Firmware Help: Updated MK3 with MK3S Firmware  

RE: Firmware Help: Updated MK3 with MK3S Firmware

Also, I tried to just do a straight firmware "upgrade" to the MK3 firmware, but also times out 

Thoughts?

RE: Firmware Help: Updated MK3 with MK3S Firmware

I decided to do a clean reset and re-install the correct MK3 firmware.   That was successful.  I completed the initial setup and calibration and am now doing a benchy.  So far, the benchy seems to be printing correctly.

gene

RE: Firmware Help: Updated MK3 with MK3S Firmware

What you did is correct. For reverting, from my experience, you have to reset or clear all settings. This will allow you to re-load any version of firmware desired. From the manual section 7.2.6 (see below), to revert firmware back you will need to select the "all data" option. This is safest and usually necessary selection due to changes in the firmware.

7.2.6 Factory reset
The factory reset is used when troubleshooting the printer and resetting it to the factory
state.
Entering the factory reset menu:
1. Press and release the reset button(marked X and positioned under the control
knob on the LCD panel)
2. Press and hold the control knobuntil you hear a beep
3. Release the control knob
Options:
● Languageoption resets the language preference.
● Statistics will erase all the recorded print time and material from the memory.
● Shipping prepwhich resets only the printer language selection. All the calibration
data including the Live adjust Z remain intact. Even though the calibration data are
still present and functional, the printer will prompt the user once to run the Calibrate Z
function. This “light” factory reset is mainly used for resetting of assembled printers
before shipping out of the factory so that users can select their language and run
Calibrate Z after unpacking.
● All datawhich resets everything including all calibration data and the whole
EEPROM is cleaned. After this reset, the user is expected to go through the
calibration flow again, except setting the probe height.
If you experience random glitches after a firmware update, or after a printer upgrade, use the
All data option.

RE: Firmware Help: Updated MK3 with MK3S Firmware

I've had to do a factory reset a few times. Don't forget:

• XYZ calibration
• PID temp tuning
• PINDA temp tuning
• ECOR correction
• Live-Z (now with more sheets!)

RE: Firmware Help: Updated MK3 with MK3S Firmware

• PINDA temp tuning

PINDA tuning (Temp calibration in the menus) is questionable.  There are known issues with it actually making matters worse than the default "standard" coefficient data Prusa adds to the firmware.

• ECOR correction

A lot of pain for little gain

• Linear Acceleration

Helps seams and corners.

RE: Firmware Help: Updated MK3 with MK3S Firmware

Posted by: Tim

• PINDA temp tuning

PINDA tuning (Temp calibration in the menus) is questionable.  There are known issues with it actually making matters worse than the default "standard" coefficient data Prusa adds to the firmware.

It works quite well IME. I do the PINDA warmup as well, but I get very good and consistent 1st layers. YMMV and all that.

• ECOR correction

A lot of pain for little gain

Not in my case. In my case, it effectively eliminated the salmon skin effect. Again, YMMV but I think it's a bit premature to write off a procedure based on your single observations. 

• Linear Acceleration

Helps seams and corners.

Yup.

RE: Firmware Help: Updated MK3 with MK3S Firmware

https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/issues/1454

https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/issues/1167

https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/issues/1156

The methodology for performing a Temp Calibration is subject to multiple mechanical variables - and while it can work if the user is lucky - it can just as easily not work if the user is unlucky.  Generally - a calibration requires fixed and reliable references. And the algorithm being used has neither.   

If a user is convinced the heat bed does not deform as it changes temperatures, using the algorithm might work.  If a user knows the bed does in fact deform, as almost all beds do as they heat, then using the algorithm will just as likely fail.  

Setting the M860 to a predefined temperature, like 40c, provides all of the benefits of repeatable mesh leveling, and eliminates the need for the Temp Calibration to be precise (which it isn't). 

ECOR is helpful, and I wasn't trying to say it isn't.  But it is a lot of effort for what can be described as a minor improvement in surface quality.  The entire 0.9 degree motor VFA thread that has been ongoing for years is testament to that detail.