MK3S+ Layer Shift X & Y axes - General discussion, announcements and releases

Diem — Mon, 04 Nov 2024 03:36:46 +0000

You had an imperfect seal between the nozzle and the heat break. Pay particular attention to the diagrams at the bottom of this page:

https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/changing-or-replacing-the-nozzle-mk2-5s-mk3s-mk3s_2069

Two possibilities: Either simple mistightening or your nozzle is not a genuine E3D part; there are a lot of 'clone' nozzles on sale that are about a millimetre too short in the thread...

So your initial issue was a confusing compound of two smaller ones.

Cheerio,

RE: MK3S+ Layer Shift X & Y axes

mb — Mon, 04 Nov 2024 00:28:06 +0000

So, I had some 0.6 nozzles on hand, so I decided to give that a try. The first print just started, so no results yet.

BUT, this is the 0.4 nozzle that I replaced. Again, this nozzle has been in service less than two months:

I'm forecasting better results.

And, I ordered the Revo hotend and the Obxidian nozzle.

RE: MK3S+ Layer Shift X & Y axes

mb — Sun, 03 Nov 2024 20:12:17 +0000

Appreciate the advice. That nozzle is pretty new, less than two months on. I've changed them a few a times, and the heater wires once because I wasn't careful.

A hotend upgrade might be worth thinking about...

RE: MK3S+ Layer Shift X & Y axes

Jimbo70 — Sun, 03 Nov 2024 19:43:26 +0000

The nozzle still does not look clean enough to make good prints. This is a problem with brass nozzles, they conduct heat very well but are prone to have filament sticking.

You can try cleaning it more but at about 240 degrees. Use a stiff brush but not a metal brush. Be careful of the very small heater wires that a close.

Other choices - 1 - get a new nozzle (changing nozzles is tricky, you need to read how to do it). 2 - Get a more advanced hot end such as the E3D Revo with the ObXidian hot end. This new hot end is more expensive, but filament does not cling to the surface. Also get the 0.6 nozzle - much faster printing as the same resolution

If you decide on the new hot end for the little extra go all the way and get XS model and the Duet3D board!

I have the E3d Revo and with the ObXidian 0.6 nozzle and it solved many old problems.

RE: MK3S+ Layer Shift X & Y axes

mb — Sun, 03 Nov 2024 16:44:38 +0000

Z Offset calibration:

RE: MK3S+ Layer Shift X & Y axes

mb — Sun, 03 Nov 2024 16:33:26 +0000

Start of print with extrusion multiplier set to 0.98:

Per request, hot end pictures:

I've scrubbed with a wire brush to get as much off as I can.

Just started a full bed first layer test, this is how it started:

Diem — Sun, 03 Nov 2024 06:18:40 +0000

So: blobbing persists after warping is fixed. Please show us your nozzle/hotend assembly from two different angles.

Cheerio,

RE: MK3S+ Layer Shift X & Y axes

mb — Sat, 02 Nov 2024 21:30:54 +0000

Great advice. So far the current run is going without layer shift, though I confess I've paused a few times to clean up blobs and bumps. I'm going to let it finish to see what final quality looks like and/or give it a chance to fail again.

I've been wondering about the extrusion multiplier as a possible fix. Definitely give that a try on the next one.

RE: MK3S+ Layer Shift X & Y axes

Jimbo70 — Sat, 02 Nov 2024 21:04:07 +0000

Be sure to wipe the nozzle to remove filament globs before the print starts, also under the filament header, there is the 'extrusion multiplier' the value reads '1' Decrease the value to '0.98'

reprint the first layer. Do not try to printer further until you have a perfect first layer - smooth, even, no blobs or bumps

RE: MK3S+ Layer Shift X & Y axes

mb — Sat, 02 Nov 2024 17:59:03 +0000

Update: Printing with brim. The first layer is nailed to the bed and I still have this blobbing in multiple passes.

Thoughts?

Thanks.