Heatbreak question
I see several different kinds of heatbreaks, my question is simple. Which is best and why. First one is the all metal one with about a 2mm end hole at the nozzle end. The second one has a PTFE tube in the nozzle end. The third is a TI heatbreak with about a 2mm hole at the nozzle end, and does it require any different settings? Everybody wants to sell them, but nobody shares any information why theirs is the best.
Thanks,
Larry
RE: Heatbreak question
E3D makes great heat breaks. MicroSwiss also has one that works well. There are hundreds of Chinese copies out there. A few use titanium for its thermal properties (less transfer of heat between heater block and heat sink). Some use non-stick coatings.
Using name brands - and I mean purchasing from a seller that warrants the product is from a name brand, not a clone - generally are better quality. I mean that in the sense of consistent quality: you know what you are getting is very close to what you already have. Clones, like the heat breaks that have Teflon all the way down the break are typically cheap clones that use PFTE tubing to avoid friction of poor machining.
There are internal differences, too. diameters, steps, etc. Prusa has a custom E3D-V6 heat break. The "why" behind the step in their design is a mystery, but supposedly it helps with MMU filament changes. MicroSwiss has a step, but it is reversed from the Prusa step, and my guess it is about heat transfer.
So do you buy a Makita battery or a cheap bulk Chinese knock off battery? The Makita battery may not have the best capacity spec, but every one of them will perform about the same and last; where as the cheap batteries will be hit or miss. You pay for quality control.
