Do you Exclusively or mostly Print with PETG?  

RE: Do you Exclusively or mostly Print with PETG?

I'm quite perplexed as I've just come off an extended stint of running 2 printers heavily for over a month printing with nothing but PETG. Are you referring to the leak out the top of the heater block that occurs when the nozzle is not properly tightened up to the heatbreak when swapping nozzles? That should not differ between PETG and PLA. PETG is definitely more runny at temperature and can work its way into odd parts of the hotend during printing, so if you're referring to build-up, I'd suggest trying adding a silicone sock and/or coated nozzle to your PETG printing repertoire. 

RE: Do you Exclusively or mostly Print with PETG?

@bobstro

yes so i  get a good seal  between the heat break and nozzle (cold pulls are usually vary good) but over time 1-2 weeks it eventually slowly starts to slip loose creating a gap and eventually filament come around the nozzle and down and if i keep printing it would eventually show up at the top of the heat block.

RE: Do you Exclusively or mostly Print with PETG?

If you're doing the final tightening at 285C as recommended, I can't think why PLA would seal any better than PETG. PETG is definitely runnier at higher temps, so maybe that's part of it. Other than making sure the nozzle snug against the heatbreak but not overtightened at 285C is all I can think of. Again, this is not something I've experienced with 2 different heatbreaks and a dozen different nozzles. Sorry I can't offer up more.

RE: Do you Exclusively or mostly Print with PETG?

@bobstro

no prob still gives me an idea.....

i am using the tungsten carbide nozzle not sure if the metel is good with heat that it may be causing an issue....are you using a brass nozzle with your petg?   

i have not used a brass nozzle ever since i got the tungsten one may need to try that 

RE: Do you Exclusively or mostly Print with PETG?

I'm switching often between plain brass, nickel-coated copper and hardened steel. Plus whatever E3D's Nozzle-X is (coated hardened steel I think).

RE: Do you Exclusively or mostly Print with PETG?

@bobstro

sorry for the barrage of questions!!!

out of curiosity do you do cold pull ever time u switch nozzles? and how often did you change nozzles?

and did you print with good brand petg filament or have you had success with the cheaper brand like StrongHero3D? 
https://www.amazon.com/Stronghero3D-Printing-Filament-Accuracy-0-03mm/dp/B07D76Q75L

do you print with one PETG filament spool the whole time (NO unloading maby), or change filament as well?

RE: Do you Exclusively or mostly Print with PETG?

Posted by: @mop

[...] out of curiosity do you do cold pull ever time u switch nozzles? and how often did you change nozzles?

If I have been printing a higher-temp material, I try to. More often, I'll run some cleaning filament through before swapping.

and did you print with good brand petg filament or have you had success with the cheaper brand like StrongHero3D? 
https://www.amazon.com/Stronghero3D-Printing-Filament-Accuracy-0-03mm/dp/B07D76Q75L

Stronghero worked OK when I bought a couple of spools recently. I prefer other brands. I just don't like their filament but it works.

do you print with one PETG filament spool the whole time (NO unloading maby), or change filament as well?

I'll pretty much swap nozzles and filaments depending on what I'm printing. I can be a little lazy sometimes and put something off to avoid a swap, but it really doesn't take long to set things up right.

RE: Do you Exclusively or mostly Print with PETG?

I do a cold pull between nozzle swaps to ensure the nozzle to heat break area is clear and nothing is left which can prevent the two faces tightening against each other.

I have now gone to Nickel plated copper heater block and nickel plated copper nozzles and titanium heat break and there is no need to heat up to 280 Deg C and tighten anymore, just fit when cold, tighten and print.

I was somewhat apprehensive of doing it like this the first time, but according to E3d. there is no need to heat and tighten with this combination, and so far, no leaks. I still cold pull before nozzle swaps though, it only takes a few minutes anyway.

RE: Do you Exclusively or mostly Print with PETG?

@chocki

I have done the same.  Titanium heartbreak  and Nickle plated heatblock make a huge different.  

RE: Do you Exclusively or mostly Print with PETG?

Posted by: @chocki

I do a cold pull between nozzle swaps to ensure the nozzle to heat break area is clear and nothing is left which can prevent the two faces tightening against each other.

I have now gone to Nickel plated copper heater block and nickel plated copper nozzles and titanium heat break and there is no need to heat up to 280 Deg C and tighten anymore, just fit when cold, tighten and print.

I was somewhat apprehensive of doing it like this the first time, but according to E3d. there is no need to heat and tighten with this combination, and so far, no leaks. I still cold pull before nozzle swaps though, it only takes a few minutes anyway.

Posted by: @charles-h13

@chocki

I have done the same.  Titanium heartbreak  and Nickle plated heatblock make a huge different.  

i had talk to e3d few weeks back regarding the nickel copper heat block they implied hot tightening had to be done at all times.

so you guys just hand/cold tighten the nickel copper block with titanium heat break? or you still have to use a torque wrench (3Nm) but cold not hot?

can you use a brass nozzle or do you have to use a nickel copper nozzle?

can you use a tungsten carbide nozzle and not have to hot tighten?

RE: Do you Exclusively or mostly Print with PETG?

Posted by: @mop

Posted by: @chocki

I do a cold pull between nozzle swaps to ensure the nozzle to heat break area is clear and nothing is left which can prevent the two faces tightening against each other.

I have now gone to Nickel plated copper heater block and nickel plated copper nozzles and titanium heat break and there is no need to heat up to 280 Deg C and tighten anymore, just fit when cold, tighten and print.

I was somewhat apprehensive of doing it like this the first time, but according to E3d. there is no need to heat and tighten with this combination, and so far, no leaks. I still cold pull before nozzle swaps though, it only takes a few minutes anyway.

Posted by: @charles-h13

@chocki

I have done the same.  Titanium heartbreak  and Nickle plated heatblock make a huge different.  

i had talk to e3d few weeks back regarding the nickel copper heat block they implied hot tightening had to be done at all times.

so you guys just hand/cold tighten the nickel copper block with titanium heat break? or you still have to use a torque wrench (3Nm) but cold not hot?

can you use a brass nozzle or do you have to use a nickel copper nozzle?

can you use a tungsten carbide nozzle and not have to hot tighten?

I still use brass nozzles on 2 of my 4 printers.  When am I have used up my brass nozzles, I will use:

1. M2 by Microswiss
2. Nozzle X by e3D
3. Tungsten Nozzles
4. Hardened steel nozzles
5. Vanadium Nozzle

I prefer #2 right now because of the best availability and function.  

RE: Do you Exclusively or mostly Print with PETG?

I tighten when cold and that's it, but only with a nickel plated copper heat block and nickel plated copper nozzles.

It used to state that since they are both the same material, there was no need to hot tighten. Looks like they have dropped this bit from the site.

It's easy enough to hot tighten anyway and I used to do it with the aluminium block.

For peace of mind, your better off carrying out the hot tightening procedure, better safe than sorry.