How to revet i3 mk3s with MMU2 back to just and i3 mk3
Yeah I've had it with the MMU2 its unreliably has beaten us, anyway are the any other parts or processes to revert the i3 mk3s with MMU2 just back to standard mk3s please admin?
Pete.
RE: How to revet i3 mk3s with MMU2 back to just and i3 mk3
Change the heatbreak with the orange dot E3DV6 to a standard 2.0mm solid throat throughout for a start, maybe, and Bondtech upgrades. It will be a complicated mod.
Nigel
Life is keeping interested and excited by knowledge and new things.
RE: How to revet i3 mk3s with MMU2 back to just and i3 mk3
Change the heatbreak with the orange dot E3DV6 to a standard 2.0mm solid throat throughout for a start, maybe, and Bondtech upgrades. It will be a complicated mod.
Say what? You simply unplug and remove the MMU itself, then you have a MK3S. The MMU upgrade changes the position of the IR sensor on the extruder and that is it. The heat break is the same for all MK3 variants with or without the MMU.
@peter-m38 If you upgraded from a MK3 to the MK3S+MMU your IR sensor with the MMU tower is configured differently than the plain MK3S, but it is perfectly usable with the tower configuration. You can, however, print the parts that didn't come with your kit and rebuild the extruder to be a plain MK3S. Functionally there is no difference other than being able to get the idler door out of your way easier.
If you do want the plain MK3S IR configuration, I would agree with @Nigel that you should consider some other upgrades since you'll have to tear down your extruder a fair amount. In addition to a straight through heat break, I'd also recommend looking into one of the "mod" extruder designs (Butterworth, Bear, Skele, etc..) as they offer various improvements over the stock extruder (e.g. better aligned filament path).
RE: How to revet i3 mk3s with MMU2 back to just and i3 mk3
I did exactly this a week or so ago. You will need the different parts for the Mk3S extruder vs the MMU2S version. As far as I recall that will be the filament sensor lever, the steel ball and its housing, the idler door without the chimney, and the extruder top plate. Magnets and fixing too of course. You will have to dismantle the extruder a fair bit but not all the way. The real pain is the IR sensor cable. You will have to release the extruder carefully from its backplate enough to allow that cable to move, then pull it back to the correct place. Also will need to unwrap the cable bundle in order to bring that cable back towards the Einsy.
It's not a huge job but takes a little care and patience. Took me about three hours including recalibrating the printer. I am so happy to have my Mk3S back to its old self.
RE: How to revet i3 mk3s with MMU2 back to just and i3 mk3
I did exactly this a week or so ago. You will need the different parts for the Mk3S extruder vs the MMU2S version.
Need is a strong word here and technically incorrect. If they just want to get the MMU out of the way and back to printing as a MK3S, removing the MMU itself is all they need to do. I did this multiple times while getting my MMU working. You don't even have to redo your Live-Z in that case. That is the fastest and least stress method to get the MMU behind you and have a working printer again.
As I already said above, if they want to remove the tower and make it look like a plain MK3S, then you are correct about the work to be done.
Since there is no difference as far as the printer is concerned I wouldn't bother removing the tower until I had to rebuild the extruder for another reason or if I was passing the MMU on to someone else. If I was going to use it long term like that I would just reinstall the festo and a small piece of PTFE to keep dust/debris out.
RE: How to revet i3 mk3s with MMU2 back to just and i3 mk3
Change the heatbreak with the orange dot E3DV6 to a standard 2.0mm solid throat throughout for a start, maybe, and Bondtech upgrades. It will be a complicated mod.
Say what? You simply unplug and remove the MMU itself, then you have a MK3S. The MMU upgrade changes the position of the IR sensor on the extruder and that is it. The heat break is the same for all MK3 variants with or without the MMU.
@peter-m38 If you upgraded from a MK3 to the MK3S+MMU your IR sensor with the MMU tower is configured differently than the plain MK3S, but it is perfectly usable with the tower configuration. You can, however, print the parts that didn't come with your kit and rebuild the extruder to be a plain MK3S. Functionally there is no difference other than being able to get the idler door out of your way easier.
If you do want the plain MK3S IR configuration, I would agree with @Nigel that you should consider some other upgrades since you'll have to tear down your extruder a fair amount. In addition to a straight through heat break, I'd also recommend looking into one of the "mod" extruder designs (Butterworth, Bear, Skele, etc..) as they offer various improvements over the stock extruder (e.g. better aligned filament path).
Thank you all for the info/suggestions, I'm still a novice and changing the heat break after i lean i bit more might be worth while down the track if i planned to use the MMu2 down the track but i doubt it..
Pete.
RE: How to revet i3 mk3s with MMU2 back to just and i3 mk3
Since there is no difference as far as the printer is concerned
Except of course until the proper Mk3S parts are added and the filament sensor relocated then the filament autoload will not function.
Leaving the MMU2S extruder parts in place without the MMU unit does not revert the printer back to standard Mk3S, which was the actual question that OP asked.
RE: How to revet i3 mk3s with MMU2 back to just and i3 mk3
Since there is no difference as far as the printer is concerned
Except of course until the proper Mk3S parts are added and the filament sensor relocated then the filament autoload will not function.
Leaving the MMU2S extruder parts in place without the MMU unit does not revert the printer back to standard Mk3S, which was the actual question that OP asked.
You are incorrect. The autoload function works perfectly well. There is a variance in when it kicks in (just as the filament enters the gears rather than just before), but it works just fine.
RE: How to revet i3 mk3s with MMU2 back to just and i3 mk3
I think the biggest issue (if it matters to you) is filament runout detection won't be until after has gone past the Bondtechs. That said, I ran for months on the MK3 with sensor turned OFF because it was so unreliable a detector.
If one is ambitious and wants the option to fully convert between single media and MMU2S style sensing (without a full teardown to swap modes), Bunnies have the BNBSX https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3626993
It is however, an advanced project to be undertaken by experienced builders.