized to match all the components from the stock PRUSA PSU. You need six M4 screws.
Re: Power Supply failure
Mode 2 sounds about right. Pretty frustrating experience right now, and not hearing back from support on a $750 kit doesn't help.
I saw your amazon links on better quality power supplies, but I'm not super comfortable with wiring mains so I'm stuck for now.
I will work to get the latest up on github. Hopefully tonight, but no guarantees, I'm at an offsite work function.
edit: I just threw them on thingiverse. Let me know if you can get this and if there are any issues.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2783871
Nice design, but my two cents... I would refrain from fastening this (or PRUSA's stock PSU) to both the horizontal and vertical frame members. I'd use one or the other, but not both. As has been pointed out in other threads, even the stock PSU will almost undoubtedly warp the frame if tightened down on both axes.
I have my stock PSU fastened only to the vertical frame member, and loosely fastened at that. Mine too significantly contributes to the overall vibration noise of the printer when it's fully tightened down to even just the vertical frame. I will likely move to a completely external PSU when my Meanwell comes in, to completely avoid all possibility of frame warping and vibration noise.
Hi. I agree that the PS is a poor angle brace. I'm not sure it needs a brace anyway. When I built mine I noticed how out of square the PS was in relation to the frame so I never tightened the bolts through the frame. I did tighten the bottom ones. The bolts through the frame just support the cantilever on the bottom bolts. So.. I made this locator for the top of the PS. It snaps onto the vertical frame and slides down over the PS. I pulled the bolts out of the frame. PS has support but doesn't load the frame..
Re: Power Supply failure
There is also the Meanwell SP-320-24. It's more expensive than the other two options, but it has active PFC. This is the one I went with.
Heads up on the Meanwell SP-320-24... Seems solid, but the fan is louder than desirable. Nice that it has variable fan control, so it ramps up as needed...but even the idle speed is loud. Fortunately I was planning on remote mounting already. I'll keep it because I like having active PFC, I'll just mount it a bit further away now. If you're going for quieter, I'd go with the two other models mentioned above.
Here is the wall-mount case I remixed for it. Holes are sized to match all the components from the stock PRUSA PSU. You need six M4 screws.
Thanks for the posting!
Re: Power Supply failure
I want to make sure I order the right size PSU.
There is the NES-350-24
And the
LRS-350-24
There is also the Meanwell SP-320-24. It's more expensive than the other two options, but it has active PFC. This is the one I went with.
If anyone is interested, I made a conversion case for it that will allow you to re-use the power port, fuse, switch, and power panic board from the original PRUSA PSU... however the case isn't printer mountable, it's wall mountable. Don't want my PSU on my frame.
I would like to use your conversion case as I will want to use the Meanwell 320W/24v model as well. I use Solidworks so a Step fill would be very useful if you could offer one.
Thanks for the files they are great! Please let us know what you think of the Meanwell 320w model when you get it going.
Thanks!
MK3 Kit, Designed, built 4x4 CNC Plasma Cutting Table, Motorcycles Bigdogbro's Adventures
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5djrxBeeOKB9_6rHnn6G8A
Re: Power Supply failure
Thanks.
I hope you mean the NES-350-24 and not the 12. The 12 wouldn’t work. As it’s 12v not 24v.
I’ll order the NES-350-24.
Thanks again.
Jason.
Aargh, you are right! I ordered this (24v version). No idea how my link copy/paste/search skills messed that up. (it won't let me edit that post right now, hopefully nobody buys it off of that recommendation).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KTJE3L4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Re: Power Supply failure
Are those files for the slim 350w mean well PSU or the regular one ?
I want to make sure I order the right size PSU.
There is the NES-350-24
And the
LRS-350-24
Jason.
I have the "Mean Well NES-350-12 12V 350 Watt Ul Switching Power Supply 110-240 Volt" and built the model for that.
(note! wrong model, get 24v version!)
xxxhttps://www.amazon.com/NES-350-12-Switching-Power-Supply-110-240/dp/B007K2H0GI
However, the scad file is included, so adjusting to a different PSU should be doable.
Paul,
I've printed and mounted the PSU with your model. There is a slight problem though. The joint that connects to the aluminum extrusion is too high and the bed hits the joint. Can you lower it a bit?
Thanks.
I knew I was stupid to post before I'd mounted with it.
Yes, I can lower that angle brace, I know exactly what you mean. I 'dry mounted' it, but hadn't printed with it yet.
BTW, the other thing I'm thinking of doing is printing only the brace (which will still need the fix you describe), and remixing the rest of it to be mounted away from the printer (under the table where the fan isn't an issue). On the cross-brace, I'll put either a 120v switch (so I don't have to reach under the table) or a dual-throw 12v switch. I want to have a highly accessible power-off switch in case my wife or kids walk by and see a derailed print.
It will probably be tomorrow before I can make the edit. I'm traveling, and could make the edit but not test it.
Re: Power Supply failure
I was out searching for STEP files of the Meanwell SP-320 and the NES-350w power supplies but was only able to find the RSP-320 which is thinner at 30mm and the mount holes are different as well.
Has anyone found either of these models? Looked on GrabCAD and Soldiworks 3D Content Central so far. Will continue....
The Meanwell SP-320 and the NES-350w power supplies have the same outer dimensions. Didn't check other mounting holes and such.
MK3 Kit, Designed, built 4x4 CNC Plasma Cutting Table, Motorcycles Bigdogbro's Adventures
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5djrxBeeOKB9_6rHnn6G8A
Re: Power Supply failure
Thanks for the files they are great! Please let us know what you think of the Meanwell 320w model when you get it going.
Already posted my thoughts on the SP-320-24 above. Seems solid, but the fan is loud. I'm going to end up extending the 24v cables so I can mount it further away than I'd originally planned.
Re: Power Supply failure
My PSU on my MK3 (pre-assembled) died today in the middle of a print. The fuse just above the PSU power plug blew, I replaced it this evening with an exact match, and it blew instantly as well. Support is sending me a replacement on Monday, with 3-5 days transit time. I had about 60-70 print hours on it, and received it on January 29th. Very disappointed, but I hope the replacement solves the problem for more than 70 hours.
Prusa XL 5THPrusa MK4. Atomic Slate Gray CfPETG partsPrusa Mini+ Kit (Atomic Perfect Purple) with Bondtech IFS and Revo MicroVoron 2.4 350*350*500Voron Trident 250Voron Trident 350Ender3BeltKit (heavily modified)Many other small upgrades for these printers as tinkering never ends.
Re: Power Supply failure
Do you have 110V PSU?
Does anyone had 230V PSU failure so far?
Re: Power Supply failure
Do you have 110V PSU?
Does anyone had 230V PSU failure so far?
They are auto detecting PSUs. There is only one version that handles both voltages and switches automatically between the two. My second mk3 PSU failed a few minutes ago. I’m feeling everyone’s pain bigtime lol.
Re: Power Supply failure
Aha...ok, in that case i'll ask different: do you live in 110V or 230V country? Somehow it seems to me that PSU's die mostly in US...?
Re: Power Supply failure
Aha...ok, in that case i'll ask different: do you live in 110V or 230V country? Somehow it seems to me that PSU's die mostly in US...?
I live in the US. 120v here. Law requires that houses are supplied with two 120v legs 180 degrees out of phase of one another. I’m debating on adding a 240V outlet for my next PSU. Probably overkill but oh well lol.
Re: Power Supply failure
Aha...ok, in that case i'll ask different: do you live in 110V or 230V country? Somehow it seems to me that PSU's die mostly in US...?
I live in the US. 120v here. Law requires that houses are supplied with two 120v legs 180 degrees out of phase of one another. I’m debating on adding a 240V outlet for my next PSU. Probably overkill but oh well lol.
Unfortunately after going to that trouble you'd still have a PRUSA PSU that clicks and rattles and is arguably underpowered for the MK3. Seems more practical to just buy a decent 3rd party PSU. Then you'll have a quieter power supply you can trust, and won't be tied to one specific power outlet in your house.
Re: Power Supply failure
Quieter? Not necesarilly, or should i say probably not. More powerfull PSU's have tendency to include a fan for cooling, which was already confirmed in this thread.