Re: Power Supply failure
Here's a question for you all. If you move your print head manually (side to side) does your menu screen light up? Is that normal? I know the general mechanics of why. It just isn't something I run into a lot and it has bugged me since i first set up the kit.
DC motors will create some power when they're oscillated. The next time you're at a store that sells appliances try giving the drum of an LG washing machine a spin when it's unplugged, it will turn on for a fraction of a second. It's completely normal.
Re: Power Supply failure
Mode 2 sounds about right. Pretty frustrating experience right now, and not hearing back from support on a $750 kit doesn't help.
I saw your amazon links on better quality power supplies, but I'm not super comfortable with wiring mains so I'm stuck for now.
I will work to get the latest up on github. Hopefully tonight, but no guarantees, I'm at an offsite work function.
edit: I just threw them on thingiverse. Let me know if you can get this and if there are any issues.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2783871
Nice design, but my two cents... I would refrain from fastening this (or PRUSA's stock PSU) to both the horizontal and vertical frame members. I'd use one or the other, but not both. As has been pointed out in other threads, even the stock PSU will almost undoubtedly warp the frame if tightened down on both axes.
I have my stock PSU fastened only to the vertical frame member, and loosely fastened at that. Mine too significantly contributes to the overall vibration noise of the printer when it's fully tightened down to even just the vertical frame. I will likely move to a completely external PSU when my Meanwell comes in, to completely avoid all possibility of frame warping and vibration noise.
Re: Power Supply failure
Here's a question for you all. If you move your print head manually (side to side) does your menu screen light up? Is that normal? I know the general mechanics of why. It just isn't something I run into a lot and it has bugged me since i first set up the kit.
DC motors will create some power when they're oscillated. The next time you're at a store that sells appliances try giving the drum of an LG washing machine a spin when it's unplugged, it will turn on for a fraction of a second. It's completely normal.
Sounds good. Thanks for the confirmation. Now to wait and hope for a reply from support for the dead power supply
Re: Power Supply failure
Mode 2 sounds about right. Pretty frustrating experience right now, and not hearing back from support on a $750 kit doesn't help.
I saw your amazon links on better quality power supplies, but I'm not super comfortable with wiring mains so I'm stuck for now.
I will work to get the latest up on github. Hopefully tonight, but no guarantees, I'm at an offsite work function.
edit: I just threw them on thingiverse. Let me know if you can get this and if there are any issues.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2783871
Thanks so much! I will print this out later today.
Re: Power Supply failure
Funny. The discussion of a PS mount for after market PS's had my looking for and not finding the stock PS mount. Anybody know where it is?
Re: Power Supply failure
Here's a question for you all. If you move your print head manually (side to side) does your menu screen light up? Is that normal? I know the general mechanics of why. It just isn't something I run into a lot and it has bugged me since i first set up the kit.
That is totally normal. The difference between an electric motor and a generator is which direction things are going. In a motor, current causes the motor to turn. In a generator, turning the windings generate a current.
When you turn a motor, it generates current which generates voltage. This is enough to turn on the display and even boot the Einsy (for a moment). A good reason not to do extremely fast movements with your motors when things are turned off.
Re: Power Supply failure
Nice design, but my two cents... I would refrain from fastening this (or PRUSA's stock PSU) to both the horizontal and vertical frame members. I'd use one or the other, but not both. As has been pointed out in other threads, even the stock PSU will almost undoubtedly warp the frame if tightened down on both axes.
I have my stock PSU fastened only to the vertical frame member, and loosely fastened at that. Mine too significantly contributes to the overall vibration noise of the printer when it's fully tightened down to even just the vertical frame. I will likely move to a completely external PSU when my Meanwell comes in, to completely avoid all possibility of frame warping and vibration noise.
I hear you. I was taking different advice, which was that the Prusa design was specifically designed to cross bracing between the vertical and horizontal.
Attaching the PSU to only one would be trivial (it would have saved me *so* much work), but I made the potentially false assumption that Prusa had a reason for their design.
Since the PSU is attached to the vertical frame in a specific location, but slides along the horizontal extrusions, I would think that the warpage would be minimized (assuming you keep the frame vertical as you tighten the rail connection). With that, it will give significant dampening to any vibration in the [edit] vertical-frame.
At this point, I'll take any vibration damping (which I tend to believe without data is real and may influence prints) over any warpage (which I haven't seen an argument for). That said, it's easy enough for anybody to not connect the y-rail connection.
Were I designing from scratch with no desire to brace the frame to the y-rails, my design should be easily modifiable to loose the brace and add a connection to the side of the y-rail.
Can you point me to the discussions on Prusa PSU warping the frame? I'd be interested to see the measurements or arguments people made.
Re: Power Supply failure
Here's a question for you all. If you move your print head manually (side to side) does your menu screen light up? Is that normal? I know the general mechanics of why. It just isn't something I run into a lot and it has bugged me since i first set up the kit.
That is totally normal. The difference between an electric motor and a generator is which direction things are going. In a motor, current causes the motor to turn. In a generator, turning the windings generate a current.
When you turn a motor, it generates current which generates voltage. This is enough to turn on the display and even boot the Einsy (for a moment). A good reason not to do extremely fast movements with your motors when things are turned off.
The stock mount is not on github, for whatever reason. I asked, but Prusa simply indicate "it wasn't up yet". It may be a liability thing, as printing that mount means messing with mains voltage.
I had to reproduce the parts of the design I needed from measurements.
Re: Power Supply failure
Can you point me to the discussions on Prusa PSU warping the frame? I'd be interested to see the measurements or arguments people made.
I forget which thread it was in, probably one of the 'x-axis' or y-axis' threads. Unfortunately wasn't an academic discussion with measurements and counterpoints. Just a point made and agreement to it being next to impossible for the manufacturing tolerances of the PSU casing and screw holes, plus the tolerances in the 3D printed case, to allow for anything close to the highly exact measurements required to NOT warp the frame. I fully agree that taking a carefully custom designed aluminum frame, then bracing it across its axes with a cheaply manufactured 3rd-party power supply casing and a 3D printed part is...an unfortunate decision. You're inherently ruining the high level of exactness and specificity in your frame design with several likely inconsistent unknowns.
Re: Power Supply failure
Here's a question for you all. If you move your print head manually (side to side) does your menu screen light up? Is that normal? I know the general mechanics of why. It just isn't something I run into a lot and it has bugged me since i first set up the kit.
That is totally normal. The difference between an electric motor and a generator is which direction things are going. In a motor, current causes the motor to turn. In a generator, turning the windings generate a current.
When you turn a motor, it generates current which generates voltage. This is enough to turn on the display and even boot the Einsy (for a moment). A good reason not to do extremely fast movements with your motors when things are turned off.
The stock mount is not on github, for whatever reason. I asked, but Prusa simply indicate "it wasn't up yet". It may be a liability thing, as printing that mount means messing with mains voltage.
I had to reproduce the parts of the design I needed from measurements.
Thanks for the update.
Re: Power Supply failure
I hear you. I was taking different advice, which was that the Prusa design was specifically designed to cross bracing between the vertical and horizontal.
Attaching the PSU to only one would be trivial (it would have saved me *so* much work), but I made the potentially false assumption that Prusa had a reason for their design.
For sure, I definitely see their reason for using a brace (and yours for keeping it), bracing the frame creates a higher level of stiffness and makes the machine sturdier over all. The missed opportunity is PRUSA not producing a custom brace element themselves, so that they could have much more control over the tolerances (ie. aluminum, injection molded plastic, etc). In this case, I believe you are better off sacrificing that extra frame stiffness than you are warping your frame with an ill-fitting part.
The test that convinced me to decouple mine from the frame: I completely unscrewed the bottom two screws on the PSU base that fasten it to the aluminum extrusion. Then while positioned over the printer looking straight down the vertical frame element, i pressed my thumb down on the tab on the PSU base that contacts the extrusion. The tab descends very slightly before resting on the extrusion, and simultaneously the top of the frame visibly flexes backward. Before testing again I removed the PSU from the frame entirely and reinstalled it on the vertical frame to make sure it wasn't just sitting too high the first time. Visibly the same result each time. (Previously found my frame to be square with an L-square after the initial steps of the build, but never checked again after adding PSU and all other components).
Re: Power Supply failure
For those that had a power supply go bad, were any of them connected to a UPS?
I happened to have mine connected to a UPS (which my Mac is on). It's not under battery backup, just the surge protection side. I have the flickering lights in the room while the bed is heating (and clicking). I've printed PETG (240C / 90C) for several prints over 4hr each.
Running the printer on A UPS might not be recommended as the AC signal (sine wave) is not the same as it would be on the wall outlet. Some UPSs do weird things to outputs especially when running on battery.
-Eric
So now you have me thinking? Out in the garage I have a 220 plug with higher amperage. It's been said that no one has heard of a non-US power supply acting in this manner.
I'm going to see if they have a 220v US version and review other options.
SPEAKING of power supplies, has anyone figured out how much a 3D printer, more specifically the MK3 costs for increased power usage? I know the price would be different for different areas and I have an inline meter I'm going to use to figure it out.
It's just that if you routinely running prints over night and daily then how does that affect your bill?
Re: Power Supply failure
So now you have me thinking? Out in the garage I have a 220 plug with higher amperage. It's been said that no one has heard of a non-US power supply acting in this manner.
I'm going to see if they have a 220v US version and review other options.
There is only one version of the power supply. It auto-switches from 110v to 220v (technically it can accept 90v-264v).
I think what's been said is that it may act differently when connected to 220v power...but it's the same model of PSU.
Re: Power Supply failure
For those that had a power supply go bad, were any of them connected to a UPS?
I happened to have mine connected to a UPS (which my Mac is on). It's not under battery backup, just the surge protection side. I have the flickering lights in the room while the bed is heating (and clicking). I've printed PETG (240C / 90C) for several prints over 4hr each.
Running the printer on A UPS might not be recommended as the AC signal (sine wave) is not the same as it would be on the wall outlet. Some UPSs do weird things to outputs especially when running on battery.
-Eric
If they are in fact not having problems with the PS in countries other than the US, then I'm wondering if I need to use the 220 outlet in my garage? I talked to support and I didn't like the party line of what is said towards the end below.
SUPPORT: 17:28
then not sure what specific case those are about but there is no issue with 110V in USD by any chance
SUPPORT: 17:28
just make sure you set the voltage to 110V from the switcher of the PSU
SUPPORT: 17:28
check on that and you'll be good to use the printer right away
SUPPORT: 17:29
MK3 PSU has voltage detection so you don't even need to change it from the mechanical little switcher
Me17:29
If your company reads the "Power Supply failure" thread under the "Original Prusa i3 MK3" forum then you will see the errors everyone is having, but you probably know that.
SUPPORT: 17:29
even most of our customers are in USA ... statistically may happen the most of the cases you read about are cases from US lol
SUPPORT: 17:30
all issues are tracked down
SUPPORT: 17:30
there were coupld of relevant issues in the first month batch but we got to the source of the issue and we could explain
SUPPORT: 17:30
the PSU were good or not cause of significant issues
Re: Power Supply failure
From my post above have the users that had their power supply fail, did you use the default "auto-switching" on your PS or did you switch it to 110v?
SUPPORT: 17:28
just make sure you set the voltage to 110V from the switcher of the PSU
SUPPORT: 17:28
check on that and you'll be good to use the printer right away
SUPPORT: 17:29
MK3 PSU has voltage detection so you don't even need to change it from the mechanical little switcher
Re: Power Supply failure
edit: I just threw them on thingiverse. Let me know if you can get this and if there are any issues.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2783871
Are those files for the slim 350w mean well PSU or the regular one ?
I want to make sure I order the right size PSU.
There is the NES-350-24
And the
LRS-350-24
I just got my MK3 kit today and want a backup power supply on hand.
Thanks in advance.
Jason.
Re: Power Supply failure
Are those files for the slim 350w mean well PSU or the regular one ?
I want to make sure I order the right size PSU.
There is the NES-350-24
And the
LRS-350-24
Jason.
I have the "Mean Well NES-350-12 12V 350 Watt Ul Switching Power Supply 110-240 Volt" and built the model for that.
https://www.amazon.com/NES-350-12-Switching-Power-Supply-110-240/dp/B007K2H0GI
However, the scad file is included, so adjusting to a different PSU should be doable.
Re: Power Supply failure
Thanks.
I hope you mean the NES-350-24 and not the 12. The 12 wouldn’t work. As it’s 12v not 24v.
I’ll order the NES-350-24.
Thanks again.
Jason.
Re: Power Supply failure
Are those files for the slim 350w mean well PSU or the regular one ?
I want to make sure I order the right size PSU.
There is the NES-350-24
And the
LRS-350-24
Jason.
I have the "Mean Well NES-350-12 12V 350 Watt Ul Switching Power Supply 110-240 Volt" and built the model for that.
https://www.amazon.com/NES-350-12-Switching-Power-Supply-110-240/dp/B007K2H0GI
However, the scad file is included, so adjusting to a different PSU should be doable.
Paul,
I've printed and mounted the PSU with your model. There is a slight problem though. The joint that connects to the aluminum extrusion is too high and the bed hits the joint. Can you lower it a bit?
Thanks.
Re: Power Supply failure
If they are in fact not having problems with the PS in countries other than the US, then I'm wondering if I need to use the 220 outlet in my garage? I talked to support and I didn't like the party line of what is said towards the end below.
There is no way that the PS should require that you use 220. I'd do what they said and make sure that the switch is set to 110v. If it fails they will send you a new one. If this is causing issues it would be a good idea for Prusa to update their manual to explicitly tell people to set the switch on the power supply according to their country.
That said, if these power supplies advertise an auto-switching feature and the feature is not working then it is something that the vendor needs to correct.