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My hot end is fubar  

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PrintIR
(@printir)
New Member
My hot end is fubar

Background first.
I've had this printer since January and have had good times printing with it. I clean the nozzle and bed everytime I start a new print, and only in the week before was when I started having weird clogging issues.

About a month ago I tried to replace the default nozzle on the Prusa MK3 with some other generic ones I found online for the E3D in the hopes of solving this issue and also trying to print more detailed, prints.

However I have yet to get a chance to see if they even fit because when I was trying to remove the default .4mm nozzle it broke off and the threading stayed inside. I followed the process as outlined by this video .

I tried to do this myself. I bought a 50$ bolt extractor kit and decided I could still use the block, but I didn't bother to remove any of the cables attached because I was nervous to. I'm concerned I broke either the thermistor or the heat cable attached to the heater block because when I tried to go back and preheat the printer for 280*C the printer only heated up to 182C, instead of 280C. It did say heat temp error and then went into cooldown after, but I am unsure what that means.

Now I have a heat block with an extractor end ALSO broken off inside the part and I have no idea how I'm going to salvage this. Right now I'm going to try buying a new heat block, but I need advice on what to buy or what I can do to trouble shoot the cables attached to my damaged heatblock.

Do you think I need a new thermistor and heater cartridge cable, in addition to a new heat block? If so, does this part come with everything I need to start printing again? The thermistor and the heater cartridge? https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/mk3-and-mk3s-printer-parts/208-mk3-e3d-v6-hotend-assembled.html

I really wanted to do this DIY myself but I don't want to spend another 50-70$ on a workaround when at that price I could've just bought a new E3D hotend.

Posted : 14/04/2019 12:01 am
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Illustrious Member
Re: My hot end is fubar

You most likely missed the minor detail the hot end must be heated to 285c before attempting to break the nozzle free. It also needs to be heated to 285c before the final 3 Newton-meter torque down.

Posted : 14/04/2019 2:15 am
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