Re: Whistle bridging problem
Was just debugging the same issue on my newly built MK3 when using the default Gcode settings and silver PLA that was shipped with the kit.
( https://imgur.com/a/ffXaUAR )
Spoke with support through chat for a bit and discussed:
- PID Calibration
- Lowering print speed (default seems to be 100 for entire print)
- Lowering extruder temp
- Testing print fan operation (should spin close to 4000 rpm at 100%)
What ultimately worked for me after trial and error with the above was:
- Lower extruder temp to 210C
- Increase bed temp to 65C (print began pulling off PC sheet during some tests)
- Lower live Z
Second image in Imgur is final result.
Re: Whistle bridging problem
Thanks. Good to know I'm not the only one with problems. I did seems to have success one time by adjusting the Z height, but couldn't replicate it. To be honest though, the whistle barely works anyway. Other things seem to print fine so I've basically just given up on the whistle.
Re: Whistle bridging problem
I used the whistle as the very first print after building the MK3s kit and also had exactly the same problem.
A friend of mine, who assisted me with the build and who has some years and some thousands of hours of printing experience,
was quite surprised by the enormous directional air flow from the print fan.
One of our ideas is that the air flow creates turbolences when hitting the whistle that are strong enough to prevent the bridging.
Re: Whistle bridging problem
Could this be caused by a mismatch of firmware between the provided Gcode on the SD card the version you updated to before you used the printer?
Re: Whistle bridging problem
I'm on a just-assembled MK3S and am getting the exact same bridging issues on the whistle.
I removed some of it with pliers before taking this photo, but there's still some visible.
Re: Whistle bridging problem
I had the exact same problem when using the gcode file from the SD card that came with my printer. But when I sliced the whistle myself in Slic3r PE, just using the default settings ("0.15mm quality" I think), it prints fine. One difference I can see is that the gcode file from the SD card has the temperature set to 215 degrees for the entire print, while the one I sliced myself is set to 215 for the first layer and 210 for the rest of the print.
It's really unfortunate that this is the first file that many people try to print on their newly assembled printers (I chose it because it only takes half an hour), only to see it fail and wonder if they did something wrong. Perhaps it could be updated with a differently sliced version that's less likely to have the bridging problems?
Re: Whistle bridging problem
That's a strange one 😕
I'm new to 3D printing and built my first printer mk3s 3 weeks ago.
First print was the whistle.
While the first layer wasn't well calibrated and the x belt was way to soft, the print still came out pretty well.
With a perfect overhang / bridging!
I've tuned everything to perfection meanwhile and i am getting amazing prints.
Printed the whistle again today to compare against my first print..
Perfect first layer, perfect layers without any shifting whatsoever.
But guess what's failing now?
😮
RE: Whistle bridging problem
I'm getting the exact same issues on my mk3s with the whistle which is a shame as the outside of the whistle looks SO nice.
I'm going to try slicing the whistle myself and seeing if there's a difference
RE: Whistle bridging problem
When you slice it yourself, make sure Detect Bridging Perimeters is enabled and Bridging Angle is set to 90.
