Re: how do I start printing without bed leveling?
Yeah that’s exactly what i wanted to do after I have y-rod holders that do not wiggle. I’ll keep you posted! Thanks for now
Re: how do I start printing without bed leveling?
Yeah that’s exactly what i wanted to do after I have y-rod holders that do not wiggle. I’ll keep you posted! Thanks for now
Sounds like we’re onto something!
And I really appreciate the feedback!
Re: how do I start printing without bed leveling?
It’s me who does appreciate your response. I wish there were more of you 😄
Happy Christmas!
Re: how do I start printing without bed leveling?
I've been playing with it a bit, adjusted the Y rod mounts so that the edges of the printing area is in level. Unfortunately edges are a bit higher than the center, so I ended up by putting pieces of kapton tape on the heated bed in spots where it needed to be higher. calibrated 1st layer after every step and watched the results.
after multiple attempts a test pattern is printing and I can't wait it to finish. 0.2mm single layer pattern. So far it looks MUCH better than before.
But still, the mesh bed leveling should correct what I have done with kapton tape layers, shouldn't it?
Re: how do I start printing without bed leveling?
it's quite good indeed. what do you say?
Re: how do I start printing without bed leveling?
I'd have to get really picky to complain about that result...
Good work my man, so where do we stand?
To answer your question re "the leveling should compensate, right?", well it kind of depends, the process variation is in the PEI powder coat, not the steel sheet right?
It's the sheet that triggers the inductive probe, not the PEI...so if you've got an un-even enough coating of PEI in one area, well then that's only going to change the trigger point if it's built up thick on the *opposite side* of the plate...
Thus: A PEI powder coat process variation on the *top* would (in theory) have no impact on the PINDA trigger level.
Re: how do I start printing without bed leveling?
I wasn’t specific enough about what is not flat. First i was manually calibrating the heated bed level without the sheet on. The bed itself is a bit non-flat, therefore the kapton pieces. Edges are in level when running the nozzle over the surface.
Without Kapton tape on the bed I would end up with bent printing surface, just like before. On some spots there are three layers of kapton tape on the bed. I think this is a value PINDA probe should really pick up, shouldn’t it? It’s roughly 0.1mm difference
Re: how do I start printing without bed leveling?
There has been a few topics on fine bed leveling. This is one solution
https://github.com/PrusaOwners/prusaowners/wiki/Bed_Leveling_without_Wave_Springs
Re: how do I start printing without bed leveling?
Well ... how come I haven’t found this yet? Many thanks!
Re: how do I start printing without bed leveling?
Well ... how come I haven’t found this yet? Many thanks!
It is oretty easy with search. Google may help more than the forum search.
If you want to try addition methods of adjust Z or leveling:
--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
Re: how do I start printing without bed leveling?
Well ... how come I haven’t found this yet? Many thanks!
Sometimes its just luck finding the thing our after. Look for hyperfine bed leveling.
due to the automesh bed leveling many just think this is the solution but its just a get around part fix. yes it works but if the bed is too far out then it doesn't help.
For example someone may be struggling with a large print that will not stick to the bed. you then get the usual: clean the sheet with IPA, use glue, use a brim, alter the Live Z height.
Hope the bed leveling helps, its something i will be doing at some point. luckily i can get away with mine as it is for now
Re: how do I start printing without bed leveling?
Yeah thanks. Problem is that i don’t know what correct english words to use when googling. i still don’t know how to call for example my non-flat print surface. Bumpy? No, powder coating is bumpy. Wavy? Nope ... then it seems I’m alone with this problem.
And I’m a developer, I can google 😂
Thanks a lot
Re: how do I start printing without bed leveling?
One of the so called advantages of delta designs is that the print bed does not move so it can be dead flat. I know one that that was built with a granite surface plate to be flat to within one hundredth of a micron... and then they ran into the limits imposed by geometry of the Delta kinematics systems...
Last I heard the had gone to .9 steppers and ever finer micro stepping... this is a student project at a junior college but I expect this sort of exploration of the limits of Filament based printing goes on everywhere.
The Core XY Railcore2 folks are using 3 lead-screw steppers to move their special alloy machined tooling plate bed up and down... e3d has gone to bonding a silicone heater to its aluminum heated bed design by etching its lower surface so that the line power heater is heat bonded into the metal and then stress relieved and machined flat, in the product line of heated beds that it is developing. given the relationship of Prusa with E3D I will not be surprised to see these sort of beds show up in a Prusa Product in the future.
This hobby is still in its early stages of development sort of like personal computers were in the 70s and 80s. and as a veteran of those years (6502 assembly language programer fitting things like mass storage driver software in to less than 4 k of ram... I look at the size of "small programs" like Slic3r-pr at under 50 meg and it is sort of a wonder that we did so much with so little back then.. using punched paper tape and then audio cassette tape for program storage.... it was an exciting time just as affordable 3d printing is today.
Re: how do I start printing without bed leveling?
Yeah thanks. Problem is that i don’t know what correct english words to use when googling. i still don’t know how to call for example my non-flat print surface. Bumpy? No, powder coating is bumpy. Wavy? Nope ... then it seems I’m alone with this problem.
And I’m a developer, I can google 😂
Thanks a lot
Don't use google too much, you could break it. Then we will all be stuck 😂
Re: how do I start printing without bed leveling?
Yeah right 🙂
RE: how do I start printing without bed leveling?
I realize I am two years late for this, but in case anyone in the future is looking for this information, I'll post it here.
If you want to home all without mesh bed leveling, add the W flag to the G28 command: G28 W
If you simply looked at the Gcode output from prusaslicer, you would see that right after the hotend gets to temp, Prusa homes all without mesh bed leveling (G28 W), then uses a separate command to mesh bed level (G80). If you simply delete the G80 line, then your printer should not perform mesh bed leveling before the print.
RE: how do I start printing without bed leveling?
Hi,
how do I start printing without bed leveling please? Without G29 it does home everything but it starts printing too high. Is there any way to tell the printer to perform bed leveling only in home position?
thanks
Hey man, did you ever get a straight answer on how to disable the automatic bed leveling? I have the same issue as you. The PINDA is simply not accurate enough. I also did the nyloc mod so I just want my first layer to be fixed without the PINDA measuring anything.
RE: how do I start printing without bed leveling?
Just avoid the command G80, it'll look something like this:
G80 N7 R5; mesh bed leveling
But, the PINDA is temp sensitive, so depending on when and where is is, and whether you are printing fresh or after another print, will affect it's accuracy. I normalize the PINDA to a preset temp so every rin it starts the same. Doing this solved a lot of layer one issues.
RE: how do I start printing without bed leveling?
Hi,
how do I start printing without bed leveling please? Without G29 it does home everything but it starts printing too high. Is there any way to tell the printer to perform bed leveling only in home position?
thanks
Hey, has anyone solved this problem in the meantime? For a research project, I am trying to print on top of a prefabricated thermoplastic plate. This plate is glued to the normal smooth PEI sheet before starting the print. Of course, mesh bed levelling cannot be done, as the nozzle would crash into the plate, which can be quite thick. I have removed the G80 command, and replaced it with G30 (Single Z-Probe), which does seem to execute (as it is run after the homing, it probes the plate at the initial position, where the plate does not extend). But then the first layer calibration offset is not applied, so even the purge line is printed to high.
RE: how do I start printing without bed leveling?
Hey, has anyone solved this problem in the meantime? For a research project, I am trying to print on top of a prefabricated thermoplastic plate. This plate is glued to the normal smooth PEI sheet before starting the print. Of course, mesh bed levelling cannot be done, as the nozzle would crash into the plate, which can be quite thick. I have removed the G80 command, and replaced it with G30 (Single Z-Probe), which does seem to execute (as it is run after the homing, it probes the plate at the initial position, where the plate does not extend). But then the first layer calibration offset is not applied, so even the purge line is printed to high.
Very interesting question, I would also like the answer for that. No experience, but some ideas:
- In my startup code for the MK2.5 I have this line:
G80 ; mesh bed leveling
Delete or comment this line out. (as mentioned above in this thread).
I would suggest:
- leave the G28 W in the startup code, this will do autohome (and I am not sure:) also take care the Z-adjust is done?
- In the slicer create a merged object with these parts:
- a small box
- a little bigger negative box to hide the first one
- and the object you want to print can be place on any level you want 🙂
and prusaslicer will complain a bit, but the g-code is generated.
see images 
- Did not test this on the printer (yet), so maybe that throws an error.
Maybe helpful?
Please let us know how you solved it. Regards, Eef
We will do what we have always done. We will find hope in the impossible.