Filament sensor actually works?.....NOPE
Well... after "printing" PETG all night, I wake up to a clicking extruder..... the filament sensor( which was on) did not sense the nozzle jam. There was also no recognition of the extruder skipping steps for 7 hours. What is the point of having the sensor if all it does is auto load filament?
This machine constantly pisses me off...... thanks Prusa, you have definitely lost a customer for life and will not be recommended by me to anyone.
Re: Filament sensor actually works?.....NOPE
yeah, i just had a print fail 3 layers from the top because of the sensor, when it "recovered, it was printing 10mm above where it was supposed to, i give up on the sensor until there is some redundancy measures (&&) and may go to the physical lever detection mod as i have those parts on my electronics workbench.
and weâll be saying a big hello to all intelligent life forms everywhere ⦠and to everyone else out there, the secret is to bang the rocks together, guys.
Re: Filament sensor actually works?.....NOPE
This machine constantly pisses me off...... thanks Prusa, you have definitely lost a customer for life and will not be recommended by me to anyone.
I mean really... Can you really find a better machine for under $1000? $2000 even?
Although I too have some issues that are annoying, this machine is 100x better than the solidoodle3 I bought 5 years ago for $700.
Re: Filament sensor actually works?.....NOPE
This machine constantly pisses me off...... thanks Prusa, you have definitely lost a customer for life and will not be recommended by me to anyone.
i wont go that far, this is my first 3d printer, i say im a noob, but have told by some of the 3d printing enthusiasts guests of my business seeing me making models and usable objects while sitting in the lounge were very amazed to hear i had only been doing it for a few months, where they have been doing it for much longer and didint have my level of understanding. yes, i have been having some frustrating issues as of late, but i know the problems, and will be submitting my fix to prusa soon. the clicking for me... that tiny little m3x2 screw in the bondtech gear came loose and got lost until i dust mopped the floor and ran a magnet over the heap tonight, turns out the "spare" in the box of parts was not as good of quality and it was backing itself out too. this is a sometimes vibrating machine, so i kinda expect things to shake loose, the Z axis motors were looser than first build..tightened now..
but, do i regret my purchase, no. i have learned alot and would have been pissed if this had happened on a more unreasonably expensive machine, as i hear they do also.
yes, i am long winded and over explain things, im old, byte me.
and weâll be saying a big hello to all intelligent life forms everywhere ⦠and to everyone else out there, the secret is to bang the rocks together, guys.
Re: Filament sensor actually works?.....NOPE
MK3 and it's bloody smart.
Neal
Re: Filament sensor actually works?.....NOPE
Migamix try some locktite blue on fasteners that loosen ( I also used red for things I do not expect to service like the frame
Re: Filament sensor actually works?.....NOPE
I understand the frustration when things are not working.
FMD printing really needs patience and perseverance when things are not going as expected.
IMHO the MK3 is doing a very good job making it easier, but it's still a young technology and Prusa is a small company that's been very bold to try new things and make them work. They are doing a very good job at that. I was one of the first adopters of the MK3 and got it almost a year ago. It's had it's toohing issues but Prusa kept working on improving them step by step and I have been printing a lot with very good results and few occasional issues.
The forum and chat are brilliant sources for support when needed.
For sure my favorit feature are the automatic bed leveling with temperature compensated PINDA probe and the flex plate. I really don't want to think back of scraping prints off the PEI bed of the MK2...
The filament sensor has been working for me as well, but I think I only needed it once to detect a filament runout.
If you know a better printer for your needs go for it!
If not, hang in there and take good care of your MK3. This technology is tricky but hey, that's the price of being pioneers 🙂
Re: Filament sensor actually works?.....NOPE
Migamix try some locktite blue on fasteners that loosen ( I also used red for things I do not expect to service like the frame
I'm going to get some on standby and do it during my next maintinace check (yes I schedule a day to check my printer). it would mean a full extruder teardown, but frankly I'm looking at how to make the extruder a swappable piece and how it could be built. pogo pins, wire harness, which is more stable. ...rambling again... yeah , loctight, check. my pack of 10 m3x2 screws come in tomorrow. I'll let everyone know if they are worth buying for spares.
and weâll be saying a big hello to all intelligent life forms everywhere ⦠and to everyone else out there, the secret is to bang the rocks together, guys.
Re: Filament sensor actually works?.....NOPE
Migamix try some locktite blue on fasteners that loosen ( I also used red for things I do not expect to service like the frame
I'd be concerned about using loctite (blue or any other color) on the grub screws.
There are stories about how easy they are too strip. You may want to get an easy-out at the same time you buy the blue 242 🙂
Re: Filament sensor actually works?.....NOPE
with the locktite blue (medium hold) and a tiny faster like this grub screw is to not over tighten on installation just the short arm of the allen wrench (and check the end of the wrench is not damaged the cheap ones can be soft) use quality wrenches i use a gunsmith torque handle and apply just 10 inch pounds of force . in my machine shop I have friends bring in things like the grub screw that they think is wrecked but the wrench is the damaged part and only the top visible part of the internal hex is rounded and it can be removed with a quality wrench or even the cheap wrench can be ground back to a clean cross section and tapped deeply into the hex will work.
it is important not to use red permanent locker in fasteners that need to be undone for maintenance this can safely be removed in small sized with heat (the tip of a soldering iron works well) and heat will release the blue as well... you can even heat the end of the allen wrench over a match then quickly use it to remove the screw.