Success! Few noobie questions
First, I wanted to say that my MK3 kit arrived and took about 8 to 9 hours to put it together. My son and I had a great time assembling it (he's nine and of course was looking forward to the Haribo gummy treats). The packaging on this Prusa unit was absolutely incredible!! I am highly impressed with the labeling of the parts along with the detailed instructions (online & manual) with diagrams, etc. Very nice job Prusa and will definitely recommend to others!!
So, my first prints went very well - minor layer shift on one and I think that's because it detected a crash do it hitting my hand while taking a picture. I have printed quite a bit so far of parts I've designed and have a few questions:
1). When I go to print, I first preheat the nozzle/bed via the menu for the material I'm using (mostly PLA) and then select "Load filament". My issue is that I'm not always using Prusa PLA, which is the only PLA setting in the menu. This preheats the nozzle to 215 and 60 for the bed. This nozzle temp is too hot for my Hatchbox PLA and was wondering if I have to manually preheat the nozzle/bed via the Settings -> Temperature menu instead? I would prefer the preheat take place from the gCode when doing a print, but I need to load filament if it's not loaded and it needs to be preheated to load filament. Since the filament sensor is off - was off by default in firmware v3.2.1 - it would start printing, after the preheat, with no filament loaded. Is there a way to tell the gCode to ask a user to load filament after it hits the preheat temp?
2). When doing "Load filament", is there anyway I can get the MK3 to automatically move the Z axis up - so the nozzle is not too close to the bed. I have been moving this up manually via the Settings -> Move Axis Z menu and this makes it easier for me to see the filament coming from the nozzle and to wipe/clean it before starting a print.
3). After printing is complete, if I'm around, I normally select "Unload Filament" and remove it. Is this an okay practice to remove it right way if I won't be printing again very soon?
4). When printing some PLA, I'm getting a little bit of stringing. I have lowered my nozzle temp and it seems to have gotten better. Is this the correct solution?
5). I have adjusted my Z offset during the initial calibration and have never messed with the live Z adjustment. Sometimes though I feel that a certain PLA is being "squished" too much and would like to change the Live Z. Is there a way in Prusa Slic3r to tell it to make a Z adjustment/offset for that particular print (since I can also set the temps, etc. for the gCode that will be generated) without doing it via the Live Z menu?
6). Is it okay to clean the smooth steel sheet with Isopropyl alcohol when the bed is still hot? I don't want to ruin it's PEI coating.
Thank you,
Nelson
Re: Success! Few noobie questions
Hi Nelson
1, if you set preheat, you can wait till the extruder is above 190, then load the filament. you don't have to wait for 215C...
then you can go straight to print from SD and let that take over temperature control...
you could use settings / temperature, but its a faff...
2, do you know that if you hold the control button down for about 3 seconds, the printer goes straight to the raise z option?
3, unloading filament is not a problem, and with some filaments you should dothis and put the filament into a moisture controlled environment to prevent or reduce absorbtion of moisture... PVA and Nylon are particularly affected...
PLA and PETG are quite resillient!
4, it's one option, sometimes you may also have to consider retraction distance and retraction speed too... but temperature is a good point tostart
5, it's called Live Z for a reason 😈 , it's easier to adjust manually than guess in advance! otherwise you would need different gcode for different applications of the same model!
6). Hot cleaning with IPA is inefficient, take the build plate off, let it cool and then clean with IPA, it will cool faster off the printer.
dish detergent and water can be used to restore adhesion...dry with paper towel.
regarsd Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
Re: Success! Few noobie questions
WOW, I didn't know or realize about #6, good to know!
I don't recall reading that anywhere?
Rp
Re: Success! Few noobie questions
Hi RP,
when all else fails, try old school!
🙂
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
Re: Success! Few noobie questions
Regarding #3, if I am using PLA or PET, I just leave the filament in the extruder. I cut an inch, or 30mm, above the inlet. I do this to help prevent dust and dirt settling into the extruder.
When it is time to load new filament, I preheat, extrude out a few millimeters, and then do “remove filament.” I have found extruding out some material first helps prevent a clog on removal.
This method is also a nice way to go if you finish a print but the nozzle cools before you have a chance to remove the filament. No need to needlessly heat it up, just snip off some length and go on.
As for the auto-z increase, I’d like to see that too!
Re: Success! Few noobie questions
Hi Nelson
1, if you set preheat, you can wait till the extruder is above 190, then load the filament. you don't have to wait for 215C...
then you can go straight to print from SD and let that take over temperature control...
you could use settings / temperature, but its a faff...
2, do you know that if you hold the control button down for about 3 seconds, the printer goes straight to the raise z option?
3, unloading filament is not a problem, and with some filaments you should dothis and put the filament into a moisture controlled environment to prevent or reduce absorbtion of moisture... PVA and Nylon are particularly affected...
PLA and PETG are quite resillient!
4, it's one option, sometimes you may also have to consider retraction distance and retraction speed too... but temperature is a good point tostart
5, it's called Live Z for a reason 😈 , it's easier to adjust manually than guess in advance! otherwise you would need different gcode for different applications of the same model!
6). Hot cleaning with IPA is inefficient, take the build plate off, let it cool and then clean with IPA, it will cool faster off the printer.
dish detergent and water can be used to restore adhesion...dry with paper towel.
regarsd Joan
Thank you very much Joan! I didn't know about #2 - very helpful! 😀 I will keep playing around to find the best temps and retraction distance/speed for the PLA I'm using, but I'm loving the prints and thankfully no major issues yet (clogs, etc.) I'll also make sure to let the build plate cool down a bit before wiping it with IPA. Thanks again for the tips!
Kind Regards,
Nelson
Re: Success! Few noobie questions
Hi Nelson,
search for temperature tower,
this should find a pre configured file, with sections at different temperatures,
starting too hot, and cooling with say 10mm steps
they usually have an assortment of geometeries at each temperature step, and when you print it, you will probably start off with a stringy print that should improve and then get worse, possibly stopping printing about 190C.
(probably lower temp to be honest...)
if you see the print quality degrading after being good, you may as well stop the print, because you have passed your ideal temperature
regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK