RE: Unable to stop stringing
Strange - I'm finding a benchy printed on my newly built MK3S has a few wisps of "stringiness", where my old and trusted MK1 (1.75) is rock solid.
I'm sure there's lots of potential reasons (e.g. setup/teething problems) but I didn't expect the MK1 to hold up so well.
It might be interesting to compare settings between the two printers. I don't have any experience with the Mk1, so can only make suggestions for the Mk3S. Post some pics if you're willing. It would be good to see an old workhorse still at it.
Those fine, gossamer threads are common. You can just ignore them during printing and give them a pass with a heat gun. I found getting my extrusion multiplier and filament diameters set properly eliminated most of that stringing. If it starts stringing after previous good results, consider possible moisture absorption by your filament and dry it before doing anything too dramatic. I've also had a nozzle damaged by overly-vigorous needle use drive me nuts chasing stringing. Have you compared the retraction related settings of the two printers? Z lift can contribute to fine stringing.
I was going to sell the Mk1 , but I'm now conflicted - There appears to be little printing improvement (other than a bendy plate)
Prusas seem to be the Toyotas of 3D printers. They retain value well and will keep ticking with a bit of maintenance. If it's working, I wouldn't be in a hurry to sell unless you can recoup significant costs or just need the space. If nothing else, place it on a shelf behind glass with an "Emergency 3D Printer" sign.
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He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan
RE: Unable to stop stringing
@bobstro
Grey is MK1
Yellow is MK3S
I need to swap the filaments and retest then both (Also, the colour yellow isn't picked up well by the camera)
RE: Unable to stop stringing
@bobstro
Grey is MK1
Yellow is MK3S
I need to swap the filaments and retest then both (Also, the colour yellow isn't picked up well by the camera)
(N.B. This is after I replaced all bearings in the MK1)
I bought the MK1 for £200 last year - I've replaced bearings and the fan inside the power supply.
It seems that the first layer is better on a Mk1 (it must be because of the pritt stick glue?), but maybe I need to play with the Z value a bit more - I've got it on 0.735 atm
RE: Unable to stop stringing
I know this is an old post but I cannot tell you how much this little bit of advice helped! I scoured the internet for solutions and it was all the same advice. One person regurgitating the advice of another. I went from having no stringing at all on PLA and no to faint stringing with PETG to every print looking like a dense spiderweb. In my case I used 2500 grit sandpaper to strop the nozzle but it solved my stringing issues.