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Newbee Printing with PETG on MK3  

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PaulC
(@paulc-2)
Active Member
Newbee Printing with PETG on MK3

Hi All. First I absolutely love my MK3. It is superb. So my question is that I have ordered some Prusa 1.75mm PETG filament and I just wanted to make sure I was going to prepare and print surface correctly for it. So my questions are:-

Do i need to purchase a different nozzle at all?

Do I still need to use the glue stick even with the flexible smooth PEI sheet?

Do I still follow the instructions to use Windowez as well after each PETG print as well?

Many Thanks

PaulC

Posted : 25/09/2018 4:47 pm
RufusClupea
(@rufusclupea)
Reputable Member
Re: Newbee Printing with PETG on MK3


Do i need to purchase a different nozzle at all?

That depends on what you're planning on printing. If it's replacement parts for the MK3, then the 0.4mm stock nozzle should be fine.

Do I still need to use the glue stick even with the flexible smooth PEI sheet?

Sme people recommend that with PETG, as it can (sometimes) stick too well. Others use tape or other release agents. This is discussed a lot; you can use the advanced search facility, or check the
How do I print this? (Printing help) forum.

That's "MISTER Old Fart" to you!

Posted : 25/09/2018 5:01 pm
Milos V.
(@milos-v)
Prominent Member
Re: Newbee Printing with PETG on MK3

You can use standard nozzle. You do not need any glue stick or similar. Just PETG sticks a bit better on the bed then PLA, so it is good to make the bed a bit more dirty, so the prints are easily to be removed. In this best choice is windows cleaner, which is not as clean as IPA. Maybe not all of them are the same.
Do not worry, printing PETG is as easy as PLA.

Milos

Posted : 25/09/2018 6:09 pm
bobstro
(@bobstro)
Illustrious Member
Re: Newbee Printing with PETG on MK3

I never had issues with PETG so long as I used Windex on the print bed beforehand, or used Joan's "forehead" method (wipe fingers across forehead, then on bed) to loosen adhesion a bit. The only time I got in real trouble was using some high-temp 260C PETG. I do have to use the glue stick for that stuff.

You don't need a hardened nozzle to print normal (unfilled) PETG. You do need to clean you nozzle out when switching from higher-temp PETG to lower-temp PLA to avoid blockages. I'd recommend some cleaning filament and cold pulls whenever switching back.

My notes and disclaimers on 3D printing

and miscellaneous other tech projects
He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan

Posted : 25/09/2018 6:26 pm
Bytor
(@bytor)
Estimable Member
Re: Newbee Printing with PETG on MK3

In addition you will most likely need to change your Z-height offset so as not to "squish" the 1st layer as much as you do with PLA or ABS. I think I changed mine by approximately 0.035 or was it 0.053... I have it written down at home.

Definitely want to use Windex, forehead grease.

BTW, I recently started printing with PTEG (eSun translucent green) and haven't had any problems, although my prints have been simple. I used the default PRUSA PETG settings.

- 1st "printer" TIKO 3D
- 2nd PRUSA i3 MK2S with MMU v1
- 3rd PRUSA i3 MK2S
- 4th PRUSA i3 MK3 with MMU v2- 5th PRUSA i3 MK4 (upgraded from MK3) with MMU v3 (upgraded from…

Posted : 25/09/2018 7:02 pm
JoanTabb
(@joantabb)
Veteran Member Moderator
Re: Newbee Printing with PETG on MK3


I never had issues with PETG so long as I used Windex on the print bed beforehand, or used Joan's "forehead" method (wipe fingers across forehead, then on bed) to loosen adhesion a bit. The only time I got in real trouble was using some high-temp 260C PETG. I do have to use the glue stick for that stuff.

You don't need a hardened nozzle to print normal (unfilled) PETG. You do need to clean you nozzle out when switching from higher-temp PETG to lower-temp PLA to avoid blockages. I'd recommend some cleaning filament and cold pulls whenever switching back.

Yeah, the forehead option is a bit naff if you are wearing foundation or other makeup, but I am guessing that's not a big issue for most folk on here!

regards Joan

I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK

Posted : 25/09/2018 7:12 pm
Area51
(@area51)
Member
Re: Newbee Printing with PETG on MK3

If you plan to use PETG regularly, I will highly recommend switching to a coated nozzle from Micro Swiss - It is sooo much easier to clean and work with.

This nozzle can also be used with more filament types than brass and still has the same good heat transfer as brass.

I use a regular cheap ECO windows cleaner - just wipe the PEI surface dry with a thin layer between each PETG print.

Have a look at my models on Printables.com 😉

Posted : 26/09/2018 1:16 am
PaulC
(@paulc-2)
Active Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Newbee Printing with PETG on MK3

Thanks everyone. A great amount of useful information. But it has now prompted me to ask one more question. Although I have never done it, I am aware of the "Cold Pull" to clean out a nozzle. Is the way to do it described any where for the i3 MK3 at all. Reason I ask is that the filament rollers are spring loaded... Would the cold pull not damage them?

Thanks

PaulC

Posted : 27/09/2018 5:33 pm
Neal
 Neal
(@neal)
Reputable Member
Re: Newbee Printing with PETG on MK3

[quoteThanks everyone. A great amount of useful information. But it has now prompted me to ask one more question. Although I have never done it, I am aware of the "Cold Pull" to clean out a nozzle. Is the way to do it described any where for the i3 MK3 at all. Reason I ask is that the filament rollers are spring loaded... Would the cold pull not damage them?

Thanks

PaulC][/quote]

You need to remove/ open the filament door by releasing the two screws that hold it closed before the cold pull. Do your feeding by hand also.

Neal

Posted : 27/09/2018 5:40 pm
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